1960s Silk "Old Masters" Handbags - Fabric Expertise Wanted

Vintagepursegal

Vintagepursegal

VFG Member
Hey there! I'm looking for someone to properly identify the process used to make the fabric print on silk "Old Masters" handbags, which were reproductions of museum artworks. Sounds niche, but quite a lot were produced. I'm writing an article about these for The Vintage Purse Museum website. Some sources (including old newspaper ads) indicate these are "hand screened" (silkscreened), but I want to make sure that there wasn't another process that could've created this fabric before I state this with certainty, or at least more-than-likelihood. The fabric was primarily made in Italy starting in about 1961, and a number of US handbag makers either imported the fabric to be attached to bags in-house, or they imported the complete bags. I've reached out to several Italian silkscreen companies that have been in business for decades, but haven't gotten an answer. I also contacted a textile artists' organization, but they told me to try Facebook groups. I included photos of two from our collection, which I realize isn't ideal since you can't see the fabric up close or touch it. However, I'm hoping someone can give me an overview of the printing process that was more than likely used to make this fabric in the 1960s. Happy to credit you in the article. (All info on The Vintage Purse Museum page is accessible to the public for free. I like to include handbag construction processes whenever possible and always try to get it directly from the experts.) Thank you!
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Thank you! Yep, it's super important to me that I verify this kind of stuff, especially since I'm definitely no expert on textiles. I was really lucky to get manufacturing details from relatives of bag makers for my articles about corde and coil "telephone cord" bags. These silk bags are confusing because of the differing verbiage in the old ads. I was hoping one of the Italian silkscreen companies would get back to me and say something like, "we used a certain type of machine (or technique) 60 years ago." I also messaged one of the major makers of these handbags because they're still in business, and family owned, but didn't get an answer. The good news is that I learned that this "Old Masters" trend was more than just about purses. It was in apparel and home decor, too.
 
I do remember back in the 1970s that I used to frequent a shop for gifts in a high end mall and apartment complex in the westmount area of Montreal called Westmount square - the architect was Mies van der Rohe. I purchased wallets like this to give as gifts to my mom and grandmother. The shop was called the Florentine shop and it was all Italian imports. I liked the fact that this high end shop had a variety of pricing so you could still find something lovely in your price range. They had throw cushions like this as well. They had a lot of wood plaques as well that had an off white background with gilded edges with scenes or portraits similar to the purse scenes.

Wish I could be of more help with helping you id the process. Thank you for bringing back a fond memory.
 
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How fabulous! Your description is so vivid that I can see it! I found a number of 1960s references to Old Masters used in home decor and other clothing items, and even one that talked about celebrity hairstyles mimicking those of the women in these paintings. My mom did needlepoints of Old Masters' artworks in the 1970s. I'm thinking a handbag maker or maker's rep went to Italy and saw other products with these fabrics and thought they'd be great on their bags. Still got some feelers out there with relatives of bag makers, so maybe someone can verify this.
 
This is a very interesting journey of discovery that you are on. I have had a few Old Masters items over the years and my mom had a few also in the 1960s (at least 1960s is my memory of it). I have had fabric covered compacts, eyeglass cases, small vanity bags, a 3 compartment vanity box for stockings or hankies, and more than a number of those wooden decoupage plaques or small boxes with gilt edges. I have never come across one of the purses in my travels and would love to have one of those.
 
They're definitely out there in the wild! I usually write articles about bag makers, but I've done a few about specific materials (corde, Czech wood beads, plastics) and it's always a much deeper dive than I imagined. Today I reached out to a bag maker (second time, different email address) that made these in the 1960s, so I hope they have some info.
 
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