Last week, responding to the subject of rayon, Marian asked what fabrics are made with the fiber.
(Remember, rayon is a fiber, and a fiber is made into a fabric. Rayon alone is not the name of a fabric.)
Rayon started out slowly (embroidery floss, trims that wouldn’t need to be washed, stockings) and as the manufacturing process developed, it was used for nearly all fabric types.
Starting as “artificial silk”, a silk-like fabric with a lower price tag, many industry stakeholders felt the name needed revisiting by the 1920s. Not only was the public perception that it was the poor cousin of silk, but differentiation was sought by silk manufacturers too.
In 1925, the U.S. National Retail Dry Goods Association called for a new name (not using the word silk) for the fiber, and rayon was chosen. Very soon other countries adopted this name as well. With the lovely new moniker, advertising ramped up, and by the 1930s, rayon had become an important fiber, beloved for its versatility.
It was, by mid century, available as satin, velvet, taffeta, chiffon, georgette, mousseline, jacquards (brocade, damask), faille, shantung, matelassé, organza, voile, gabardine, bouclé, piqué, barathea, jersey, butcher cloth, charmeuse, foulard, surah, tulle, and simplex among others. Rayon was doing it all.
In terms of weights, you can find trims and veils, top weight, bottom weight and even heavy weight fabrics made from rayon or a rayon blend.
In terms of use, you can find many dress fabrics, linings, suitings, sweater knits, gloves, lingerie, stockings, bathing suits, neckties and scarves, handbags, trimmings, and millinery yarns.
Wedding dress of rayon and lace, 1916 (more about it from the V&A HERE).
This dress called "Samovar" was designed by Paul Poiret in 1921-22. The V&A, where it resides, describes the fabrics as a knitted black rayon (either viscose or cuprammonium) bodice with gilt metal thread embellishment, and a viscose rayon machine-made lace skirt over a double petticoat of gold lamé and black tulle.
Evening dress of rayon crepe with rayon fringe by Madeleine Vionnet (The MET)
Dress, 1947 by Adrian (The MET). I don't know the weave, but I suspect it is plain weave rayon).
Western suit, rayon gabardine by Ranch Maid c.1950s (from my sold archives)
Rayon Velvet Maxi Coat, circa 1971 by Aristos. Sold by Bonhams.
Acetate
As we know from the history of rayon, experimentation toward creating a man-made fiber out of tree pulp dates to around 1860, but only in 1894 was the production of the fiber cellulosic acetate patented—by Arthur D. Little of Boston. It was the second manufactured cellulosic fiber, following rayon, and it was used for film, celluloid plastic and “artificial silk” (as both rayon and acetate were called at that time). The brothers Camille and Henri Dreyfus of Switzerland were the first to develop a satisfactory process for commercially producing the fiber in 1905.
Acetate was first made commercially in England after World War I, by British Celanese Limited, calling its fiber celanese. The fiber was first spun commercially in the U.S. in 1924, and it was trademarked as Celanese.
The U.S. Federal Trade Commission gave acetate a grouping separate from rayon in 1953. Acetate is manufactured under many trade names, including Celanese, Acele, and Estron in the U.S., and Dicel and Lansil in the U.K.
Unlike rayon, which also starts with cellulose from wood pulp, the making of acetate employs the use of acetic acid or acetic anhydride. The resulting liquid can be dyed brilliant colors, then spun. The finished fiber is silk’s closest man-made competitor for drape and sheen.
Additional advancements were made by the Celanese Corporation in the 1950s with the development of triacetate. This is a cellulosic fiber made with wood pulp, but it contains less cellulose than regular acetate fibers. That means it handles better when washed, it can withstand more agitation and heat without damaging the fibers, and it’s wrinkle resistant. Triacetate is also used to make dresses, skirts, sportswear, and other types of garments where the retention of permanent pleats is important.
I love your comments and questions, so please make my day.
(Remember, rayon is a fiber, and a fiber is made into a fabric. Rayon alone is not the name of a fabric.)
Rayon started out slowly (embroidery floss, trims that wouldn’t need to be washed, stockings) and as the manufacturing process developed, it was used for nearly all fabric types.
Starting as “artificial silk”, a silk-like fabric with a lower price tag, many industry stakeholders felt the name needed revisiting by the 1920s. Not only was the public perception that it was the poor cousin of silk, but differentiation was sought by silk manufacturers too.
In 1925, the U.S. National Retail Dry Goods Association called for a new name (not using the word silk) for the fiber, and rayon was chosen. Very soon other countries adopted this name as well. With the lovely new moniker, advertising ramped up, and by the 1930s, rayon had become an important fiber, beloved for its versatility.
It was, by mid century, available as satin, velvet, taffeta, chiffon, georgette, mousseline, jacquards (brocade, damask), faille, shantung, matelassé, organza, voile, gabardine, bouclé, piqué, barathea, jersey, butcher cloth, charmeuse, foulard, surah, tulle, and simplex among others. Rayon was doing it all.
In terms of weights, you can find trims and veils, top weight, bottom weight and even heavy weight fabrics made from rayon or a rayon blend.
In terms of use, you can find many dress fabrics, linings, suitings, sweater knits, gloves, lingerie, stockings, bathing suits, neckties and scarves, handbags, trimmings, and millinery yarns.
Wedding dress of rayon and lace, 1916 (more about it from the V&A HERE).
This dress called "Samovar" was designed by Paul Poiret in 1921-22. The V&A, where it resides, describes the fabrics as a knitted black rayon (either viscose or cuprammonium) bodice with gilt metal thread embellishment, and a viscose rayon machine-made lace skirt over a double petticoat of gold lamé and black tulle.
Evening dress of rayon crepe with rayon fringe by Madeleine Vionnet (The MET)
Dress, 1947 by Adrian (The MET). I don't know the weave, but I suspect it is plain weave rayon).
Western suit, rayon gabardine by Ranch Maid c.1950s (from my sold archives)
Rayon Velvet Maxi Coat, circa 1971 by Aristos. Sold by Bonhams.
Acetate
As we know from the history of rayon, experimentation toward creating a man-made fiber out of tree pulp dates to around 1860, but only in 1894 was the production of the fiber cellulosic acetate patented—by Arthur D. Little of Boston. It was the second manufactured cellulosic fiber, following rayon, and it was used for film, celluloid plastic and “artificial silk” (as both rayon and acetate were called at that time). The brothers Camille and Henri Dreyfus of Switzerland were the first to develop a satisfactory process for commercially producing the fiber in 1905.
Acetate was first made commercially in England after World War I, by British Celanese Limited, calling its fiber celanese. The fiber was first spun commercially in the U.S. in 1924, and it was trademarked as Celanese.
The U.S. Federal Trade Commission gave acetate a grouping separate from rayon in 1953. Acetate is manufactured under many trade names, including Celanese, Acele, and Estron in the U.S., and Dicel and Lansil in the U.K.
Unlike rayon, which also starts with cellulose from wood pulp, the making of acetate employs the use of acetic acid or acetic anhydride. The resulting liquid can be dyed brilliant colors, then spun. The finished fiber is silk’s closest man-made competitor for drape and sheen.
Additional advancements were made by the Celanese Corporation in the 1950s with the development of triacetate. This is a cellulosic fiber made with wood pulp, but it contains less cellulose than regular acetate fibers. That means it handles better when washed, it can withstand more agitation and heat without damaging the fibers, and it’s wrinkle resistant. Triacetate is also used to make dresses, skirts, sportswear, and other types of garments where the retention of permanent pleats is important.
I love your comments and questions, so please make my day.
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