IDENTIFY ORNATE EDWARDIAN GOWN -CALLOT SOUERS?

Here is a front & back view of what I believe is a Parisian couture Edwardian gown. Two curators at LACMA confirmed it was Parisian and suggested it might be Callot Souers or some equivalent house. I would like to put it out there to your collective experienced eye / libraries and see what you think. Thanks in advance for your help!

 

For the benefit of readers could you explain why the curators at LACMA believe this dress is Parisian?

 

Hi,

I understand about them being able to identify this as Haute Couture (made in Paris) from the details, but I am dying to have you share some information how in the world did they single out the sisters Callot out of ALL the possibilities of that time period? I can see similarities to their work of that era, but also to many other HC houses of that time period.

If you can share any of the clues that they shared with you, about what made them think Callot, that would be great. I am SO curious to know!

Anyway, it is beautiful and thanks for sharing.

Barbara

 

Hi, Thanks for your responses - I have no idea why they referenced Callot Souers for this piece - I actually didn't know much about the label. Since then, I have done a little research on Callot Souers, and while I have seen a few pieces with some similarities, I'm still unsure. As I mentioned in my other thread, the curators really wanted me to donate this gown to the museum - I really wish I could have - their request indicates it must be worthy in some way.... I took this gown along as an afterthought - I was there primarily to have my Poiret coat authenticated, so that was the "star" of the day. Less time was spent discussing this piece. Has anybody seen anything similar that might give me a clue what direction to start looking in? Thanks again so much for your help!

 

You might want to contact Karen Augusta auctions. She is a member of the VFG, and could probably advise you.

http://www.augusta-auction.com/

 

I can be of no help here, but that gown is divine! Thanks for sharing it with us!

 

I'm yet another person here who can't help with identifying this lovely piece...but my heart melts with its beauty!

 

It looks like you will have to get a second or a third opinion from a recognised costume historian about the authenticity of the dress. Linn makes reference to the Met and I think that would be a start. I came across this useful article which others may also have seen, from The Conservation Center Institute of Fine Arts, New York University, regarding Callot Soeurs dresses from the collection of Hortense Mitchell Acton a wealthy American who lived at the Villa la Pietra;

"Pre-eminent in her collection were 20 gowns and dresses from the couture, turn-of-the-century, Parisian house of Callot Soeurs. All of these dresses contained labels of the fashion house, many with the valuable dress pattern registration number written in pen on the back. Because of the fragility of the materials and designs favored by these couturiers (e.g., heavily beaded silk tulle) Callot Soeurs gowns are rarely found in good condition. For this reason, Hortense’s collection is doubly precious both for its condition and as a kind of stop-motion film of one woman’s lifelong appreciation of and association with a particular couture house.

The house of Callot, presided over by three sisters, was an establishment of the utmost elegance. Born in France, but of Russian an-
cestry, les Callot Soeurs began as lingerie and ribbon merchants, later opening up their own couture house. Some of the best known designers trained in their work-room; Vionnet and Louise Boulanger worked at Callot. Their clothes reflected the tradition of great luxury and quality in fashion, using the finest silks, lames,velvets, satins, and crepes. Many of the examples in the Villa la Pietra
collection are typical of Callot Soeurs dresses with their scalloped hemlines, panels, tassels, embroidery, and abundant use of beading. The sisters were also very influenced by the Far East, using embroidery with Chinese motifs in gold and silver threads."

Article link;

http://tinyurl.com/2dqwxt4

 

Gorgeous!!

 

Thank you all so much for your responses and compliments! I am open to ANY suggestions of any comparable houses - please don't be shy! Paquin? Boué Soeurs? (sorry about the previous mis-spelled français!) Worth? Lucille Duff Gordon? I would love it if you would just throw out some names of designers / houses / labels that were active in about 1912 and successful enough to have access to these type of materials and skilled bead workers. I referenced the larger amber-colored pieces trimming the glass beads in my other thread - I am posting a close up of them. It was suggested that these were celluloid - does that information help anyone? By the way, I noticed the remnants of a clipped label - maybe I should post a photo of it in case the color of the label stub rings any bells...

 

Close up of Bodice..

 

Two more close ups - please excuse the color discrepancies - I have enhanced to better show detail

 

Another try at uploading

 

I have a dress made by the Callots Soeurs - or perhaps I should say "a potential dress" because it's currently in pieces, awaiting a stretch of undivided time when I can reconstruct it.

It's from the early 1920s and is a rich coral silk, from memory a charmeuse. The colour is intense - the structure is simple, with rouleaux work defining the hips. There is also a gold metallic band, which has become separated and I need to reattach - unfortunately the dress is damaged and also had dark stains like ink. If it weren't for the designers, I doubt I would keep it but pieces like this come along so rarely.

I was thinking perhaps Lucile for your dress, Helen, but you've already got her on your list of potentials. I just had a look at my book on Patou and couldn't see anything similar, sorry.

Nicole

Nicole

 

Thanks for taking the time to look through your library Nicole - I really appreciate it! Lucille is actually a potential candidate for the creator of this piece - I have seen a couple of her gorgeous pieces that are reminiscent of my gown. Unfortunately I have nothing of her in my library... It's great that you are doing a restoration of your potential Callot Soeurs - love to see a photo when you get through it! Thanks again for your time!

 

There is a new book on Lucile - I can't find it online but it came out recently, and is sure to be a good resource.

Here is a photo I took of an Edwardian wedding gown by Lucile - it's part of the Darnell Collection, and features in my book Love Vintage.



Nicole