Confusing Harris Tweed (All Wool Loomed in England) Jacket

Hello everyone,
I understand from the great resource entry that the production of the tweed would be from the Hebrides, but this jacket is confusing. There is a Harris Tweed Label and a tacked on All Wool Loomed in England still on the sleeve. i've searched thoroughly and see no other labels
Any thoughts?
Thanks alot,
Lauren

 

Hello, can you please confirm the location of the Harris Tweed label? It seems like it's been sewn in upside down in the inside of the lining: which is bizarre. Are you sure that there aren't any other labels? They should be on the inside right hand side near or inside the pocket. There should be tailor/manufacturer and perhaps size and country of origin.

 

I think it's right side up on the upper back lining, Nicole.

I've seen that label placement on older jackets. There are two labels in the resource with the "facsimile of the trademark...," and they date to the 40s. I'm not sure if that is when yours is from but I suspect it is around that time period or into the 50s.

Nice NOS find.

 

Yes, it's right side up on the upper back half of the lining. The puzzling thing is there are no more labels and the "All Wool Loomed in England" is contradictory I would think as the Harris Tweed designation is for the Hebrides?

 

So on Deborahs advice I sought the help of the Harris Tweed Authority who very promptly got back to me (within a few hours!) They said they couldn't date it precisely but it was very likely a label from the 1960s and that the wool loomed in England label was most certainly added on at some point by someone and should be removed before selling!

 

Before you go listing it as Harris Tweed....does the fascimile mentioned on the HT label appear stamped on the cloth? As rather unusually the minimal lining on this garment means you would be able to see it. You may have to search under the lining.
Did you show the HTA a photo of the complete lining as it is sewn in or just what we can see here?
Can you clarify please did they confirm the jacket was HT or merely the label?

The label on the sleeve (often a brand label) is a bit of a 'cache' amongst purveyors of high end menswear. It is sewn onto new garments before sale and meant to be removed upon purchase, however I have heard of buyers leaving them on in order to advertise the status of what they were wearing (a bit like the vintage tradition of the upside down label so other dinner guests could admire your clothing taste as they hung over the back of a chair)

 

@Pinkcoke Melanie, I'm not sure I understand what you mean by the facsimile appearing stamped on the cloth. I sent a photo of the Harris orb label and a photo of the jacket held open to show the lining.....here's what I was sent:


Hello Lauren,

Thank you for your e-mail.

Unfortunately, we would not be able to give you an exact date for this type of label. However, it's somewhat likely that the label was issued sometime around the 1960s.



The 'All Wool' label looks like it has been added on to the jacket at a later date, or by a separate party. We would have to ask that it be removed before you sell it on Lauren, as it is a clear misrepresentation of what Harris Tweed is - which, you are absolutely correct about, has to be dyed, spun and hand woven in the Outer Hebrides, in accordance with the 1993 Act of Parliament.



I'm very sorry I cannot help you further than this, Lauren. Should you have any further questions, please do not hesitate to contact again.



Kind regards

Jane

 

Hmm They don't mention the jacket really, only the label - which is their domain after all - the manufacturer would have made the jacket.

The 'facimile' would be like a ink stamped mark of the orb logo on the inside of the jacket directly on the tweed fabric. It's a way of marking the cloth as genuine Harris Tweed. If your jacket doesn't have this mark, it may be that the All Wool label was original and the HT not.
I had wondered if the lining was a replacement, but have just noticed the seam binding appears to be made of the same fabric, which would rule that out. Can you confirm this?

Has anyone here ever seen the fascimile mark on a HT garment? I would have to open the lining of one of mine to see it. It would be good to know if it is located somewhere in particular or just where ever it ended up according to use of the fabric...

 

So would we expect to see the ink stamped orb anywhere on the tweed?

 

As far as I know on the inside yes, you sometimes get a similar mark (although only once) on a bolt of cloth when it's sold which typically has the manufacturer's mark on it.