Hi all, I’ve recently bought this Saint Laurent suit at a vintage store, however it’s missing its care labels from both separates. I was wondering if anyone could speculate as to the style or material of this suit, as I’m having difficulty finding anything similar for reference Have already determined from label resources that it is likely early 80’s Also if anyone had any advice as to how to go about seeking authentication it would be much appreciated. I’m based on Melbourne, Australia- and having trouble finding anyone that offers such services Thanks in advance
it's probably thin wool. most of ysl pieces like this are made from wool with viscose lining. lots of them don't have care labels because they were huge and from paper like fabric, so ppl either cut them off or they could detach in the cleaning
It looks like gabardine, likely wool. I do not see 80s, unless maybe very early. I get a 70s vibe from the styling. But I am not at all sure.
I agree that it looks more like 70s than 80s... If there's anywhere with an unfinished fabric edge that you could take a little snip off, you could do a burn test: https://vintagefashionguild.org/determining-fiber/ Regarding authentication, Nicole @Circa Vintage may have an idea?
Hi Mayia, and welcome to the forums. I concur with Katarzyna and Barbara in that it looks like a wool gabardine. The colour was popular in the late '70s-early '80s but the lapels look very wide for that time so it might be further into the mid '80s. The jacket seems very boxy for the slip and small skirt. I'm in Melbourne, Australia so perhaps I can help you: what sort of authentication are you after?
Thanks everyone for your help! I took @Midge 's advice and did a burn test. It certainly appears to be a woollen fiber Nicole @Circa Vintage I’m looking to resell this, as the skirt is just that bit small for me however I obviously don’t want to resell a knockoff unknowingly! I’m an absolute novice when it comes to vintage wear and it’s resale, but there were a few things that got me concerned, being; A) lack of care labels (which has now been given likely cause) B) Sizing seems quite strange to me! Jacket is labelled a 36, but is quite oversized, however the skirt (labelled 42) is as stated, a bit small on me (a UK12) That being said, it was purchased from a vintage dealer that I’d consider quite reputable Just not really sure where to start! If you had any further advice I’d be very grateful
Mayia, there are a few things to consider here: it sounds like there could be some issues regarding authenticity or alterations, from the sounds of the size labels which don't match the sizes. Perhaps the labels have been added (and I would expect a YSL to have more labels, as you've identified). if there is a discrepancy in size between the two pieces, that affects its saleability as most suit buyers seek a suit of the same size. we can't discuss values here, but if you bought it from a reputable local vintage shop it's likely that you paid a fair price already. Designer labels like YSL widely licenced their brand during the '80s and not all garments are of equal quality or demand. What it's worth, of course, is what someone will pay for it so if you look for similar items online (closed auctions as they're a better determinate of value than sale listings), you can usually make an estimate. If you wish to enter the market as a reseller, it's best to thoroughly research both what you're selling and who and where will be most interested in your wares. I hope that helps and you're welcome to contact me to discuss further if you like, including my professional services as appraiser or advisor.
French sizes are one size or half a size smaller. French 36, would be 34. 42 a 40. etc. when it comes to authenticity. I've seen less exciting "rive gauche" from the 80s, and way better quality and design pieces from "variation" line. so you never know. to me there is one thing by which I could recognise ysl blazer with my eyes closed - shoulder pads. they had very specific shoulder pads, unlike other brands. no foam, thin, but heavy. and they give the shoulders a specific shape. they are very straight and horizontal. my other thought is. it could be likely that someone (because this is an 80s suit), bought different size blazer and skirt. the blazer probably was intentionally very oversize. so someone while buying rescaled the item, by buying a smaller blazer. also i suggest dry cleaning it and putting it on a form, it could change your perception on how it is made and cut. and other thing, check the sign on the zipper
@Katarzyna The shoulder pads are, as you've suggested, quite thin but sturdy without being spongey. As for the pad shape, I can't really sure but the form appears comparable to others I've found in my research online. Zippers also match those that I've seen online. I suppose I'll need to take it in for some form of assessment to be truly sure Thankyou!
I agree... the size label thing is weird. They do run small though - and you have to consider vintage sizes being smaller than today's anyway. I have a pair of late 80s or early 90s Rive Gauche shorts, size 38, in today's size I'm 34 to 36, depending on brand, and they are very small on me, very small in the waist. The blouse I have is probably late 70s or early 80s and a size 40, roomy but not oversize on me. The care label may have been cut off - I checked my pieces: The shorts: The blouse - must have had a similar care label sown on to the brand label, but that was cut off by a previous owner. There's a remnant left sticking out on the left side and on the back plus there is a line of stichting along the bottom of the brand label with which that remnant is attached:
@Midge , how interesting. I'm starting to think the odd sizing is maybe just common with these pieces I've taken a photo with the suit on if anyone is interested to see it on a form as @Katarzyna suggested Dont mind the pulling on the skirt- as mentioned it's not a great fit so isnt zipped fully/buttoned :'(
It looks safari-esque, they made a lot of this around the late 70s early 80s period. I think the skirt has been taken up, perhaps show us a picture of the hem from the inside? I also think it's supposed to be more of an oversized/mannish fit, so that 36 sizing may have been for a modern equivalent of a uk 6 (Us 10). What I have noticed with vintage sizing (depending on era) for the 60s-70s and some early 80s items is that the sizes tend to come up one size smaller two sizes smaller on the waist and one size smaller on the bust. For eg a vintage size 38 may fit as a modern 36 on bust but a 34 on hips, some vintage labels will even print the bust and waist size, I have seen it on many vintage pieces.. Hope that makes sense. A couple of pictures below https://i.pinimg.com/originals/b5/cd/90/b5cd9047d33c31d41b30700c6fc52246.jpg https://th.bing.com/th/id/R71ad1c8f...qFejy/4i9HZomqoF3QhW8beHpWg=&risl=&pid=ImgRaw
Oh also, I think the fabric/care label was directly beneath the main label, i can even see a couple of threads left over.
