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Fabric Friday: Piqué

Discussion in 'PUBLIC Workshops - specialty vintage topics' started by denisebrain, Apr 15, 2022.

  1. denisebrain

    denisebrain VFG Vice President Staff Member VFG Past President

    Last week I talked about warp piqué and weft piqué. How about all the rest of the piqués? So glad you asked!


    But first, the larger category these fit under. In the Fabric “Looks Like” categorization method I used for the Fabric Resource, these are all among the Woven pattern fabrics: even - geometric - checked.

    Dobby weave

    Dobby is a type of decorative weave produced by a special attachment on a loom. The characteristic dobby patterns are small, geometric, straight-edged and regular in their repeat.

    Dobby is also the name of the attachment which allows additional yarns to be woven into a fabric by controlling the action of a number of harnesses, creating dobby weave fabric. Dobby may also refer to a loom with the dobby attachment.

    Compare dobby to jacquard weave, which is characterized by large-scale and curving patterns.

    Dobby weave printed cotton.
    _big_vintagefashion-new_37261.jpg

    Piqué


    A group of fabrics with small, distinct dobby woven designs that appear subtly padded or embossed. Piqué is French for “quilted,” and from the look of their tiny patterns, piqués could have been quilted by mice! The fabrics in this group have distinctly different face and reverse sides. Most are cotton or cotton blends.

    Uses: Dresses, blouses, sportswear, children’s clothing, draperies

    Along with all the fabrics below, this is a cotton piqué
    _big_vintagefashion-new_87678.jpg

    I'm sure we've all seen our share of white or printed white cotton piqué summer dresses and blouses! The fabric keeps you cooler than some. This is one my previously-solds.
    Screen Shot 2022-04-15 at 1.46.01 PM.png

    Bedford cord

    In the piqué family but of heavier weight, bedford cord features vertical cords usually padded with stuffer yarns. It may be made of cotton or cotton blends—sometimes wool—or with a wool face and a cotton back. It is asserted that the fabric comes from New Bedford, Massachusetts (it had a thriving late 19th to early 20th century textile industry), hence its name.

    Uses: Riding habits, uniforms, slacks, suits, coats

    This cotton example came from an antique pair of trousers. The cords may be much narrower. The looks is like corduroy without the velvety component.
    _big_vintagefashion-new_37833.jpg

    Birdseye piqué

    One of the piqué fabrics, made in cotton or cotton blends and with a small, distinct raised pattern on its face. Birdseye piqué’s pattern is a tiny diamond shape, reminiscent of a bird’s eye. A similar but somewhat larger oval pattern is called bullseye piqué.

    Also written bird’s-eye piqué, bird’s eye piqué.

    Uses: Dresses, blouses, sportswear, children’s clothing
    _big_vintagefashion-new_117223.jpg

    Bullseye piqué

    A lot like birdseye, only bigger!
    _big_vintagefashionguild_95911.jpg

    Honeycomb

    Honeycomb is a fabric that resembles a real honeycomb in having raised ridges and hollows. It is related to all the other fabrics with small dobby-woven textures, and is very similar to waffle cloth.

    This is an example of cotton honeycomb that I found on Etsy (shop seller roxanesheirlooms)
    Screen-Shot-2022-04-15-at-2.01.10-PM.jpg

    Huckaback

    Dobby woven and with a small textured pattern, huckaback is an absorbent fabric, usually of cotton and in narrow widths ideal for hand towels. It may have a pattern or word (think hotel name) woven into one end. Huckaback’s texture also makes a good ground for embroidery. It is related to all the other fabrics with small dobby-woven textures.

    Use: Hand towels
    _big_vintagefashion-new_32033.jpg

    Here's an example of a hand-embroidered cotton huckaback hand towel, found on Etsy (seller name RoomEnough)
    Screen Shot 2022-04-15 at 2.03.48 PM.png

    Waffle cloth

    A dobby weave cotton fabric with a small, waffle-like texture of raised squares woven into the material. Waffle cloth is synonymous with waffle piqué, and is related to all the other fabrics with small dobby-woven textures.

    Cotton piqué waffle cloth (with an undeniably cool print)
    _big_vintagefashion-new_46906.jpg


    There's also a group of knits that use similar terms but are not constructed the same way ...just to keep things interesting. :wacko:

    Any thoughts on the piqués? Have I piqued your interest?
     

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