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I’m seeing princess seams and no waist seam. There’s a kind of flounce going around the skirt and meeting that big bow at the back, and I don’t think there’s a horizontal seam between that and the collar.

Being metal, it’s probably not a replacement. If it had plastic teeth, it would be a replacement. You can tell (sometimes) by looking for stitch lines around the zipper showing that stitches have been removed.

It’s an indication of age. I was wondering if I the zip has been replaced with a modern zip

Great dress. I believe when a train is that long, it’s called a Cathedral train. It looks like it has a side zip, does that have metal teeth?

Items for sale are so often wrongly dated, that it’s not a good place to do research, unless you know that the seller really knows their stuff. Looking at patterns or knitting magazines is a good way to do this. Magazines are often dated so you can be very precise, and patterns if not dated...

I think Maggie meant MO (modus operandi), maybe?

Thank you so much! Maggie/@denisebrain and I had a lot to do with it, with help from a few others and a marvellous web developer. Love your Pendletons!

Definitely not just you! I've never understood how you are meant to search on the pattern wiki and find it really frustrating!

I've never found it easy to find patterns this way either.

The pattern illustrations suggest it's meant to be worn with the straps sitting wider, slightly off-the-shoulder, which would change the way the bodice sits.

What a star you are !

Moderator Note: I have merged your two threads. Welcome to the VFG forums and thanks for sharing your dress.

I wonder if @NylonNostalgia can help with this.

Yes I believe so. I’d be very surprised if that label was 1990s though

And it's really lovely, by the way.

I missed this first time round. Yes agree Made in England is likely to be older, not only because not much is made here any more, but also because if it was made here more recently, labels are more likely to say Made in UK, or Made in Britain. My utterly subjective and unreliable observation is...

It wont' be 1940s with that fabric care label. Much newer

but... is it real silk? Or are they calling it 'pure silk' back when you get away with that for a silky artificial fibre?

Welcome to the forums. I can’t quite make out what’s going on with the waist, in the photos. It’s possible the original label came loose, or was removed to facilitate alterations, and then someone sewed it back on upside down without realising. or it’s possible someone sewed a Valentino...

Yes, more likely, but of course not conclusive.

I've seen overlocking in garments in 30s 40s and 50s garments. It was more common in lingerie, as you say. I've also seen it being used here and there in a garment, rather than on every seam. Eg a 50s dress where most seams are pinked, but then there's overlocking just on the waist seam that...

I've not heard of her either (I'm in the UK). I love Welsh Wool though and that colour is gorgeous.

we want pics!

No but you can see how the logo changes over time. The logo on your label isn't seen before late 70s at the earliest, and then with a box around it. And in the early 90s, it becomes 'St Michael from Marks and Spencer' before stopping altogether around 2000. So this form of the st Michael logo...

We have a label resource entry for st Michael https://vintagefashionguild.org/resources/item/label/st-michael/

Most likely 80s with those labels.

Yes that could well be right

Style wise it looks more 80s to me. Perhaps early 80s? Both tags tell me it's not any newer than 80s.

Prorsum on the flag has been there forever I think. We have examples in the label resource goin back to the 40s, and maybe the 30s though those images aren't so clear. Also the S on Burberrys was dropped in the late 90s AFAIK, so it can't be later than that. The label looks most like the 80s...

Strange, and sorry to hear this. Works really well for me. I hope they weren't too badly damaged?