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Sartor House Apparel, Manchester, England????

Discussion in 'PUBLIC Vintage Fashion - Ask Questions Get Answers' started by MyVintageCocktail, May 29, 2009.

  1. MyVintageCocktail

    MyVintageCocktail VFG Member

    Has anyone ever seen this label, or know anything about it? Pardon the poor picture, but I took it with my cell phone at the thrift shop! This is on a wonderful men's overcoat, which appears to be from the 60s or older; it has pistol pockets on both sides! I adore men's coats, but have a lot of them and dithered about picking this one up.... The coat appears to be of nice quality.

    The label has writing along the top, but for the life of me I can't recall what it said.... The bottom of it says, "Sartor House, Manchester, England."

    Any enlightenment would be so appreciated!

    [​IMG]
     
  2. Retro Ruth

    Retro Ruth VFG Member Staff Member

    Well I found that a museum in Hull has a Sartor House coat dating 1940-1949. But the museum's website doesn't seem to be working and I haven't found out more. The following text came up in a google search, but the link didn't show anything.

    Search Results - Hull Museums Collections
    Object Name: Coat; Artist / Maker: Sartor Tailor, Sartor House, Manchester,; Date/Period: 1940-1949; Location on Display: Museum - Not Currently on display ...
    www.hullcc.gov.uk/.../image.php?...new...Sartor+Tailor,+Sartor+House,+Manchester,... - 36k - Cached - Similar pages -
    More results from www.hullcc.gov.uk »

    Here's the actual link in case it works for you.

    http://www.hullcc.gov.uk/museumcoll...accessionnumber=&Sender=List&Page=1&irn=30102

    But at least you know some museum thought it worth collecting.
     
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  3. Retro Ruth

    Retro Ruth VFG Member Staff Member

    also, Sartor means 'tailor' in latin! Not particularly helpful, but interesting!
     
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  4. MyVintageCocktail

    MyVintageCocktail VFG Member

    Thanks for the info; when I googled it I didn't come up with that museum reference! I thought that "sartor" meant something like tailor or clothier, or similar. I'm wondering, then, if this may not have been a custom shop. I'll definitely go back for the coat (hopefully it's still there).
     
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  5. Retro Ruth

    Retro Ruth VFG Member Staff Member

    Google knows what country you are in, so I get better local google results about English stuff. Sartor is also a surname.
     
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  6. lkranieri

    lkranieri VFG Member

    I found this same 1957 ad--and very slight variations on it--through 1982.

    SartorHouse1957.gif
     
    Last edited: Mar 31, 2023
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  7. Linn

    Linn Super Moderator Staff Member VFG Past President

    "sartorial" - adj.

    Of or relating to a tailor, tailoring, or tailored clothing: sartorial elegance.

    [From Late Latin sartor, tailor. See sartorius.]

    From answers.com online dictionary.

    Hope the coat is still there, Anne. It probably is since it's summer!

    Linn
     
  8. MyVintageCocktail

    MyVintageCocktail VFG Member

    Oh, my, Lynne--I think that's the coat! It is wool gabardine, but in a raincoat... That actually is what caught my eye to begin with--as it is not a poplin or broadcloth like most raincoats.

    I've gotta have that coat... If it's still there tomorrow morning, I'll grab it. Those older men's coats don't sell well at the local thrifts.... This one has the older-type lining in it (the kind you know is old when you feel it), so I'd guess it's closer to the 1957 version than the 1982 one.
     
  9. Ian C

    Ian C Registered Guest

    Hi, I know it is a long time ago but I just found this re Sartor.
    I live in the Manchester area and my late father was a director of Sartor until he retired in 1978.
    They were based on Derby St, in the Cheetham hill area of Manchester, which was a predominantly Jewish area. They were set up by Bernard Cohen in the late 1800's I believe, when he died the company was passed to his son Ronnie Conway post WW2.
    They made sports jackets, raincoats and had a bespoke tailoring showroom in the factory for suits etc.
    If remember correctly they closed down in the80's, they were mainly mail order but all their garments were from the best quality Yorkshire cloth with a really professional tailoring skill.
    Where abouts in the US did you find this? as I have family connections with the US.
    If I can be of any further help let me know.
    Great post!!
     
  10. amandainvermont

    amandainvermont VFG Member

    Great post Ian and Anne - WHERE is there a thrift shop that is open ??????? I am so jealous.

    Oops - just realized - an old post with a new response.
     
    Last edited: Apr 25, 2020
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  11. Simon D

    Simon D Registered Guest

    Hi all, I found this site while searching for "Sartor".

    Just this morning, I was looking at a jacket that belonged to my late father. It's a lovely jacket, well made and in great condition.

    I've attached a few images which add a bit more information to the great post by Ian above. Note the different location of the company and the label with "Conway" possibly the style of jacket ? I've no idea of the age of the jacket but we did live in Yorkshire many years ago and my father was one for hanging onto his favorite clothes !

    Thanks, Simon

    Sart1.JPG Sart2.JPG Sart3.JPG Sart4.JPG
     

    Attached Files:

  12. Ian C

    Ian C Registered Guest

    Hi Simon,
    That rang some bells, I now remember In the 80's the company was bought out and relocated to Bingley, they kept the name but non of the original staff were retained. The jacket you had the photo was the M55 jacket which was slightly longer than the most popular jacket they made, the M45, It had raglan sleeves so it could be used to play golf in , I would guess that the Conway is a nod to Ronnie who I think died just before the company was sold.
     
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  13. mat curran

    mat curran Registered Guest

    I recall the label from my childhood. My mum was a highly skilled seamstress in Manchester and Salford in the 1940’s, 1950’s, and 1960’s. Because she had 4 kids and dad worked, she sewed at home. She liked working for Sartor because they paid - not much, but they did not make their workers wait until they had sold the clothes before they were given less money than they had been promised for the work. Mother also trained other women, mostly Irish Catholics, who lived in Lower Broughton and, later, Partington in Cheshire, to use sewing machines. All her kids, except the youngest were recruited to do the boring bits of sewing bundles of (mainly raincoat) parts delivered to the house 14 at a time. That had been, and was still then called a dozen, even though there were normally 14 coats in a package. I can still recall sewing the back seam of seven gabardine raincoats on Saturday morning. Must have been about 10, judging by the relative sizes of machine, me and coats in the memory.
    I went to Nottingham University when I was 17. While there I met a Jewish girl called Jackie Deyong and, together with my girlfriend, got to her engagement party at her mother’s flat in Kensington. There I met her father, Simon, who introduced himself as the owner of Sartor. He lived in Malta and ran a Buddhist retreat on the Island. He did not know anything about the people who made the Sartor garments, and wanted to believe that they were all Jewish, and that ´Sartor’ meant ´kosher’... It wasn’t Simon who picked the Latin for tailor as the name of the company.
    When he wasn’t in Malta, Simon had property around Brighton. Jackie later settled in Old Woking, and I would suppose that, as the company was sold in the 1980´s, probably, either place might be useful for raincoat related history.
     
  14. MissusWVintage

    MissusWVintage Registered Guest

    Hello, I have recently come into possession of a SARTOR coat. It is a stunning piece of tailoring. The fabric feels so good, and the lining is very soft. I have never felt anything like it. The coat I have has a label on the inside stating it is ‘Denbisil’ fabric, which I am assuming must be some proprietary waterproofing.
    Obviously 70 years later, it is no longer waterproof however I did handwash it and it dried and pressed beautifully. I live in the UK, I am a vintage clothing seller and love to research the history of my items, especially trench coats as they are so technical.
    Another note of interest was that the label had ‘US Distributers, The Sambi, Minneapolis’.
    I’m assuming the coat was made in Manchester, England. Then distributed to the US. Then made its way back to the UK. I live in the South of England but I am from a town near Manchester, so this of course A855D5BB-1EF0-4A46-8672-6A71A3DBC4D7.jpeg 1077F22E-A0EA-4B4F-99F5-A97B726DEF6D.jpeg 5E153278-9182-4574-AFD0-454DDC9E9C22.jpeg C692957E-487B-4FD9-87ED-09D4D18C9E81.jpeg E5A8C184-20B2-4D6F-BF87-7883D0E5BBBD.png is of interest to me.
    Some pics attached
    Fiona ~ MissusWVintage
     
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  15. Midge

    Midge Super Moderator Staff Member

  16. Timdaw

    Timdaw Registered Guest

    I've recently acquired a cycling jacket made by Sartor. The company used to advertise in the Cyclist's Touring Club (CTC) magazine back in the 1950's. The jacket is their top of the range 'Alpine' in very good quality lovat coloured gaberdine cloth, costing £4.9.0 in 1954, as in the advert from the CTC Gazette below. If you were a CTC member you could give Sartor your details and they would send you a jacket, without pre-payment. If you were happy with it you paid by cheque within 3 days, or you could return it....things were different then!
    It has 4 pockets, 2 with zips, and a drawstring waist. I will replace the non-original drawstring with a more appropriate cotton one.The standard of construction and finish is high, and the jacket pressed very easily after washing.
    The label is the same as the coat in the above post. I don't think garments found in this country with this label were sent to the USA, rather it just indicated that they had a USA distributor.

    IMG_8216.jpg

    IMG_8215.jpg

    IMG_8219.jpg

    IMG_8218.jpg

    IMG_8217.jpg
     

    Attached Files:

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  17. denisebrain

    denisebrain VFG Vice President Staff Member VFG Past President

    Really fine jacket—I love that it's a cycling jacket specifically!
     
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  18. Oldclothes

    Oldclothes Registered Guest

    I have a Sartor jacket that I bought from a charity shop in Portsmouth sometime between 1994-5.

    I recently paid to have it relined. It's still going strong. Minimal wear on the outer, I regularly wear it - I basically lived in it as a student.

    Here are a few photos. There might be some dark patch in the photos. That's water - I'd just been out in the rain.
    IMG_20230331_082248.jpg IMG_20230331_082300.jpg IMG_20230331_082309.jpg IMG_20230331_082341.jpg IMG_20230331_082400.jpg
    I'd be interested to know how old it is. I'd always assumed 70s.
     
  19. Timdaw

    Timdaw Registered Guest

    It looks 60's or 70's to me. They relocated to Bingley in early 80's so its pre that date. It's great that you are keeping it going even to the point of having it re-lined! Keep the Sartor flag flying!
     
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