Hiya all, Among my wonderful finds I have this beautiful taffeta evening coat. At first I though it could be Victorian but once steamed and modelled on my friend it transformed. My mother (she was and still is, a model (at 78!) thinks it looks like something very special and likened it to Diors new look. Now there are no labels at all whatsoever. So even if it was it would be super hard to find out or verify. However I was wondering if some of our wonderful experts could have a look and see what they think? Just photos of my friend wearing it for now but I am taking detailed photos as i type (well i will in a sec) so will add those in an hour or so. Any info much appreciated. I can tell you that every stitch is hand sewn, to an extremely high standard and all the seams are pattern matching. The fabric is taffeta (EDIT: Not silk, just did the burn test), and the lining is a plain black taffeta. The fastenings are hook and eye. There is a type of black netting as the interfacing/stiffening fabric, it seems very delicate though, i'm not sure what it is made of but my guess is it is different to modern netting fabric.
Updating with some photo's of construction & details. Overall look when laying flat (I'm not convinced I got the collar right on my friend) Collar to show how well the fabric is matched Netting fabric used as interfacing/stiffening fabric underarm has extra fabric panel Close up of hand stitching
1960's? The underarm gusset, color, shape. Could it have been part of and ensemble? Intriguing. Marian
Hi Marian, I'm sure it could have been but I'm afraid I have no insight since I bought a large amount of vintage clothing from a vintage store close out. I'm really glad you mentioned the collar, I have seen it many times but could not remember the era, now you have said 60s it does look very much like the collars of the time. Do you think early 60s?
I really don't think so. The hem had a hem lining in it (I presume for a little extra weight) the hand stitching along the hem matches the other stitching and using the same thread. It's just below knee length on my friend, approx 39 inches shoulder to hem along the front, i think the back is slightly longer. Also I think there is more fabric at the back than it looks in the photo, when i had it laying flat there seemed to be a lot of fabric after the waist point at the centre back,
A picture of it laying flat so you can see there are a couple of extra folds of fabric (not visible on the picture of my friend wearing it, as she was cinching the waist forward).
It's very striking, I can say that for sure! But as to other aspects: Hmmm. My best guess would be that it was carefully homemade in the 1950s, as a hostess jacket/gown to wear with pants. The shorter length of it belies it being a coat or dress from the era it looks to be. I believe you fastened the collar correctly on your friend, with one side wrapping over the other and snapping. The sleeves might have a deep lining, and you can cuff them up in that case. The interfacing netting is tulle. I can see it with black pants and a black belt.
Maggie, I think you've got it! Those underarm gussets are such a 50s feature in my view... I have a 50s suit pattern in front of me right now with similar kimono sleeves... and underarm gussets .
My thoughts exactly! That is why I asked if it had been shortened. I love the colors and pattern, very striking.
Oh wow, yes i think you have it too! You are right about the sleeves, they are very deep set in the cuffs and can be turned up quite high. Gosh how gorgeous to imagine this with black crop pants and black heels! Gosh I have learned so much here and there is still so much to learn
This fabric reminds me very much of a Japanese piece I once had: it was beautifully made. It was some sort of jacket or coat, completely hand sewn and the silk taffeta and faille was just lovely. You say yours isn't silk so maybe it's an acetate taffeta? Is the faille silk perhaps? Anyway, yours shows signs of both being beautifully made, and altered by a less skilled seamstress (eg, excellent pattern matching but then ouch, that centre back seams and bunched up arm seams). I wonder if it's something like my Japanese jacket that has been altered to current fashion in the late '50s to early '60s (hence the underarm gussets and bias collar).
I really did think it was silk taffeta but the burn test revealed a strong smell and the flame went like nobodies business! (no fire retardant regs back then!!!). I burnt my finger as the black globule stuck to the tip. I'm not sure I can exactly name the smell though, not quite plastic but certainly pungent.
Yikes! Sorry you burned your finger! Your description sounds like acetate to me. If you have another bit of fabric to test and some acetone, you can dab the fabric and if it’s acetate it will dissolve.
Oohh, great tip! I will buy some acetone nail varnish remover and check, I do have a few loose threads to play with.
