1940's Satin Gown or made from vintage pattern?

Vlk94

Vlk94

Registered Guest
Hi everyone!

I was almost confident that this is a 1940's Satin Gown, but I was really just going off of style. I bought it at the same time as I bought a 1980's dress that seemed to use a lot of vintage borrowings, so I wanted to make sure.

Please don't mind the mess. Unfortunately, I photographed in the messiest spot in the apartment (boxes of Christmas decorations!). Also, sorry for the wrinkles. I've never ironed satin on my own, and I'm a little nervous if it is 1940's. I tried steaming it with the shower on, which didn't seem to do much, as well as steaming it with my iron.. which taught me that I don't really know how to use my iron. Oh, it also doesn't zip all the way up my mannequin.. she is sort of hunchback, and I'm in the works of getting a new one.
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Thanks in advance, everyone!

Paige
 
Hi Paige,

I think you were correct on the 1980s date and also probably home sewn from what I can tell. If you iron it, just press on the reverse side and use a pressing cloth to be safe. It looks to be some sort of nylon satin or acetate satin. That bright pink shade was very popular then and the puffed sleeved stlye and big bow in back, popularized by the wedding of Princess Diana and her wedding dress. That was in 1981.

Julia
 
Another vote for 80's. Just a note that the zip again appears to be older (60's) probably from their sewing stash, but it's not the sort you'd expect to find in a 1940's dress (being plastic, with that surf board shaped tag) unless it was replaced. In this sort of dress, if it were 1940's I'd also expect the zip to be in the side so it wasn't visible.
 
Wow! Okay. That's a tad disappointing, but its great to learn! I agree that its pretty!
Thank you everyone!
 
May I ask what did you see about the dress that indicated 1940's to you? I have found reviewing our VFG Fashion History Resources very helpful on clarifying decades.
http://vintagefashionguild.org/fashion-timeline/
I refer to it it after years of being in vintage. If you have an opportunity, compare 1940's rayon satin fabric with 1980's rayon satin fabric. It just feels, handles, and even smells differently. What a pleasure it is to always continue to learn.
Marian
 
Hi Marian! The neckline, v waist & overall style seemed 40s to me.

I'd really like to work more with vintage so I can get more experience with fabrics, and construction. I'll be taking fashion classes that I think will help more with fabrics, and construction & am looking for a book that really focuses on construction, and fabrics.

Somehow I haven't ever looked far into the fashion timeline, but I will now! Thank you!
 
It takes years and lots of experience to be able to identify the eras of clothing and you look very young! There are lots of books that may be of help to you available at your library or even though the VFG shop. Many of our members have written books on all sorts of things such as fashion eras, clothing construction and so on. I think there is even one of the type you are looking for there, but I'd have to look myself :o) Do take advantage of all the inforamtion here on our website as well. The classes you take will be very valuable to you also. There is so much to learn we never stop. Good luck to you!

Julia
 
Lovely gown, Paige, and I agree with an '80s date. That colour was very popular and as Ruth mentioned, it could have been a bridesmaid's dress - these styles and fabrics were very popular during the decade.

Style is only one part of the vintage dating puzzle, so familiarising yourself with fabrics and sewing techniques will help you a great deal. As an example, here is a similar dress I have - you can see the neckline, sleeves and silhouette are like yours and it even has a pointed waist, albeit shallower. This dress is circa '39-41.

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How to tell the real '40s from the '40s revival in the '80s? Here are some clues:
  • the colour - soft, muted shades were more popular in the earlier time, while crimson was big in the '80s.
  • the side metal zipper (you can just see it under my model's arm).
  • the skirt is flared and bias cut rather than gathered - in the '80s, fashions combined elements of '40s and '50s. Early '40s dresses have flared skirts to make best use of scare fabrics.
  • the skirt is floor length - the '80s version is more likely to be mid calf (although sometimes full length versions were worn).
  • the fabric - this takes some practice but the earlier version is made of rayon taffeta whilst the '80s is more likely to use acetate or polyester taffeta (which is what yours looks like). A burn test can help. This dress also has some colour unevenness from the rayon dye.
  • the detailing around the neckline on the earlier dress: older styles generally feature more detailing and a finer finish.
  • the earlier dress also has a period label
  • the sash: another '80s feature. Sashes in '40s dresses when found are not so voluminous.
 
Julia, I spend most of my time reading history of costume books from campuses library, and my personal collection continues to grow! I am quite young, nineteen, but I agree that it just means I have lots to learn, and a lot of time to learn it (as much as I wish I knew it all right now!). I know where I want to be, but unfortunately, I'm having difficulty deciding which route to get there... so far I've been researching on my own, but I'm thinking I should transfer from my university to another that can offer programs I'm interested in. I'm also hoping to get an internship at a vintage store where I live, I feel like there would be a lot to learn there. Thank you for your good luck!

Nicole, thank you for such an info heavy, and helpful post! Very useful, and highly appreciated. Also what a beautiful dress!

Thanks again everyone for your input & help!
 
Thank you, Nicole, for an excellent helpful answer. Silhouette, which you address indirectly, is another decade indicator I would add.
Paige, Bravo to you for discovering the vintage passion so young. Interning at a vintage store with a knowledgeable owner is an excellent idea. Taking a hands on in person course that includes textiles would be also be very helpful. Sometimes textiles are extensively covered in clothing construction or tailoring courses.
Perhaps VFG members have recommendations for courses/programs.
Very best wishes for your vintage future.
Marian
 
Thank you Marian and Vik94 - you're quite right: the silhouette is everything!

I like your idea of interning at a vintage shop but make sure you find someone knowledgeable who likes sharing information - if you were here in Melbourne, Australia I'd recommend that you come and see me as I'm always happy to take on enthusiastic students. I also do talks and workshops, which can be helpful for those who wish to learn more.
 
Back to the pressing issue. I think the seams have a serged finish--multiple threads at the edge to prevent ravelling. When you press, don't press the seams flat against the dress; the threads will leave a pressing imprint. Press under the seams to avoid this.

The seam finish is another way to distinquish 40s and 80s. In the 40s, most were pinked or turned under and stitched. Serging was only used on very cheap items. Home-sewers began buying sergers in the mid 1970s. By the 80s, even very expensive dresses (10,000. and more) had serged finishes.
C
 
Nicole, I wish I were closer! I'm taking a textile course next semester at the technical school in my city. I'm taking others but really looking forward to that one. I wish I could find workshops here, but there isn't much, unfortunately.

Claire, thank you for the advice, and helpful post!

Paige
 
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