Mid 1800’s dress dating and fiber identification

barbarasculati

VFG Member
Any insights for the possible era of this dress ( I was thinking was 1860’s but may be older ) and fiber identification would be greatly appreciated! Entirely hand stitched. A short 12.5 “ from shoulder to waist with a 21” waist. The fabric is a very loose weave with a flocked type motif. The fabric seemed to indicate a cotton as it blazed quickly and smelled like burning paper. The flocked portion was slower to burn, so perhaps that is wool? The fabric had a crispness/ stiffness.
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Interesting. The style looks earlier than 1830's to me, but hard to tell unless seen on a mannequin or dress form. I have never seen flocking on a dress this old, it seems quite odd to me. But then again who knows? Flocking was around, but I have not seen it used for clothing.

Are we seeing the front or the back in your photo?
 
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I am now able to display it on a dress form ( I took a hacksaw to a foam child’s size 7 dress form to reduce the waist to 21”…!) it is shown next to a dress form with approximate 5’5” height for size reference and a hoop skirt/ cotton petticoat added underneath. The opening is at the front.
 

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The red band on the sleeve cuff seems newer- it’s in rather good condition - perhaps the sleeves were altered/ shortened at some point?
 

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What a find!!
With that super dropped shoulder and such a full skirt, I am thinking 1860ish. Is the fabric tarleton? ( super sheer, not unlike cotton cheesecloth, starches and presses up a treat!)
I really think the closures might be at the back . Look at how the sleeves hang -they should angle to the front, not back. I've not seen a dress of this era open in the front with metal hooks, especially a sheer party dress.
Holly
 
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What a find!!
With that super dropped shoulder and such a full skirt, I am thinking 1860ish. Is the fabric tarleton? ( super sheer, not unlike cotton cheesecloth, starches and presses up a treat!)
I really think the closures might be at the back . Look at how the sleeves hang -they should angle to the front, not back. I've not seen a dress of this era open in the front with metal hooks, especially a sheer party dress.
Holly
I agree with Holly - I do believe the hooks/eyes go in the back.
 
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