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Dating a Liberty House Hawaiian Shirt

Discussion in 'PUBLIC Vintage Fashion - Ask Questions Get Answers' started by Trish, Oct 16, 2011.

  1. Trish

    Trish Registered Guest

    Hi folks,

    Thanks in advance for your expertise. I purchased this shirt in a Hawaiian thrift store last year. I didn't see a Liberty House label in the archives that matched this--can you recommend a date?

    Also, I need help with the fabric. It is very light weight, rustles a bit when scrunched, but doesn't leave wrinkles, and is slightly slubby on the horizontal. The selvage edge reads: (c) THC HAWAIIAN TEXTILES X 10367.

    Trish

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  2. The Vintage Merchant

    The Vintage Merchant Administrator Staff Member

  3. Trish

    Trish Registered Guest

    I think the pics were too large before. I hope you can see them now!
    P1030878small.jpg
    P1030910small.jpg
    P1030874small.jpg
     
  4. Great shirt! Could be the late 1940s or early 50s...the shirt pocket lines up perfectly with the shirt pattern. Since this technique uses extra fabric, it is more expensive to produce and is no longer done this way.
     
  5. northstarvintage

    northstarvintage Administrator Staff Member

  6. Ookoo

    Ookoo Registered Guest

    I've been told that you can also use the button holes as a clue. Up until the 1960's, button holes were horizontal. Then as shirt-making became more automated, they were made vertical because it was faster.
     
  7. The Vintage Merchant

    The Vintage Merchant Administrator Staff Member

    that label looks much more modern than 40s or 50s to me...i'm leaning more 70s or even earlier on this from what i can see.
     
  8. poppysvintageclothing

    poppysvintageclothing VFG Board Member Staff Member VFG Past President

    I agree with Mary on this one, I see the 1970s.
     
  9. joules

    joules VFG Member

    I am also fully in the Mary and Mary Jane camp with this shirt. It is 70s to 80s.
     
  10. Trish

    Trish Registered Guest

    Thanks so much--I appreciate the expertise!
    Trish
     
  11. StelmaDesigns

    StelmaDesigns Alumni +

    Yes, this is a late 70's or 80's shirt. I really think this is firmly 80's as I have seen this Gauguin print in an 80's Aloha dress. It is correct that a pattern matched pocket takes much more fabric and is a sign of a quality Hawaiian Aloha shirt however, you will see this even today. Silk Hawaiian shirts seemed to make a comeback later as well in higher end shirts and that label is for sure not an older one. Hard for me to tell on the fabric but is sure looks to me like a raw silk. Does it feel like silk to you? Does it have a nice weighty hand for the weight that it is?

    Julia

    PS, just had to add what a beautiful shirt you have there!
     
  12. StelmaDesigns

    StelmaDesigns Alumni +

    OK, I did a little searching and on one of my fav. Hawaiian shirt collector sites I found a 70's polyester Gauguin shirt print. I still think your shirt is a 80's version, but you all can disagree with me if you like ;o)

    http:// www.vintagehawaiianshirt.net/cott3im41.htm (Break after the double slashes)

    If it is silk that makes me thing older, the reason being, lots of photo print shirts were popular in the 70's in silky polyester but this one just looks like the later versions I have seen.

    Julia
     
  13. Trish

    Trish Registered Guest

    Thanks Julia! I found most everyone who was selling the Oceana label marked it as the 1970s.

    So interesting...found the same shirt listed on eBay. Tag says Made in Hawaii for Ross Sutherland. I can't read the material tag, but seller has it listed as polyester. I can't tell if it has the same slubbing as mine, but the reverse side looks the same. Funny, how the same shirt would get 2 (or more?) different brand labels. This seller has the original buttons on his shirt. I only had two left on my shirt, so I went ahead and replaced them. I know that impacts value, so I set my price at about half of what's listed on eBay.
     
  14. StelmaDesigns

    StelmaDesigns Alumni +

    Yes, I also saw those shirts and the Hana Shirt Company one with that label does look older than yours but again, I could be mistaken. Its your fabric as well that is a clue. The 70's ones are polyester in that print from what I have seen and the 80's rayon. I see the textured fabric shirts from the 80's, such as the reverse weaves and newer silks and even into the 90s. Also, notice the slightly larger collar on that 70's shirt. 80s shirts tend to run even a little larger for their marked size. Were your buttons originally coconut? Because of the age of your shirt, I really do not think replacement buttons would effect the value quite so much. Your shirt really looks like raw silk or could it be rayon? Have you figured that one out? I have never seen a textured polyester, but there is always a first!

    Anyone else into Hawaiian shirts that want to add anything here? Anyone else think this is not 80's but 70's?

    Oh, by the way, can you give me a the links to some Oceana label shirts? I found a reverse fabric shirt that is 80s with that label. That would help me learn too! I guess I will search eBay to see some?

    Thanks!

    Julia
     
  15. Trish

    Trish Registered Guest

    P1030877small.jpg
    Here's another pic of mine--it has the same points as the one being sold by the Hana Shirt Co who describe their shirt as having a "collar with invisible stitching, loop and button closure at the neckline & a matching fabric chest pocket"
     
  16. joules

    joules VFG Member

    I'm afraid there is some misdating happening in some of those listings you posted, sorry to say.
    The collar of yours says 70s to me. I have seen these shirts over the years. It's nice!
     
  17. StelmaDesigns

    StelmaDesigns Alumni +

    You know, I just can't say any more than I have so it will be up to you to decide in the end since you have the shirt in front of you. The last two links are for sure older shirts and the tags are older. The pull over is also older but I have no idea of this label and how long it was used. Also reverse fabric prints did start in the 60's I believe but they were made into the 80's as far as I have seen. Good job on the research. I wish I could help narrow it down for you, but without benefit of having the actual shirt in my hands I just can't!

    Julia
     
  18. StelmaDesigns

    StelmaDesigns Alumni +

    Julie is right, and just because you see sellers listing things as 70's doesn't mean they know what they are talking about, and that goes for all vintage stuff on line. Sometime folks see a vintage item listed as such and such a date and then perpetuate that date and so on. Popular prints are reissued from time to time. Sounds like I am the only one who thinks it's 80's so maybe go with the general consensus ;o)

    Julia
     
  19. StelmaDesigns

    StelmaDesigns Alumni +

    OK, hows this for more information? Wouldn't you know they don't even have the label we are trying to date, lol! (break before // )

    http: //themohs.org/Liberty_House.html
     
  20. Trish

    Trish Registered Guest

    Thanks so much for the sleuthing. It does look like raw silk, but it feels like acetate. I'll err on the conservative side and revise my listing to say 70-80s. I don't want to perpetuate any myths--that's why I come here in the first place!
    Thanks again,
    Trish
     

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