20's Deco velvet dress - how to stop bead loss?

bigchief

bigchief

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20\'s Deco velvet dress - how to stop bead loss?

This dress is one of 3 I have that belonged to a Great Aunt of mine. They were stored in a manner that's sure to bring a collective shudder - in a cardboard box. A heavy, storage-grade box from an old Pittsburgh dress shop - but still. They've been in that box for at least 45 years.

Remarkably the condition issues I've found don't seem to be a result of bad storage.

Dress #1 - deep coral velvet (silk, I think, not rayon - but I'm not sure) with Deco design in cut steel (?) beads. Many beads are gone, some I've found in the storage box - but there are many broken threads so they continue to take leave of the dress. <b> Some of the threads are too short to knot to stop any additional bead loss - what's the best way to do this?</b>

<img src="http://image.inkfrog.com/pix/bigchief/velbeadvfg.jpg" width=640 height=1106>

I'm hoping to sell this as a study piece, but I'd love to be able to include more beads on the dress, fewer in an accompanying envelope :)

TIA for your help,

Carolyn
 
P.S. It goes without saying that I'm not a genius with a needle and thread, but it did occur to me to knot a new piece of thread to the existing broken ones and knot that. Another possible remedy - totally DIY - also crossed my mind, but I'd love to know the correct way to do this :)

Carolyn
 
I think re-stitching would be the only way, Carolyn...one by one or a series of a few (5-6) at a time.

And use a beading needle so that you can run new thread through the ones that are still attached so you can reinforce them. Regular needles are too thick.

I always pull my thread through beeswax before beading.

The dress looks better than a study piece to me.

Brenda
 
Carolyn
that is a magnificent dress and deserves the best. Get an embroidery hoop to hold the portions you are sewing taut. Put tissue paper between the hoop and the fabric to prevent marking. Get beading needles and be sure and sew those beads back with proper cotten thread rather then polyester. Wish I lived near you I would replace them just to check out the dress LOL and yes I am handy with a needle.
Louise
 
Actually, storing it in a box (and not by hanging) is the *best* thing for this dress - generally, the weight of the beads & fabric places too much stress on the shoulders and on the fabric itself, the effects of gravity can be harsh! - it is the most common way dresses of this period are ruined.

From the sheen of the fabric, and the dating of this dress, I would think it is silk velvet - once you feel it and compare to a rayon or modern velvet, you can quickly tell the difference.

The beaded decoration is a lovely Art Deco design - and I wouldn't worry too much about the loss of some beads.
Personally, as a buyer, I would prefer to get the dress As Is, with loose beads in an envelope.

Having said that - from your images there is NO WAY the dress is a mere study piece! - and it should sell for a remarkably good price even with the flaws noted.
 
Since the thread that was used to sew the beads in place is deteriorating, trying to re-sew the beads with the existing thread will be a futile effort. It's probably silk thread, which is what I would use if I were going to re-sew the beads.

I agree with Margaret - let your buyer do the restoration. Buyers of this type of garment are famliar with re-sewing beads, and probably have their own way of doing it. I would show a picture of all the loose beads in the auction, and state that more may fall off during the stress of shipping.

This is absolutely stunning, Carolyn! Don't forget to add the label to the resource thread!

Jody
 
If you are going to sell, I agree that I would sell it as is and include all the beads in a small baggie. I would also ship the dress wrapped in tissue and set into a bag so that if more beads come off in transit, they will be findable.

Restitching them with a beading needle is really the only option. It's time consuming and does require a light hand so you don't pull more off.

If you do list it, plaese let me know when

Hollis
 
How fantastic! That's so cool that you still have the beads. A ziplock bag may be your best friend on this one.

Jenn
 
Thank you all for your advice!

By necessity I must go the "sell as-is" route - I only attempt the smallest mends, and then only with the attitude that if it looks awful I can undo my 'handiwork' - which means I avoid attacking anything fragile ('attack' is not just an expression here). I know my limitations and this dress and its issues are clearly beyond them. Louise, I'm sorry you're so far away - this project would be <i>fun</i> for you! I envy you your skill, and your patience even more :)

I'm not even sure how to photograph this for auction - I held my breath just getting it on that hanger. I don't see putting it on my manneqin - I could, I suppose, but that just doesn't seem like the right presentation. I have a dress form, but it's the jersey-covered kind - I put a 20's sheer chiffon Deco beaded dress (a recent purchase) on it the other day - what a nightmare that jersey is, the way fabric 'sticks' to it! A muslin-covered form is the only way. I've been pining for a Wolf form for years now, and after working with these dresses I think I'm ready to take the plunge.

I suppose this dress wouldn't be quite as maddening to shoot on the dress form as the chiffon was... I guess I'll figure it out:)

<b>A couple more questions:</b>

- I'm certain I don't have all the missing beads. Similar ones are available, aren't they? Not easy (or cheap) to acquire maybe, but they're out there, yes?

- Price. What might be a reasonable opening bid? Would a reserve be in order? I wouldn't think so, but I have so little experience with this sort of garment I'm going on the assumption that the only stupid questions are the ones I don't ask.

<b>Jody</b> - Believe it or not, the label is already in the Resource! It's amazing how fast it's growing - a new label gets posted here and in the blink of an eye - it's in there. Lizzie has Super Powers - there's no other explanation.

<b>Margaret</b> - Re: storage, you're so right about keeping heavily beaded items folded rather than on hangers - but I'm sure the box these were in is not acid-free - and they were in there a good long while. No tissue (maybe that was all to the good) no nothing. I do know where the box has been these past 20+ years though - a room that's dry, but not too, and the temp. in there probably doesn't vary more than a few degrees from season to season.

<b>Hollis</b> - Of course I'll let you know when I list this. I'm planning to list Aunt Louise's other two dresses at the same time along with my 'new' beaded chiffon/flapper number. You'll see all of them here (with questions!) before they're listed. And I pack everything in tissue in a clear plastic bag - not sealed, as I worry about a tiny bit of moisture wreaking havoc if the package isn't opened promptly, esp. in hot weather - but taped closed, with just a bit of 'breathing room'. I'm not worried about bead loss once the dress leaves my house - it's what happens <i>before</i> that concerns me!

Again, I can't thank you all enough for your help. I so rarely deal with things from this time period, your advice is invaluable.

:)

Carolyn
 
Carolyn
Those beads are vintage and different to todays ones in texture and colour. However vintage ones do turn up. I myself have a large bagful of mixed beads. Are those beads metal or glass? they look like they might be metal from the sheen. I advise against displaying on a manniquin as the weight of the dress could cause further damage. Please let me know when you list this magnificent piece as I'm trying to convince myself that I cannot wear it LOL. I'm sure it will fetch a high price as it rare to find such a beautiful distinctive piece from that period. I'm just so sorry I can't do the restoration as I love sewing and recently rebeaded a vintage Jean Muir dress.
Louise
 
Carolyn, everyone here has already given great advice as to the beads and I agree whole-heartedly - this is not a study piece! Rethreading the beads is an horrendous job, and selling as is would be what I would do too
(and I sew). I have a cocoon coat that is in excellent condition body-wise, but everytime you look at it, more beads come off - unfortunately the
thread is going, so it would be quite a job to reattach all of them (something that I just don't have the time to do).

This dress is gorgeous with the deep red and black! Is the velvet
strong?

Sue
 
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