1930s, 1940s Sport Coat?

EndlessAlley

EndlessAlley

Alumni
I seldom come across sport coats this old and am hoping for help in narrowing the date before listing. Coat finish appears to be a hard finish wool fabric used in the 30s & 40s. I had my husband try the coat on and while it fits through the shoulders he said the underarms were high (30s) and it was tapered through the waist (he couldn't button it - lol). There is a United Garment Workers of America label. But not the "Duck Goods" label that I found on line and the eBay UGWA guide lost all images during an update. Back is unvented and lapels looks smaller like the 40s sport coats. After going through everything my guess is 1940s. :help: (Sorry my UGWA label is upside down)

VFG1.jpg
VFG2.jpg
VFG3.jpg
VFG4.jpg
VFG5.jpg
 
Thanks Susan for the link. I reviewed it before posting and noticed all the labels were all ACWA. I wish they had UGWA as well. Is there a UGWA label section somewhere on the Steelzipper that I missed?

I was wondering about 50s also Barbara, but the shoulder pads have much more of a presence in this coat than my other 50s coats. Did the very early 50s sport coats have large shoulder pads?
 
Thanks Mary Jane. As said before I don't list a lot of men's vintage and the hard finish fabric and shoulder pads threw me. With the votes for 1950s I can move forward with the listing. :USETHUMBUP:
 
I'd say late 40's or early 50's based on the style, skeleton lining, and lack of a vent. The button stance looks a little high to be mid-50's but the narrow lapel is throwing me off. Wide lapels and shoulder pads were common on "Bold Look" suits of the late 40's and early 50's. It is possible that the jacket originally had a wider lapel but was tailored down in the late 50's or 60's. If you can somehow lift the lining on the upper left-hand side of the label, there should be more information to help you date the jacket. A.F. of L. was added to the labels in 1935. If it reads AFL CIO, it was made after 1955.
 
I'd like to date this one as late '40s and agree with realgone that the lapels might have been narrowed in the '50s. I've seen a few like that - if you look at the underside of the lapels, you should be able to tell if they've been reshaped.
 
And so with magnifying glass and seam ripper in hand I started to free the upper left hand side of the UGWA label. It soon became obvious that the person who sewed this label on many years ago must have been paid by the stitch.
But patience, as always, paid off and I soon reveled another clue to the date of this coat.... "A F of L" stared back at me as I lifted the lining!

Thank you for Realgone for this dating tip. Also another question, if you please, regarding your picture from People Will Talk. I see the coat shown has an "extra flapped cash pocket". I have a coat that has a faux "extra flapped cash pocket" and I couldn't find any information when the "faux" look became popular. Would love to know if you know?

Nicole, I compared the construction of the lapels on this coat with other older coats I have and couldn't discern any noticeable difference. But not being a seamstress I could easily overlook the obvious. The collar does appear to have been re-worked though. Coat has 3" lapels. Gosh, I love a good mystery!
 
Alice,

The "extra flapped cash pocket" is a ticket pocket and I think it's a rather nice detail on jackets. I'm not sure when faux ticket pockets were added but I've seen them on a few 50's jackets and quite a few from the 60's and 70's. I'll try to find out for you.

I spoke with another person who is quite knowledgeable about menswear. He also thinks your jacket is from the 40's, would qualify as Bold Look, and the lapels were narrowed in the late 50's or 60's.
 
Wow! Thank you so much for going out of your way to check with another person regarding this jacket, Realgone.
I would love to have the opportunity to spend a week in a "vintage men's clothing" class.

I found the term "extra flapped cash pocket" from 50s archive ads and also saw "ticket pocket" used as well. The jacket I have with ticket pocket also has an ACWA Pre TM registration date label (1949 - 1962). Lapels are a little over 3" so I'm thinking 50s on this one.
 
Melanie, great idea! I never though of creating something through the VFG. Is there a process that proposals go to & through?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top