1930's or 1970's or neither?

[Joanne Walter]

This piece has me stumped. It is a silk velvet fabric identical to a silk velvet 1930's opera coat I own but I'm a little unsure about this piece being 1930's itself. It has a loose fit with no closure and a shirring elasticated gathered waistband as pictured. Also, it has serged / overlocked seams, which I know already existed in the 30's but I'm not sure to what extent. Armhole facings are handsewn down (pictured). The shoulders have two pleats each (pictured) and there is a separate silk velvet decorative appliquéd piece around the neckline and down the centre front that is edged in gold metal thread. The label is in a playbill font - HILITE Regd. Size 38.
Any ideas on locking down an era would be greatly appreciated.

 

[pastperfect2]

That smocked and elasticated waist is looking later than 1930s to me. But it's a puzzler.

 

[northstarvintage]

I can see why you're stumped! I am too!

 

[bycinbyhand]

I don't believe that this is 1930s. Without holding it though, I am not sure whether 70s or early 90s, either of which is possible because of that label and sizing.

 

[Rue_de_la_Paix]

The close up shows, to me, that it is more contemporary.

 

[Joanne Walter]

That smocked and elasticated waist is looking later than 1930s to me. But it's a puzzler.

My thoughts too. The construction reads later, but the fabric is like water. Incredibly soft and beautiful. Another stump is that the construction isn't perfect either. Not like you'd expect a more modern labelled garment to be. And I can't for the life of me find this label anywhere! Hopefully someone out there recognizes it.

 

[retro ruth]

I'm seeing 70s boho. REGD is something I see on UK clothing, and I see that rarely if ever later than 70s, from the 80s onwards you are more likely to see ®, so I don't think it's 90s or later either.

And the size on the label like that, I don't think that was something you'd see in the 30s.

Might it have been a dress, cut and hemmed just below the elastic waist?

ETA , it could just be early 80s too. I vaguely remember this kind of clothing, sold in little hippyish boutiques, probably from quite a small scale maker

 

[poppysvintageclothing]

I am seeing late 60s, early 70s. I remember that kind of velvet being used in a lot of items that were coming from India.

 

[Joanne Walter]

I'm seeing 70s boho. REGD is something I see on UK clothing, and I see that rarely if ever later than 70s, from the 80s onwards you are more likely to see ®, so I don't think it's 90s or later either.

And the size on the label like that, I don't think that was something you'd see in the 30s.

Might it have been a dress, cut and hemmed just below the elastic waist?

ETA , it could just be early 80s too. I vaguely remember this kind of clothing, sold in little hippyish boutiques, probably from quite a small scale maker

Thank you so much! Thats what my gut tells me. I can’t see any evidence of an alteration. But I always saw it as late 70’s until a friend pointed out how exact the fabric is to my 30’s coat and it got me thinking.

 

[retro ruth]

The overlocked seams appear original to me, which makes it unlikely to be of an earlier date. Overlocking did exist back then but wasn't at all common, you tend to mainly see it on lingerie if at all. I don't know if you've burn tested, but it could be rayon velvet rather than silk, they can feel similar.

 

[Joanne Walter]

The overlocked seams appear original to me, which makes it unlikely to be of an earlier date. Overlocking did exist back then but wasn't at all common, you tend to mainly see it on lingerie if at all. I don't know if you've burn tested, but it could be rayon velvet rather than silk, they can feel similar.

I've done a burn test, it's definitely silk - (burnt hair smell, falls to ash, no flame). It's a conundrum why such a lux fabric was made into a garment so poorly. The construction really isn't great. The more I look at it, the more I believe it may actually have been altered from an earlier garment. I've done some label inspection and I should have noticed earlier that the label is actually printed. Something more common from the seventies onward. As the 30's were a huge influence on 70's fashions, I'm coming to the conclusion that this was a 30's piece reborn into something new in the 70's. If only clothes could speak!

 

[retro ruth]

It's certainly not impossible, especially with the silk fabric. It's possible the overlocking was done as part of the transformation. You have it in your hand so I'd trust your gut.

 

[JulieThomas]

Interesting...looks later (e.g. 70s) to me.