Vintage Clothing Historical Study - Share your thoughts!

Hi there everyone,

My name is Jodie Conway, and I am an MA History student at Queen Mary University of London. I am currently working on my dissertation, which is about the commercialisation of vintage clothing in New York . Specifically, I am researching how second hand clothing transformed from being cheap and easily found in thrift stores, to acquiring the status of vintage, and in turn, increasing monetary and cultural value.

So, I was wondering if anyone would like to answer some questions about their experience with the second hand and vintage clothing industries in New York between the years of 1960 and 1980. I think my study will really benefit from hearing from those who directly took part in the sale and acquisition of the clothing. I will post the questions below that I would love to hear people's thoughts on, and then if anyone would like to share their experience, if in answer to even just one of the questions, please do post!

Bare in mind when answering that I'm looking for information on the period 1960-1980, so when sharing your thoughts keep this timeframe of your experience in mind.

• 
  How long have you worked/shopped in the vintage clothing trade?
  
  
• What made you decide to open/work/shop in a vintage clothing shop?
  
  
• Do you yourself pick the items that you sell/sold/buy? How do you choose these?
  
  
• In your opinion, what makes a piece of clothing ‘vintage’? What makes it different to just ‘second-hand’?
  
  
• When did this idea take off? Can you recall when certain pieces of second-hand clothing became ‘vintage’ and how this happened?
  
  
• Why do you think vintage clothing became so popular?
  
  
• What made you set up your shop/shop in New York? Why do you think vintage clothing became so popular there?
  
  
• Do you recall when the prices of vintage items started to increase? Do you have an idea why they did?
  
  
• Did you have any relationship with the owners of thrift stores? Do you think their business was as successful when vintage clothing became popular?
  
  
• Did yourself and other vintage dealers/shoppers swap tips and items?
  
  
• Did you consider yourself part of a distinct community through the clothes you chose?
  
  
• Do you recall the popularity and rise of vintage clothing ever being shown in popular culture? For example, can you recall any celebrities being known for wearing vintage clothing, or any movies that featured characters that did?
  

Thanks so much guys!

 

I didn't have a shop then but as a vintage shopper in NYC from 1978 to 2003 when I left NYC, I could tell you tales. I feel the mid 1980s was when it changed... I guess as rents and commercial rent taxes began to soar. If I can be helpful, please let me know. We visit frequently and find vintage still but it's truly different.

 

Dear Jodie,

I was active as both a buyer, wearer, collector, and seller of vintage clothing throughout most of the 1970s, 1971-1980. In both New York City and the surrounding NY city area. I saw a great deal of changes during that period. Not just expected changes in the pricing, but in the levels in the perceptions of vintage overall, what to collect versus what to wear, the birth of vintage expos and shows in Manhattan, the caste system of dealers, media attention, famous people who wore it, designers influenced by it, etc. My older sisters began wearing vintage and antique clothing in the very late 60s so I had exposure to that also.

Your idea for a dissertation is quite interesting. I would love to assist and will write you with detailed answers to your questions or you may contact me here through the Forums.

Do you have a deadline for a reply? This may take me some time as there is a lot to share.

Great questions, by the way, food for thought! Guess every so often it helps to be an old timer in this business.

 

Hi,
Oh wonderful thank you so much! I'd love to hear your experience as well, if you believe significant changes worth noting happened after this period especially. Please share the informstion you have related to these questions, but let me know roughly what years you're recalling in your answers. Thank you so much in advance.

 

Absolutely amazing, that would be so helpful, thank you! I'd love to hear all about everything you've mentioned here, it sounds fascinating. If possible i'd like to be able to review all the answers by the end of August and put it together with the rest of my research, but my study isn't due until early September so if you need more time, please take it as I'll be able to look over it within that month still.

Thank you again for your reply, I can't wait to hear your answers.

 

Barbara and Cin,
It would be a special treat to me and probably many others to read about your experiences.

 

All right, here goes... answering with NYC vintage as the focus. I was there, as I say above, from 1978 to 2003.

• How long have you worked/shopped in the vintage clothing trade? I have been selling vintage on Etsy for 12 years. Before that I sold on eBay. BUT my experiences in NYC were as a shopper and collector who traded/sold with like-minded friends.
  
  
• What made you decide to open/work/shop in a vintage clothing shop? I never had a shop in NYC. I just didn't have the 'bank' or storage space. Real estate was always a premium. I wish it had been different for me.
  
  
• Do you yourself pick the items that you sell/sold/buy? How do you choose these? I shopped and window-shopped everywhere. I felt I had the tiger by the tail regarding opportunity to shop or at least look. My mother bought gorgeous vintage/antiques in California where I grew up and taught me quality but NYC had the BEST. From private homes to Goodwills to antique shops and from dumpsters to costumers' stock. If it was there, I felt I could find it.
  
  At the time, I felt it was economical to shop vintage. Example, once I saw a sweet taffeta dress at Lord & Taylor. No way could I afford it. BUT I found a similar 50s taffeta dress at a funny little vintage store on Canal Street for $10 and felt fabulous in it.
  
  
• In your opinion, what makes a piece of clothing ‘vintage’? What makes it different to just ‘second-hand’? Vintage is over 20 years. Second hand is less than 20 years. When I first started shopping, though, it was either antique or vintage you wanted and vintage was at least 30 years.
  
  
• When did this idea take off? Can you recall when certain pieces of second-hand clothing became ‘vintage’ and how this happened? I remember in the late 70s people were blending 1930s-40s for a cool Art Deco fusion look... Bonnie and Clyde go to the Disco with Annie Hall. lol. But in NYC in the 70s and 80s vintage was where people turned for originality. Even someone who worked in an office would choose a vintage 50s blazer, get it altered and look sharp but still be office appropriate.
  
  
• Why do you think vintage clothing became so popular? I think people love magic. I think people want to look different from one another. I think people want to dive into previous eras. I think there's a romance in dressing in clothing from the past. Superficially, there's a look we desire and want to embrace.
  
  
• What made you set up your shop/shop in New York? Why do you think vintage clothing became so popular there? I was a poor, creative kid. At first I really LIKED the people who shopped vintage. I, then, liked the quality and uniqueness, the feel of the fabrics. It was the 1970s... fabrics were kind of icky but the vintage ones were luxurious to my touch.
  
  
• Do you recall when the prices of vintage items started to increase? Do you have an idea why they did? Oh yes. I can practically tell you the day. lol. Mid 80s. Some of the amazing places I shopped in the 70s were closing up. Why? We in NYC needed to feed and entertain the rich bankers and give homes to wealthier families. So the place across from the Museum of Natural History (that was INCREDIBLE) closed. Rent became too high and the next resident, a restaurant could pay it.
  
  Mid 90s I noticed as the shops and restaurants got fancier and pushed out the diners, the vintage shops who moved in had insane prices... I loved some and how they curated their vintage but their prices were nuts.
  
  
• Did you have any relationship with the owners of thrift stores? Do you think their business was as successful when vintage clothing became popular? Thrift shops in NYC were a little too chilly for my liking and I don't know why. The exception was one on Spring Street, a big national, where a super sweet guy worked. He held stuff aside for some of us, knew our sizes. For many years the thrifts didn't carry as much in the way of vintage unless they were the specialized charities rather than a big national. This started to change around the 90s.
  
  I feel vintage was always popular and the shops in NYC that did the best 1) had a TON of stuff on the racks, 2) followed the trends. Not vintage trends but what was going on uptown in Bergdorf's or Barneys. So when celery green was so popular in the late 80s, you would see the 1960s version of it in the vintage shop windows.
  
  But all the vintage clothing stores and antique shops where I shopped frequently were exceedingly friendly towards me.
  
  
• Did yourself and other vintage dealers/shoppers swap tips and items? I am always eager to swap tips and share. Not everyone is like this and in NYC it was competitive. Thankfully, I wasn't a dealer so once the ice melted, folks shared with me just because. Had I been a dealer, there would've been no sharing, I'm certain. lol
  
  
• Did you consider yourself part of a distinct community through the clothes you chose? I didn't consider myself to be in a community but I was part of a neighborhood if that makes sense. NYC for many many years (before 1990) was a little more insular and I loved the challenge of fitting into that. Vintage wasn't part of that. In college though, my friends and I felt a kinship going out vintage shopping together... it was incredibly fun and I learned how to dress better because my friends had that poised Eastern style. So when my BFF bought a great mens cashmere cardigan or silk scarf from the 40s, I took note. I guess vintage was a social life. : )
  
  
• Do you recall the popularity and rise of vintage clothing ever being shown in popular culture? For example, can you recall any celebrities being known for wearing vintage clothing, or any movies that featured characters that did? Oh yes! Too many to tell... famous designers are always shopping beside me. They were shopping for their next year or next season. I saw it all the time.

 

Thank you so so much for taking the time to share your experience with me, this has been so helpful (and fascinating) to read!

 

Very happy to help, if I can. Let me know if I can assist further.

 

Hi everyone,

One further question, I was wondering if anyone could recommend or suggest anyone I could contact directly to interview with these questions? Of course I don't expect you to give me any personal details, but names or shops that I could look up and contact would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

 

I found some interesting info about Barbra Striesand buying vintage in NY in 1960 - if you don't have that reference, its worth flushing out. Here is my blog about it: http://kickshawproductions.com/blog/?p=8049

There are also some oblique references in fashion mags in the late 1950s, relating to wearing vintage Edwardian styles - vintage muffs, lace, and jewellery - in keeping with My Fair Lady.

 

I had seen her quoted in a New York Times article talking about her preference for vintage but hadn't had a chance to follow it up yet, so that's really helpful, thank you!

Yes I have come across some! Sifting through issue after issues of publications is hard work but so worth it when you pull something out of it! May I ask what fashion magazines you are referring to? I have been looking at vogue mostly, and intend to have a look through new york magazine's 'the cut' next. If you could recommend me some to look at that would be great!

Thanks so much.

 

I don't remeber off the top of my head, but I have it cited somewhere - I found the references doing newspaper searches - probably New York Times. Also, the late 50s revival of raccoon, using old stock 20s raccoon coats: http://kickshawproductions.com/blog/?p=13619

 

Hi everyone,

I am just finishing up my research now and so will soon be preparing to write. If anyone has anything else they wish to share, now is the time! I'd love to hear from more of you, especially since those I have spoken to thus far have given me some really fascinating accounts that have pushed my research forward! I have also widened the scope of my investigation from 1950 - 1990, so if anyone else has any information given this, please do share.

I can't thank those of you that have contributed so far enough, and I hope to hear more recollections soon.
Thank you all!

 

Jodie said: "I have also widened the scope of my investigation from 1950 - 1990, so if anyone else has any information given this, please do share"

Jodie,

Does this mean that your dissertation itself has now changed, and it will encompass all vintage clothing history from the 1950s to the 1990s? Or is it still going to be the period of 1960-1970?

Your reply will greatly effect my answers to your questions posed above, if that is indeed the case.

Wishing you great success on this exciting project.

Regards, Barbara

 

Hi Barbara,

My study will be predominantly focused on 1960-1980, however I have been looking at things such as the popularity of 1920's raccoon fur coats in the 50's, and the rising rents and more expensive independent or department store boutiques of the 80's. However, the majority of my research has still lead me towards the original period stated. So, you can choose to answer either with reference to the period 1960-1980, but if you wish to share anything either side of these decades then go ahead!

I'm just thankful you're taking the time to share your experience, so please just share whatever you feel you have the time to!

Thanks again,
Jodie