50s dress: Middle Eastern-inspired? Advice on care?

Midge

Midge

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Time again for me to ask some questions! I have not only been on an online vintage shopping spree, but have also just spent another weekend in Vienna. It was a surprise weekend trip sponsored by our company for the team I work with - sort of "lets-get-together-outside-the-office/thanks-for-the-hard-work".

I managed to meet up with my friend too and we headed straight for one of our favorite thrift shops. Whereas I hadn't found there what I'd come looking for just a month ago when I was there, this time they had all the autumn wear out, and I was lucky. What hung limp and creased on a hanger and caught my eye just because of it's rich color, turned out to be utterly gorgeous when I tried it on. Plus it fits as if it were made for me. I fell in love instantly :fainting: !

It will need quite a bit of TLC and repair work by hand, but I'm confident I can make it wearable again - I won't wear it heavily and it will last as long as it lasts.

But I do have a few questions...

50ssilkdress1.jpg

I guess it's 50s, and I *think* it's silk. The color is beautiful and rich, though the fabric is very soft and delicate - snags easily and the weave is not very tight.

50ssilkdress2.jpg

What would you call this print/pattern? It reminds me of somehow of Middle Eastern carpets :BAGUSE:. I haven't seen anything like this before and am just wondering what it is. The borders on the skirt are not sewn on, the fabric is printed like this.

There are no labels anywhere - my guess is it was made by a seamstress or a skilled home-sewer.

50ssilkdress4.jpg

Two neatly hand-stitched eyes hook up with metal hooks (of which one has been replaced) in the waist-area.

50ssilkdress5.jpg

Buttonholes seem to be hand sewn - very neat!

50ssilkdress3.jpg


50ssilkdress6.jpg

A look at the construction inside. Waistband, and lots of seam allowance. The lining is probably rayon and completely sewn together with the outer fabric - even the darts are sewn with both fabrics together. I guess that that is because of the delicate outer fabric?

My last question is regarding the care... it doesn't smell, there's a bit of underarm staining on the lining inside, and the collar looks like it could take a bit of cleaning - from being worn next to the skin I guess, the way collars get dirty. Otherwise, no staining. As the outside fabric is so delicate, I am hesitating to give it to a dry-cleaner, even if it's a good one. Do you think I could gently wash it by hand? I have dabbed a little bit with a white cloth on the inside seam allowance, and it looks like the color doesn't run.

Thanks for all info & advice!

Karin
 
Stylistically, the dress is very conservative - it's essentially a classic 50's shirtwaist, however the fabric looks to me like its an Indian silk. I wouldn't wash it. The construction and finishing is excellent. It looks like it was done by a couturier who was trained in the proper methods of sewing and finishing.
 
Beautiful. I agree with Jonathan, '50's shirtwaist beautifully made from Indian silk - and don't wash it. Show us a photo of you in it - gorgeous with your coloring and hair, Karin!

Linn
 
Thanks a lot everybody! India - I admit I hadn't thought that "far"! But it seems fitting - I love the rich color of Indian silks, and I adore Indian (Bollywood) movies.

Is this a more common or unusual thing to find a 50s dress made from Indian silk?

I will repair the dress, and take to the dry-cleaners - I have Monday off work, and if I have it repaired til then, I'll take it across town to the dry-cleaners who have cleaned some of my vintage stuff before. It's rather out of the way, but that's the one to take it to in this case I guess.

When it's all done, I'll post some pics of me in it :D. I just saw the color first in the shop and picked it because of that. It's the shade of blue that suits me best I think. I have a modern Vietnamese silk top in the same shade, which I get loads of compliments for when I wear it.

Karin
 
Love it, what a great find! I'd be so happy to come across that in a thrift. Agreeing with the Indian vibe, though I'm not sure I see classic paisley.

on the question of how common it was, I have little extensive knowledge, but I have seen other examples of this kind of thing from the mid -late fifties. For example, catbooks1940s once sold an absolutely beautiful full shirtwaist silk dress by Greta Plattry, with a kind of rich 'carpet' or medallion pattern that's not a million miles away from this. I missed out on it, as it went high, but I still remember how splendid it was.

I also have a catalogue picture on file of 'exotic' prints from the 50s; again, in relatively conservative dresses. I'll have a root around and see if I can find it. I have a suspicion I lifted it from these forums in the first place, and it might have been Lizzie's scan. Perhaps if I post it, the originator can claim it!
 
This is the image I was thinking of, dress on the right. Does this make sense to everyone as a decent comparison? Many apologies to whomever originally scanned this, but your labour is showing longterm dividends!
 
@Vintage-voyager - I though of you once I took a closer look at the fabric and hoped you'd chime in too :spin: . Oh it's so interesting what one finds! I think, with a fabric like this, a simple cut is all it needs - the fabric really makes the dress, so it doesn't need a lot of frou-frou :duh: .

It would be interesting to see that catalogue picture. Even though I buy vintage just to wear myself, I want to learn more about what I have.

I can imagine that a dress like this in good condition, and if possible with a designer name, can go through the roof price-wise. It's so wearable and flattering - and spectacular. That shop I bought it at has a tendency to over-price "trendy" vintage stuff a bit even when in not so good condition, but I think in this case, the bargain was on me - I paid just 26 Euros for this dress.

Karin
 
wow, 26 euros for that?! High five!!!

I know what you mean about spotting fabrics or colours first. It's quite often the case that vintage tones jump out of the rack, however crumpled the garment. Love it that this dress went to someone who appreciates it so much.
 
Thanks. I've started repairing it... I don't think I'll wear it often... there are so many snags in the fabric, and it's so easy to rip the silk out of the seams. In certain places it's even more delicate than I had thought. Uh, I think I have set myself a huuuge task!

Karin
 
Originally posted by Midge
Thanks. I've started repairing it... I don't think I'll wear it often... there are so many snags in the fabric, and it's so easy to rip the silk out of the seams. In certain places it's even more delicate than I had thought. Uh, I think I have set myself a huuuge task!

Karin
Click to expand...
Very beautiful, very elegant to wear, to be sure, if I am, I will wear it
 
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