I'm stumped on this one.

Hi Ladies and Gentlemen,

I just cannot figure this set out....I'm not sure which era it's from.

It may be hard to tell the details from the photos, but it's a matching skirt and jacket set...open front jacket with no buttons, no zippers, no snaps, straight seams with no darts...navy blue (feels like rayon) outer layer with an inner rayon-crepe feeling nude fabric...no shoulder pads, tapers slightly from elbow to wrist, cuff link buttons at the sleeves, pinked seams, weights in the corners of the jacket, open welt pockets.

The skirt is fairly short with the similar hip/waist measurements, hem tape at bottom of skirt, semi-flared skirt at the knees.

Both have a decorative seam pattern (the jacket back has three isosceles triangles, and the skirt has a similar pattern).

Here are the measurements :
jacket
length : 35"
bust : 42"
waist : 44"
hip : 46"
sleeve : 24"
shoulder : 16.5"

skirt
length : 25"
waist : 42"
hip : 46"

Any thoughts?

 

Many of the features and measurements you've described sound like it could be '20s but if that's the case, it's likely the skirt has been shortened: can you tell if that is the case?

I'm curious about the back seaming - do you have a photo, because that's more suggestive of '30s, as is the rayon fabric. The skirt is too short for '30s too.

Beautiful label, and your photos are great.

PS, the lining looks like it could be silk crepe, which suggests the suit is silk too: is it cool to the touch?

 

Hey Nicole,

Thanks for the input! I thought 20s too, but was not quite sure, and didn't know the type of fur to investigate. I'll take some more photos of the details you mentioned and post them on Friday when I am back around the set again!

THANKSSSS

 

It looks very late 20s to me, 1928ish, with rabbit trim I think. Hess Brothers was a surprisingly high-end department store in the middle of Pennsylvania, but there was a theory to running it that was explained in a documentary about the store (I think you can find it still on Youtube), which was that by having a high-end fashion department and a well-known restaurant that barely broke even, you pulled in shoppers by quantity- even if they only bought $10.00 shirts.

 

Yes, a very lovely suit indeed!

Jonathan, that's interesting about Hess Brothers! I've had some things from there and they were really nice quality. I found some info about the store, but never heard the details! Will have to see if I can find that documentary on Youtube.

 

I agree with very late 1920s. I think maybe even 1929. The clean simple lines of the tailoring, and also the skirt length seem right for 1928-1929 to me. The fur looks like Persian lamb or mountain goat.

I think it is stunning.

 

Wow, thanks for all the information, everyone! I'll post a few more photos like I promised on Friday morning. And Jonathan, I'll be sure to look for that documentary...that's awesome!

 

Looks very much like what they're beginning to wear in Series 1 of The House of Eliott, which is early to mid 20s. But those sisters are designers, and forward-thinking/ahead of their time.

 

I agree with Jonathan that the fur is probably rabbit.

 

Me too! On the rabbit, that is.

 

Yes, as I'm looking at it, rabbit seems exactly right.

Here are some of the photos I promised....of the seams on the back of the jacket and the top hem of the skirt (it looks like it could have been shortened here.)

 

Love it.

 

I am sticking to my guns on this one....definitely not rabbit. Looks very much to be lamb, as I mentioned above. I think it falls into one of the categories of broadtail lamb, probably from a baby lamb that was a day or two old or thereabouts.

Looks aside, rabbit has traditionally been considered a very low end fur, not suitable for such a lovely garment, especially navy blue, as the rabbit would shed. Broadtail lamb was very popular in the mid to late 1920s and this fur trim on your suit looks exactly like it to me.

 

Interesting point Barbara, I'll examine it a bit more closely and see if I can discern anything.

In the meantime you'll find me in the corner crying about the baby lamb that is now an ornament. :( Kidding. But still sad.

 

I agree with Barbara that this is a lamb fur. the wavy pattern indicates that. The quality of rabbit not matching the garment is an excellent point. I'd like to add that rabbit is a very thin hide and would not have held its condition so well, no matter how well it was treated.

This set is absolutely stunning!

 

I would buy this in a heart beat if it were my size! It's gorgeous!

 

Just an update! This set will be on film in a new Woody Allen movie coming out in 2014! Keep your eyes peeled!