Beaded/Embroidered/Sequined waistcoat - 1930s?

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Lily K.Chadwick

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Hoping for some help on my Christmas present to myself, its one I couldn't quite resist, and would love any information on!
The item in question is a heavily embroidered/beaded/sequined net waistcoat, with wonderful floral decoration. It also has several pink prong-set rhinestones.
I would lean towards it being 30s and possibly french, but thought I'd ask for some pointers here.
Photos are from the seller for now(as its not yet arrived), though there are a couple more close-ups I can provide. Thanks in advance!
 

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It also looks, from what I can see, that some of the beads are metallic. Would this be considered couture-level embellishment? Is it at all feasible to associate it with a certain maker?
 
I, too, see folk rather than fashion influence. You can see it has some age but I don't see anything that I could attribute to a particular era. I would look to the fabric and construction.

I will note a couple of things though: it doesn't look like it's lined, and that is less than ideal for a heavily embellished garment, so I would look for remnants or signs of a missing lining. Also the armscyes are very large so that suggests it could be more modern than '30s. Then I would look to the measurements, I wonder if it's for a man? Could be part of the reason why the armscyes are so large. Lastly, is that something on the inside shoulders, like a pad?
 
poppysvintageclothing - Thanks ever so much for your reply! It does look almost as though it could have been part of a folkloric costume, but its being beaded only onto net(a double layer, I believe) makes me think it mightn't have been sturdy enough? Also, does 30s sounds about right for it?
 
Circa Vintage - Thanks for your reply also! From what I've been able to tell, there aren't any shoulder-pads. Also, lining-wise, while there's beading to an upper layer of net, I think it's been lined in another layer of net.
The only sizing information I have so far(though I'll update when it arrives), is that it fits a UK women's size 10(and sits on the shoulders). Not specific at all, measurement-wise.
Kind regards,
Lily
 
That is beautiful. This, as you have said, will be better determined once you have it in hand. The color mix and look are a bit reminiscent of the mid to late 1930s, but this could be earlier or later.

While it is a work of art, it does not seem to resemble most Haute Couture embroidery and bead work. The embroidery (from what I can tell in the photos) is done in a chain stitch which gives it that folkloric look. I usually associate that chain stitch with crewel work or embroideries of the East Indian/Pakistani/Eastern European variety.

I see what you mean about the under layer of net being a sort of lining, added to give strength and stability while not taking away the sheer and delicate nature of the piece as solid piece of fabric would do.

The double net is, as you mentioned, a bit delicate of a choice for any repetitive dancing. My guess is it was a piece worn over a dress or blouse, for evening wear. Of course, it could be made for the theater as well. Has a bit of that Ballet Russe effect.

It reminds me a bit of Schiaparelli in the colors and "feel", but I doubt there is any other connection.

This is just my humble opinion.
 
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I think its Eastern European - Hungarian women's costumes have beaded and sequinned vests. The workmanship is too fine for Turkey, and I don't think it looks Indian/Pakistani to me
 
Rue_de_la_Paix and Jonathan: Thanks ever so much for your replies, I really appreciate them!
Within folk-wear, would there have been evening pieces, as well as the sturdier cotton(and other fabric) backed costumes?
I'd love to find some comparative examples, as its being beaded on net still throws me slightly.

Also, out of curiosity, why is it that couture houses tendentially opt for stitches other than the chain stitch? Is it to achieve a more "stream-lined", smoother finish?

Kind regards,
Lily
 
Romanian/Hungarians have traditional outfits just for wearing for special occasions/days. Only some would be dancing in them (like actual troupes at a festival/fair for example)
However I don't recognise the style to be from that region, the motifs chosen are just that bit more exotic than anything I've seen, however all the traditional wear I am familiar with is more modern to be sure.
 
Chain stitches are used in couture but as very fine, small stitches, aka tambour work. When done coarsely it's probably created by a machine, which can be done quite early (1830s).
 
Pinkcoke - Thanks ever so much for the help, I had no idea about the different varieties of traditional dress(and imagine I'll have fun trawling through and sighing over them later)! Somehow the floral motifs(not the leaves below) seemed to have a slightly more western European look to them, at least when I first looked at them)?

Jonathan - Many thanks for your reply! Construction details and stitches are very much my weak point, so I really appreciate the help in learning about them.
 
wyogems - Thanks :) I'll be sure to post more pictures of it worn when it arrives!
 
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