Another *mystery model* ~ field of gold brocade?

N

noir_boudoir

Registered Guest
Quick pics for the time being - I need to press/steam this a little before doing the proper pictures.

But just wanted to air this one in case anyone has thoughts.

Seen a 'Chavent Model' before anywhere??

Side metal 'Lightning' zip, floor length, quite a generous size - the style (as any long brocade thing does) is saying early 60s to me, but please disagree if you have any other suggestions...

<img src="http://gallery.noirboudoir.com/itempics/chaventmodelside.jpg" height=600>

Two diamante decorative buttons on the front - a really flattering shape, I think...
<img src="http://gallery.noirboudoir.com/itempics/chaventmodelclose.jpg">

:cool:

L
 
I'm not familiar with the brand name but from what I can see, early 60's is about right. That's great fabric, by the way.
Connie
 
yes, I seem to be on a bit of a brocade roll at the moment - I'm hoping that the rumours that it's back in for Fall really <i>are</i> true, so that I can do a little brocade parade (ho ho).

I also recently turned up some beautiful brocade/lurex-ish early 60s evening slingback slippers made for Russell and Bromley by Bally, Norwich - they've even got the style name both stamped and written on them 'Moondust'. Lovely.

(another bad pic, sorry)

<img src="http://gallery.noirboudoir.com/itempics/moondust.jpg" height=350>
<img src="http://gallery.noirboudoir.com/itempics/moondustname.jpg" height=300>

It would be amazing if someone fit both one of my golden brocade gowns and the slippers (which aren't tiny, for once), then they'd be a glittering vision!

But then it'd probably be more tasteful if they were worn with my neat little black velvet 60s shift dress... Taste? Schmaste.

:BAGUSE:

Incidentally, there's no location marked on this label, but from the materials used and how it's put together, I have a suspicion it's probably from a regional dressmaker - say a local posh shop following the fashions. I may add it to the 'Sticks 'n' Suburbs' thread.

L
 
Interesting... I've just found this in an old Ebay listing through Google:

----
"This GOLD BROCADE EVENING DRESS dates from the late 1960’s. Made by Chavent, and bought in London, it was a designer label of its time... It has a stiffening lining to knee-length, and a side zip.. The hem at the front is slightly curved towards the middle seam and this lightens the whole design...
See the Gold Brocade shoes, size 6 ½ that would match brilliantly, (not exactly) in the other items I’m selling"
----

Freaky! Definitely not like mine, though (and a v. small size).

Now I'm beginning to wonder if 'Chavent' was a London shop. A French name, but it really doesn't look like a French label. Everyone throws around the 'designer' attribution for so much vintage, so I'm not sure how much to take seriously in this...

L
 
Gosh, that is a lovely dress. I thought brocade was back for the Spring, too. Have a little coat I was about to list.
 
Hmmm...maybe it was French.

That is such a stunner...and the shoes are great too. And who cares about taste if someone looks gorgeous, right?

BTW..what is the story with...i know there was a Carnegie Models as well. "Model" in the label...are they marketed to make ladies believe they will look like models or is there some mysterious locale named Model (accent over the "e" in Spain or in France shortened from Modelle)

inane thoughts, really.
 
Not inane Chris!

Brocade's in for spring/summer too, Linda? Better get paradin'...

Now I don't have the precise cultural background to <b>'Model'</b> 'cos I haven't formally studied fashion history, but I can give you an idea:

It's a very common term to find on British labels of the 30s-50s, but was in use with reference to clothing earlier than that.

You also get <i>'Modéle'</i> on French labels, from which the English fashion usage may have been most directly derived.

(Which is why I assumed this Chavent label is ultimately English, Chris, it's not the French spelling - although that's not ruling out that the place's founder might have been French, hence the name).

Debenhams advertises their 'Model Gown Department' in the 30s. I don't know for certain the precise derivation (but see the OED definition, below), but I'm thinking it carries implications of being an original creation to be copied, along with shades of 'the newest thing'.

Hence, the contemporary US label usage parallel might be all those many 'Originals' labels, of which many fell away after the 40s.

During the mid-late 50s, many of the British firms moved away from that 'model' terminology, for some reason. By that time, 'a London Town model, created by London Town' became 'London Town, Made in Mayfair'. 'Carnegie Models' of the 50s variety can be found, whereas yer c.1959-1960s gowns are labelled 'Carnegie of London'. Similarly with 'Binnie Model'-->'Binnie, London'.

I suppose the overall context must have been that 'Model' had become an archaic and non-cutting edge term. It's possible that such wide brand-name usage of a once-prestigious term just sapped it of its meaning too.

Also, I'm aware that copyright assertion over designs in fashion stepped up in a big way during the 50s and 60s - I wonder when all those 50s Vogue spreads saying 'Suzy Perette copying a design by Balenciaga' had to stop..? So I'm totally guessing that the 'Original/Copy' assertion may have become less relevant - so why call your gown a 'model'?


Woah. Went on a bit. Sorry!

Hope this helps!
L

OED definition - 'Model' - implying that this usage <i>does</i> originate in Parisian terminology. The first citation might be American, the others are British. Only one later citation (1975, with a different meaning) is included in the OED entry.

Note that all the citations use the word with the meaning 'new, original, authentic' ie. imports or new designs, not our versions of them...

d.<u> An article of clothing of a particular style, which is produced for show by a designer, or fashionable in a particular season, etc.</u> <i>
<b>1859</b> Southern Lit. Messenger Jan. 14/2 A quarter of a yard longer at the bottom, and as much shorter at the top, than the Parisian models.
<b>1880</b> Queen 12 June (advt.) Messrs Jay import from the first houses in Paris. Models of every style.
<b>1906</b> Bazaar, Exchange & Mart Suppl. 3 Oct. 1308/1 Great bargains in ladies' wearing apparel, new and equal to new. Paris models.
<b>1933</b> N. COWARD Design for Living I. 22 A silly pride made me..parade my attraction for you, like a mannequin [ie. a live model, not plastic - ed]. New spring model, with a few extra flounces!

ps. we've got the London Town Model label for that entry now! It'll give you an idea of the transition.
 
So "model" as in the other usage of the word... not like the cache of "fashion model" but model as in "the Ford Edsel model" or the "GE dishwasher...the special extra quiet model" more or less a very broad comparison i know. I know what you mean, but my examples are poor. The idea was probably adapted to common use to mean to differntiate the style of an item compared to others and got the "newness" connotation from the fashion industry but things were lost along the way.

Or the "model as to what other designs would follow/copy but this was the only ORIGINAL" and then the word meandered
 
Yep, basically, it carries overtones of being an exclusive, designer production, rather than a 'me too' trend copy...

I think.

In a sense, usage of it on the label is perhaps an indication of being not-quite-couturier.

I'm not aware of British 'name' designers of the period putting 'model' on their RTW labels, even though their establishments might reasonably be referred to as 'model houses' since they naturally produced original, new gown designs.

But firms that weren't perhaps the very peak of high-guineau-priced-trousseau-buying <i>did</i> assert their own designer credentials by labelling their products a 'model'.

And the question of how original a 'model' gown by one of these places was may also be moot. Perhaps 'model' by this period did end up meaning 'couturier-inspired' as a lot of their lines were... I think that London Town brochure gives an idea - you know, stocked in ultra-posh Harvey Nichols, given their own collection brochure, but all Parisian couturier-inspired...

That's a hypothetical sketch by the way, but I think it could be close...

L
 
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