Help with dating antique military headgear - 18th C grenadier mitre cap

Discussion in 'PUBLIC Vintage Fashion Q & A' started by Michael Prictor, Mar 18, 2017 at 8:12 PM.

  1. Michael Prictor

    Michael Prictor Registered Guest

    Hello,

    I have recently acquired an antique British grenadier mitre cap. Very few of these have survived, and most of the dozen or so survivors are elaborately embroidered officers caps rather than basic soldiers caps, so there are no real references other than 18th century paintings.

    I have just read the VFG guide on dating fabrics, and thought I would try this approach - in particular, see if anyone can help with with the fabric types, lace patterns, embroidery methods etc as a means to assess the age.

    Based on the pattern and configuration, the cap would date to between 1727-1751. Do the fabric patterns, lace patterns, construction methods silk embroidery methods etc support this dating?

    The cap was restored several years ago and some of the wool lace and the yellow soutache were too far deteriorated to be restored so were replaced. I have all of the the conserved items that were removed, including all the individual Cotten and silk stitches.


    Mike



    Here are photos of the mitre cap in restored condition:



    FRONT

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    FRONT LEFT

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    FULL LEFT

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    ¾ LEFT

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    REAR

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    ¾ RIGHT

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    FULL RIGHT

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    ¼ RIGHT

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  2. Michael Prictor

    Michael Prictor Registered Guest

  3. Michael Prictor

    Michael Prictor Registered Guest

    Here are the items the conservator removed from the cap. The lace pattern and style should be recognisable.

    CONSERVED ARTEFACTS FROM RESTORATION

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    REGIMENTAL WOOL LACE

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    ORIGINAL LEMON COLOURED SOUTACHE FROM GARTER

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    SOUTACHE

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    REGIMENTAL LACE – INSIDE (PROTECTED) FACE

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    REGIMENTAL LACE OUTER (EXPOSED) FACE

    [​IMG]


    CONSERVED STITCHES

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    19th CENTURY COTTON AND CORK LINER COMPONENTS. This liner was fitted to the cap prior to the restoration, but the conservator assessed that it was added in the latter half of 19th century when the original straw board and cane frame had deteriorated. This liner in turn has badly deteriorated, and the cork stiffener has fallen apart. I assess that, compared to the many other 19th century uniforms etc that I have in my collection, the cotton materials in this liner date to early-mid 19th C. I would be interested in any opinions on the machine stitching pattern in this liner.

    [​IMG]



    19th C COTTON LINER

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    COTTON LINER

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    19th C COTTON SATEEN AND CORK STIFFENER FROM FRONT OF CAP

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  4. amandainvermont

    amandainvermont Trade Member

    Wonderful photos and I hope someone will be along soon to help you. I'm guessing you know a lot more about grenadiers than any of us - but when I recently listed some vintage militaria I got a lot of help from forums dealing specifically with that area. Of course this cap goes WAY back, and you may well be a member of this forum - if not, perhaps they can help.

    http://www.twcenter.net/forums/show...ing-Bearskins-back-for-the-British-Grenadiers
     
  5. Michael Prictor

    Michael Prictor Registered Guest

    Amanda,

    I may know a more about grenadiers and militaria, but I bet there are a bunch of people here who know more about 18th Century wool weaving methods, lace making techniques, silk embroidery processes, early sewing machine stitch patterns etc than I do! That is the sort of advice and opinion I am looking for.

    Thanks,

    Mike
     
    Last edited: Mar 19, 2017 at 6:30 PM
  6. Michael Prictor

    Michael Prictor Registered Guest

    Any opinions on the weaving and embroidery techniques?
     

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