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Fabric Friday: Ultrasuede

Discussion in 'PUBLIC Workshops - specialty vintage topics' started by denisebrain, Feb 11, 2022.

  1. denisebrain

    denisebrain VFG Vice President Staff Member VFG Past President

    In 1970, a relatively expensive new fabric came into being, and was soon being cut into tastefully stylish clothing. Vintage items of Ultrasuede so often date from the 1970s, when designers and the public took a liking to its consistency, drape (you can easily tie a bow of it), dye- and printability and easy care. The title of the 2010 film Ultrasuede: In Search of Halston pretty neatly summarizes the the amalgam of decade, fabric and one designer particularly fond of the material.

    Trademarked in 1970 by Toray Industries, Ultrasuede is a nonwoven fabric resembling suede. It is made of polyester, non-fibrous urethane and synthetic resins. It is created in a process involving needle punching microfibers into a felt-like ground. It is stain-resistant, and machine washable.

    A close up:
    _big_vintagefashion-new_109916.jpg

    Halston allegedly saw Issey Miyake wearing Ultrasuede in Paris in 1971. To say he fell for it would be an understatement. In 1972, the master of elegant simplicity designed an Ultrasuede shirtdress, perhaps his greatest success, and it became an American sportswear icon.

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    Halston, his Halstonettes and a fair bit of Ultrasuede. Photo: Duane Michals/WWD

    From The Museum at FIT:
    82.193.4_ND_03_1024.jpg
    From The MET:
    Screen Shot 2022-02-11 at 3.20.46 PM.png

    Although it's quite printable, the fabric wasn't often shown printed, maybe because of its connection to suede.

    I sold this early 70s printed Ultrasuede shirtdress (no label) some time ago:
    Screen-Shot-2022-02-11-at-2.55.30-PM.jpg Screen Shot 2022-02-11 at 3.26.51 PM.png


    When I was young, women spoke of this fabric with reverence. I remember it seemed about as costly as anything you could buy on a bolt. My mother made an Ultrasuede coat for herself in dusty blue. Although I didn't care for the fabric then, I kind of wish I had that coat now...
     
  2. Vintagiality

    Vintagiality VFG Treasurer Staff Member

  3. Distantdetails

    Distantdetails Administrator

    I recently found a Halston mens coat in Ultrasuede. It brought back memories of my mom wearing a belted Ultrasuede dress. I thought she look fab!

    Thank you for the explanation about how it is made!
     
  4. I sure remember the rage for Ultrasuede! My Mother had several things that were made from this fabric that she loved. Great read, Maggie. Thanks for your Fabric Friday posts. They are always so informative.
     
  5. Jonathan

    Jonathan VFG Member

    Beth Levine (of Herbert Levine Shoe Co.) told me when I was interviewing her, that she had been sent a test sample of ultrasuede for her to experiment with for ways to use it in the shoe industry. She decided that it was too flimsy for shoe manufacturing but she gave Roy Halston Frowick, who she had met and known through Bergdorfs, some of the material to work with... so that's another story about how Halston came to use ultrasuede in his early collections.
     
  6. poppysvintageclothing

    poppysvintageclothing VFG Board Member Staff Member VFG Past President

    I still have this Halston skirt...interesting made in Canada but looks like the fabric was Made in Japan.

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  7. denisebrain

    denisebrain VFG Vice President Staff Member VFG Past President

    Toray Industries, the maker of this fabric, was/is in Japan so it's not surprising to see Made in Japan. I don't know why Halston was made in Canada though.

    Great story Jonathan!
     
  8. Jonathan

    Jonathan VFG Member

    It was pretty standard for Canadian companies to make American brands in Canada under license - it was a way to get around quotas for imports. It was like that until the 90s when Free trade did away with quotas. I know Ralph Lauren and Arrow were also made in Canada for the Canadian market under license.
     
  9. claireshaeffer

    claireshaeffer VFG Member

    Ultrasuede wasn't the easiest fabric to sew, but I developed some techniques to get a nice result.

    I have at least one Ultrasuede skirt which I made on my giveaway or sell rack. Perhaps the next yard sale.
     
    denisebrain and Distantdetails like this.

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