Bonnie Cashin Jacket--Buy & Repair or .....

MyVintageCocktail

MyVintageCocktail

VFG Member
.....Fuh-getta-bout-it?

Would like some advice, please.... Found a gorgeous Bonnie Cashin real-fur except but.... the sleeve on one side is ripped out almost all the way around--it's hanging on by just a few inches. I inspected this closely, and it is torn out at the seam. Most of the seam allowance, which is extremely narrow to begin with, is intact, but in a few places it is just gone. I think if the rest of the seam were to be stitched up, any small gaps could be neatly hand-stitched together without affecting the look, and the stitching would "hide" in the fur. I left the coat on the rack, unsure of how much such a repair might cost. Does anyone here have any idea what something like this would cost, and even if it's worth doing? I don't know what this would be worth fixed up, and I figure my investment might end up being $50 to $70 total. Though if I have the right type of needle, I could do the repair myself, but I would have to do it all by hand & it would take me a long time. I checked eBay--nothing like this coat on there active or completed. I saw a photo of one like it once, and its price was over $200... But what that has to do with reality I don't know! It's a short jacket, with short shirttail-style splits up the sides and I think 3 leather & metal toggle fasteners. Any opinions are greatly appreciated.
 
Hi Anne,

It would really depend upon the condition of the fur. Has it torn because the skins are dry and fragile, or just from rough handling in the recent past? I would go back and examine it more closely. If the leather skins feel stiff or "crunchy", I'd pass as the entire coat will start to fall apart eventually and your repair would probably not do much good in the long run.

If the skins are soft and supple and the fur is not shedding, I might take a chance if the price is right. You might even be able to talk the price down because of the damage.

Good luck!
Jody
 
Thanks, Jody! if I do decide to buy it, it'll only be if they mark it down half price for me! The fur doesn't seem to be shedding, only where the skin seam allowance has fallen away. The fur itself is still very soft & supple, but right where the seam has come apart, the skin is dried out a bit. I assumed that was because of exposure to air over time. Now whether it's all like that I don't know. I am going back this morning to take a closer look at it, as I was in a rush last night. I have to also see if there's a shop in town that can repair it! I don't want to have to drive up to Harrisburg or over to Lancaster.... Thanks for your input--I'll definitely see what kind of shape the rest of the skin is in and check out the fur more closely. This is so cute I'd love to grab it, but don't want to throw good money after bad!
 
It sounds like a wonderful jacket. Cashin items are funny, some go very high, and others don't do what one might expect. The fact that this one is fur will probably help it. And if it has the Sills label, that's a plus.

Maybe you could checl the yellow pages for fur and leather repair, and see if there is someone in your area who might be able to advise you.

Lizzie
 
Lizzie, I did buy the jacket, and it is SO nice. A fellow behind me in line this morning, who seemed quite knowledgeable about fur & skins (probably a hunter; this area's loaded with them) was looking it over & commenting on how nice the fur was and that it was still soft & supple.... Couldn't find any fur-repair shops listed in the area, but there are some leather shops & a couple of custom tailors listed. I'm going to call some on Monday & see if someone can fix this. Upon further inspection, it looks like the skin and all leather trim is in terrific condition--even the area right at the seam break is pretty good, except in one or two places. So I think there's great hope for it! Maybe I'll post a "before" and "after" picture....

Unlike what I remembered from my first quick glance, it doesn't have toggle fasteners, but has two slide clip fasteners (like those on a dog lead), held on by leather straps. It isn't the Sills lablel, just a "Bonnie Cashin" label. From the clasps, I think this jacket would be from the early 70's but I'm not sure. It's sort of got the "hippie boho" thing going on....
 
Hi, this reply comes late, but may be of help if you still have the coat--

Bonnie Cashin worked with Sills until 1977--so this coat probably dates from after that time.

The UCLA library special collections web site on her may have a sketch that looks like your coat too. (you can easily find it with a google search)

good luck with the mending. If you do the work yourself, try to re-sew into the original needle holes so that the leather/fur 'fabric' will not be compromised by having too many holes (that will make it easier to tear).

This sounds like a great Cashin piece--don't see much of her fur out there.

--Jennifer
 
Thanks for the info, Jennifer! I found an Italian tailor who's been around forever & who will look at the coat and tell me if he is willing to repair it; he sounds very knowledgeable about furs, and has a good reputation. I'm going to bring it to him this week, but I will post a photo before doing so! If he won't give it a try, I'm going to repair it myself. Another tailor told me if I was good with needle & thread and had a very sharp needle, I could probably do it myself. But I'd rather leave it to the pro--I've mended & sewn lots of stuff before, but never fur (though I have done leather, but the skin was not as thin & fine as this is).

I don't wear fur, but if I did & if this fit me, I would most definitely keep it! It is very "cool," IMHO!
 
Bonnie Cashin Jacket--Photos at Last!

OK, finally took a couple of shots of the jacket, as I'm going to try & bring her to the tailor tomorrow. I hope he says he can fix her; otherwise, I shall do it myself! I didn't put her on a manni, as I don't want that seam to open up any more. As you can see on the left the sleeve-to-shoulder seam is open almost all the way around. But the more I inspect this, the more convinced I am that it is in outstanding shape but for that--the lining is like new and where there is leather (at the closures and trimming the inside) it is not cracked or showing hardly any wear. The slide clips are scratched and have some finish wear, but not much. If this can be repaired, it will be a very nice piece, I think! Could this be racoon? A friend of mine had a vintage racoon coat, and the color/texture of this is very similar. There is some very coarse, long guard hair in places, which I think might indicate that fur as well. Not sure, though.

cashinfront.jpg

cashinlabel.jpg
 
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