1960s (?) Jacket or Blazer in Harris Tweed
- Thread starter laurenm
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Pinkcoke
Alumni
Hi It looks very similar to the Harris Tweed jacket my father wore in the 1960's and I would suggest it is post 1964 by the wording around the top which seems like extra emphasis, you may like to read this post I made recently on the Harris Tweed mark.
That is a more unusual colour mix, very nice.
That is a more unusual colour mix, very nice.
cotmyey
VFG Member
My feelings about:
Blazer/Sport Coat: does not and never had matching pants. I've never used blazer on mens items, I always use Sportcoat and Sport Coat. Some may use blazer.
Suit Jacket: if a seller calls it that, I automatically think that the pants are missing.
Jacket: an outdoor article.
Blazer/Sport Coat: does not and never had matching pants. I've never used blazer on mens items, I always use Sportcoat and Sport Coat. Some may use blazer.
Suit Jacket: if a seller calls it that, I automatically think that the pants are missing.
Jacket: an outdoor article.
Circa Vintage Clothing
Alumni
Yes, I agree with Gayle - a jacket or suit jacket describes the top half of a suit.
For me, a blazer is a lighter sports jacket, a summer weight - and what you have above is a sports jacket, a stand alone item that would have been worn over separates.
For me, a blazer is a lighter sports jacket, a summer weight - and what you have above is a sports jacket, a stand alone item that would have been worn over separates.
jauntyrooster
Alumni
Interesting discussion...
I agree that a sport coat or sport jacket would best describe this tweed jacket and that a suit coat or suit jacket means it is an orphan that has lost its matching trousers.
As far as a blazer, when appropriate, I do use it as a descriptor in my menswear listings. I think most of the gents I know that wear and collect vintage would describe a blazer as having metal buttons (likely either brass or gold-plated) and often associate the term with either a school or regiment garment (i.e. a regimental blazer). A blazer is often a solid color such as red or navy but can be striped (boater stripe is popular) and can be single or double-breasted and often would have a crested pocket. Blazers would never be worn with matched pants and "back in the day" it was preferred that they be worn with either white or gray flannels. There is such a thing as "blazer cloth" which is usually wool flannel.
Here is a very good example of a true blazer:
I agree that a sport coat or sport jacket would best describe this tweed jacket and that a suit coat or suit jacket means it is an orphan that has lost its matching trousers.
As far as a blazer, when appropriate, I do use it as a descriptor in my menswear listings. I think most of the gents I know that wear and collect vintage would describe a blazer as having metal buttons (likely either brass or gold-plated) and often associate the term with either a school or regiment garment (i.e. a regimental blazer). A blazer is often a solid color such as red or navy but can be striped (boater stripe is popular) and can be single or double-breasted and often would have a crested pocket. Blazers would never be worn with matched pants and "back in the day" it was preferred that they be worn with either white or gray flannels. There is such a thing as "blazer cloth" which is usually wool flannel.
Here is a very good example of a true blazer:
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laurenm
Registered Guest
Thanks to you all....
It is a really 'warm' tweed in person. Also came upon the term 'Hacking Jacket" when looking for definitions as well as a 'shooting' jacket....so do the elbow patches on jackets make it a 'sport jacket'?
and Melanie, you have me very curious about the 'urine connection'....
It is a really 'warm' tweed in person. Also came upon the term 'Hacking Jacket" when looking for definitions as well as a 'shooting' jacket....so do the elbow patches on jackets make it a 'sport jacket'?
and Melanie, you have me very curious about the 'urine connection'....
I think elbow patches are just reinforcements on jacket of any style that has worn out on the elbows, where a jacket will get particular stress. Though you sometimes get them already in place on new jackets, this is more of a fashion thing. Traditionally they are just a way of making a good jacket last longer. Though it's not something you would do to a formal jacket, so yes it's more associated with various kinds of sports or casual jackets in hard wearing fabrics such as tweed or corduroy.
A hacking jacket is for hacking (riding a horse) and a shooting jacket is for shooting. Sounds obvious, but the point being that each will have certain characteristics relevant to that sport, eg a shooting jacket may have pleats allowing for ease in raising the arm, hacking jackets have splits/vents designed for sitting in the saddle. Both are a type of sports coat, in the sense of country sports.
This is my understanding of the terms anyway. You often see sellers using terms like hacking and shooting on jackets that aren't true examples of the style.
A hacking jacket is for hacking (riding a horse) and a shooting jacket is for shooting. Sounds obvious, but the point being that each will have certain characteristics relevant to that sport, eg a shooting jacket may have pleats allowing for ease in raising the arm, hacking jackets have splits/vents designed for sitting in the saddle. Both are a type of sports coat, in the sense of country sports.
This is my understanding of the terms anyway. You often see sellers using terms like hacking and shooting on jackets that aren't true examples of the style.
Oh and urine was traditionally used in tweed making for its ammonia content.
Urine was used for various cleaning applications in less squeamish days.
http://www.smithsonianmag.com/scien...science-behind-historic-uses-of-urine-442390/
Urine was used for various cleaning applications in less squeamish days.
http://www.smithsonianmag.com/scien...science-behind-historic-uses-of-urine-442390/
jauntyrooster
Alumni
Just to delve a bit deeper and play off of Ruth's info above...
A hacking jacket is indeed a riding jacket and many designers have taken the style and used it to create popular menswear fashions through the eras (Ralph Lauren). It is tailored and will have a closely fitted body with a longer, flared skirt and higher set armholes. A hacking jacket will have traditional "hacking pockets" that are flapped and positioned on a slant and will also often have a ticket pocket. True hacking jackets always have a center vent and a three or four button front. This is one of the menswear styles that is is considered correct to wear the jacket fully buttoned (mandatory when riding).
Shooting jackets styles can vary greatly and have changed quite a bit through the years. You should see a telltale leather shoulder pad (often called a recoil pad) and frequently bellows-pleat pockets (to hold lots of ammo) but otherwise styles can vary greatly with shooting jackets. There are some really great styles out there and if you get a chance to read up on the history of them (and are interested in menswear), I highly recommend.
Although I do agree with Ruth that elbow patches were used to shore up fabrics as an addition to sport coats, they were also very popular as a fashion on tweeds and corduroys jackets and came original to the sport coats. It is generally easy (although not always) to tell if they are original or a later addition if you look closely at the thread and sewing job.
A hacking jacket is indeed a riding jacket and many designers have taken the style and used it to create popular menswear fashions through the eras (Ralph Lauren). It is tailored and will have a closely fitted body with a longer, flared skirt and higher set armholes. A hacking jacket will have traditional "hacking pockets" that are flapped and positioned on a slant and will also often have a ticket pocket. True hacking jackets always have a center vent and a three or four button front. This is one of the menswear styles that is is considered correct to wear the jacket fully buttoned (mandatory when riding).
Shooting jackets styles can vary greatly and have changed quite a bit through the years. You should see a telltale leather shoulder pad (often called a recoil pad) and frequently bellows-pleat pockets (to hold lots of ammo) but otherwise styles can vary greatly with shooting jackets. There are some really great styles out there and if you get a chance to read up on the history of them (and are interested in menswear), I highly recommend.
Although I do agree with Ruth that elbow patches were used to shore up fabrics as an addition to sport coats, they were also very popular as a fashion on tweeds and corduroys jackets and came original to the sport coats. It is generally easy (although not always) to tell if they are original or a later addition if you look closely at the thread and sewing job.
I thought you'd have more to add Maureen! Great info.
laurenm
Registered Guest
okay, so speaking of Ralph Lauren and jackets....I just so happened to want to get help dating this one....which I think is early ate 80s or early 90s??? and it has a strange back...so would you all consider this a sports jacket or a Hacking jacket or none of the above?
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jauntyrooster
Alumni
A belted back sport coat with a throat latch...not hacking or shooting. Could even be later than 90s...I can't remember when RL was mfg in Macau. Would probably sell very well on eBay.
Belted backs are fairly popular right now. If you look at earlier eras, say 70s and earlier, you will see that the belts are higher up on the backs than this one. Both Pendleton and RL made belted backs with lower belts starting in the 80s.
Belted backs are fairly popular right now. If you look at earlier eras, say 70s and earlier, you will see that the belts are higher up on the backs than this one. Both Pendleton and RL made belted backs with lower belts starting in the 80s.