OK, I paid more than usual for this dress, because 66% of me wants to keep it... It's pale turquoise background is stronger in reality, but in artificial light, the gold brocade takes over... But before I start wrestling with my conscience, does anyone have any info about Frederick Starke? In the absence of good reference books, Google is my encyclopaedia, and it tells me that he worked from the 40s to the 60s, he had his retail showroom in exclusive Bruton Street, and that he designed Honor Blackman's wardrobe in the early Avengers episodes. I guess that this must date from a couple of years after that, and it wasn't bought in Bruton Street, because it has a Liberty store label in it too. If anyone has any insights, that'd be great! Lin
Am i wrong, but isn't Liberty of London known for their fabrics and textiles. (i seem to recall it was a particular source for art nouveau revival or WIlliam Morris fabrics? and there were scarves too). Could it be that it was a special Liberty of London fabric versus the dress being bought at a Liberty of London store per say. I have no clue about the actual B&M L.London store because i have never set foot in the U.K. but is seem to recall when looking for some fabric hearing talk of that Liberty of London produced something or other, though there could be more than one thing named Liberty of London. excuse me while i completely talk in circles...
BTW i don't see turquoise at all. do you have a scanner or can you take it somewhere to scan the fabric...maybe the turquoise will be evident then?
Thanks Chris! Yes, I think I might have to scan it - the tinge is visible in daylight, but that ran out fast today before I could take pictures. Liberty's is a full blown department store as well as being famous for its fabrics and has sold a number of designer lines in its clothing departments - the tag is put in just like the Harvey Nichols or Harrods tag would be. Although I think it has had a number of associated designers working with Liberty fabrics for garments to be sold in the store, it doesn't mean that every designer sold there would have a manufacturing connection. Since the fabric tag has been removed, its impossible to know for sure, but I don't think its likely that this is Liberty material - unless anyone knows of a collaboration between the two? There's a file of press clippings about Mr. Starke in the V&A archives - not sure if I'd ever get around to making an appointment to see them though... L
I just had one of those, 'hey, maybe you're right' moments, cos this fabric is pretty lush. So I went and copied the relevant bits from the Liberty's own website 'history' page. Not sure if it helps or hinders though! --------------------------------- The textile departments in the Liberty store grew in the 1920's. Dress fabrics were being seen as less of a long term investment than furnishing fabrics. Liberty introduced a range of smaller scale prints that complemented the twenties style fashions with simple lines and the more flamboyant mood of the thirties. The small scale dainty floral became known as the "Liberty Print". Liberty offered a wide range of dress fabrics in this period. There were cottons, silks, velvets, wools and also the introduction of semi synthetic fabrics such as "Suncleam Crepe". The most famous fabric from this time is "Tana Lawn", which became Liberty's best selling fabric. To take advantage of the evergrowing demand for Liberty prints, a wholesale company was formed in 1939 and called Liberty of London Prints. In 1932, Georges Perrot was introduced into the Costume department in Regent Street to give it a facelift. It was Perrot who invited couturier Paul Poiret to design for Liberty.... The 1960's brought about the passion for fashion. Extravagance and luxury were fundamental in the look for both men and women. Eastern influences once again were the inspiration for society. Art Nouveau became fashionable and Liberty adapted the furnishing designs from its archive for dress silks. The "Lotus Collection" in 1960 was a strong and vibrant interpretation of the turn of the century florals. These prints were immediately successful with top couturiers, who adapted them for their own tastes. Tuffin and Foale, Jean Muir, Mary Quant, Victor Stiebel, Bill Blass, Cacharel, Arnold Scassi and Yves Saint Laurent. {arrgh! they mention everyone else!}
And here's a pirated montage of Frederick Starke's designs for 'Cathy Gale' in the Avengers. Nicked (and adapted) from: http://deadline.theavengers.tv/whoblackman.htm. L
Liberty of London Prints that's what i think was on my mind! And i keep forgetting the art nouveau revival started in the 60s. I keep thinking 70s. why? i don't know.
and i think i came acrossed liberty of london when i was trying to find a fabric to recover my early 10th century settee in...that was how i originally stumbled acrossed it i believe
