A new round of "Guess the Designer"

MyVintageCocktail

MyVintageCocktail

VFG Member
A new round of \"Guess the Designer\"

Well, this has always been a fun topic here, and here it is again. I recently bought this, the seller's description being that there were "no" tags on it. So, I've had it for a couple months now and had time only to unpack it, check it for any overlooked flaws, shake it out, and hang it up. I was thrilled with it--near-perfect condition, exceptionally high-quality silk fabric, etc. Last night I had cause to get it out and do some quick photos on it, and lo & behold, imagine my delight when I discovered a "known" designer's label on it.

Can we guess who? (Oh, and excuse the pics--I didn't even steam or iron it for the purpose I needed it for.) And, btw, can someone confirm dating on this? I think late 40s/early 50s.

If you can't see it, the center of the skirt has a deep inverted pleat that originates at the waist and on-seam pockets either side. This designer often does pleating at hip or waistline, though not always in the same place, but almost always did on-seam pockets during this timeframe. Also has side metal zip. Hint: this designer is NOT what one would call a household name. But I think most or many vinties will know the name, if not recognize the work.

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Yes, Jonathan, you get another guess!

Another hint: this designer had a small, NYC-based house, and also designed under his/her own label for some upscale dept stores. Is not as well known as some of the designers you've mentioned, but, IMHO, the early work belongs up there with some of them.

I'm finding your answers fascinating, because I adore this designer and feel his/her work is underrated. But you guys "get" it about the work. You probably won't say "Oh, I shoulda known" when the name is guessed or revealed, though. Although some of you may, one or two folks here in particular I'm thinking of.
 
Okay, well I was going to say Hattie Carnegie as my other guess as well, but since that wasn't it and I do get another guess I am going to say Oleg Cassini
 
Ok, this person is not as well known as most of the others, though I think some would recognize him/her as readily as would recognize, say, Adele Simpson or Traina Norell (me being one of them!). Nowhere near as well known as Carnegie, though I can see why some have made that guess (I see the influence), or the Suzy Perette label.
Not Cassini, either.

More hints: This person most often used silks, as far as I can tell, and though missing on this dress, very often featured little self-fabric bows in various places (not frilly frou-frou, but wisely placed sophisticated bows). Other serious fans of him/her might recognize this as a giveaway!

I believe this person designed from the 40s through the late 60s or early 70s. The early work, pre-1960s, was fabulous (IMHO!), but like many designers of that era, the 60's stuff not so much, though I've seen 1 or 2 top-notch 60's from this person). This person's work is often seen on private, usually upscale web sites, but is not widely available. Several of us here have had at least one piece by him/her.

(This may have been too obscure; my apologies if so. But if it gets folks to noticing this person's work, so much the better!)
 
From the looks of the dress - the narrow waist, the front upper buttons, and the full skirt, the great color and styling - I would have said Ann Fogarty but I don't know if she used silk persay as a mainstay fabric.
 
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