Any luck selling items with the dreaded acetate underarm discolorations?

spacepopvintage

spacepopvintage

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Hi,

I was just wondering how you all feel about selling items that have acetate linings with underarm discolorations. I have not had any luck selling these so far and wonder if it's worth the effort. It's a shame too, because I have some very pretty dresses and suits with this problem.

Thank you!

Kim
 
I think the underarm ick factor plays a role in not being able to move these items. Most people are more forgiving of discolorations if they are in other areas such as around the hem, etc. If I see an item with fade in the underarms I don't buy it.
 
If it's color only and lining only, I (wearing my buyer's hat) would not be deterred.
 
Usually the underarm stain is not actually sweat or dirt but a chemical reaction? I am not perfectly sure how to describe this, but I am sure the specialists could pipe in

If the underarm smells of body odor, then if you are able, may I suggest a soak in vinegar

I have had much success removing underarm stains using a variety of cleaning processes, all according to fabric & colour, Engleside Restoration (a powder similar to oxy, created for valuable antique fabric, no acids, chlorine or phosphates) & Oxy on suitable fabrics

Washing underarms not suggested on coloured vintage fabrics with lighter lining or visa versa (I have learnt that the hard way) for valuable items I have removed the soiled area to wash seperately & sewn them back in place.

or just list it as is, aslong as no body odor...I think thats for the die hard vinties!!!!
 
Acetate is fairly notorious for color turn and it is a chemical reaction. Vintage dyes were unstable and body heat was a factor, I think. Also, gas from home heating contributes to dye change, where dark colors go to a reddish brown.
 
Hi,
I know that acetate is notorious for the chemical reaction thing (you could look at it wrong and it turns colors : )
None of the items I'm thinking of have an odor, just a change in color. I think people are grossed out by the look of it, so they don't buy. If they have never been sellers, they probably don't know that it's frequently just a chemical reaction.

I have several 50's party dresses made of velveteen, a sleeveless red chiffon, a cool 60's brown faux fur dress and an aqua/black suit - all with the same issue. It's a shame that they aren't being worn by someone. Naturally, I would expect a price reduction if I were a customer.

I was not familiar with Engleside Restoration (but just looked it up). As for soaking, I have used Biz the most, but have also tried Borax and Oxy (though Oxy lightened a vintage pink quilt). I know Joules swears by Retroclean, but I have yet to try it.

As always, I appreciate the comments and info I receive on this helpful site : )

Kim
 
Kim, on some colors you can use a permanent fabric marker to re-color the areas. I've had luck with black, dark blue, and brown. For beige, tan, or brown, you can use a "wash" of weak tea or coffee and lightly swab or brush it on till you get the right color. And it doesn't have to match exactly; if you can succeed in at least minimizing the color difference, blending or feathering in around the edges, you can get an excellent result!
 
Laura, the one problem with using coffee as a colorant is that you can get a coffee odor to the fabric, but I've used Febreze and aired the item out and it seems to alleviate that problem. Tea is better, but may not darken enough.
 
On most fabrics the color you see is from the oxidized stain where some sort of bodily fluid remained in the fabric. We see it a lot on kids stuff in my Mom's consignment shop...a gal brings in her stuff that she knew she washed before putting it away, and we pull it out to inspect and it has all these dribbley spots on the front. You're all familiar with the dribble zones on babies, right? :drooling22:
Well, she washed, yes, and good enough for the next wear and drool session, but the stain was not fully removed, and over time/heat/exposure to the ebb and tide of household temps and humidities, that wee bit of milky dribble has magically reappeared. The same holds true for the vintage stuff. It wasn't that Peggy Sue was an uber- sweater (and in the AC free 50s, she probably was at least damp on occasion), it's just that the laundering did not remove ALL of the persp before she put the dress away.

I think the important thing is to take the measures to clean the garment, and state as such in your listing. Then, if the garment isn't "fixed" you can try the more heroic measures. If something is cotton and it has "the pits" around here it gets a bleach or a Biz treatment...and anything washable gets washed here. I dry clean darn near everything in the dry-clean only zone, and deal with what I have to afterwards.

If a dress is fun and pretty, but just bombed with issues, get it prepped now and list it on ebay in September as a Hairspray/Grease/Sock Hop/50s Party costume. I've made some good money then on otherwise unsellable items. Gals want the look, but don't want to risk "good vintage" on a night fraught with fake blood and fangs.
 
I never even thought of using markers, tea or coffee, but it's an interesting idea.

Julie - I sorta figured that RetroClean was a soak, like Biz. I think I need to buy both products because a girl can never have enough stain remover on hand!

The September party idea is a very good one. I hate the thought of these pretty not enjoying one last party or night on the town - all because of a little secret that no one can see : )

Kim
 
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