Burn testing/Fabric ID help please

Pinkcoke

Alumni
If I may muse through this with you.
I am new to burn testing, but I just didn't get what this fabric and it needs washing was so had to try it.
From the outside the fabric has a linen look to the weave, is 'hard' feeling (though that could also be because it's not been washed for a while!) when I rub two pieces together it sounds like sand. The weight is similar to dressmaking cotton. It is printed with green dye. I originally thought it was a textured weave rayon.
The burn test; I couldn't take a swatch but the nature of the fabric is to fray and pull out in long strands so I had a good sample of threads. I lit them with a gas flame. The long strands all self-extinguished unless they were balled up and thus in the path of the sample's flame. It was a decent flame from such a small sample, couple of inches high perhaps? The burning gave off a strong woody smell with an acrid note. (I wondered if the latter was the dye? there was a brownish liquid residue left under parts of the burnt sample) The strands charred, not melted, and if anything remained it was black/brown.
My quandry is that I thought it did self extinguish if not held in the path of it's own flame (unlike a match, as it were, which burns along) (although now I'm wondering if it stopped where the tweezers held it?!)
but it did not give final residues like any of the materials under the self extinguishing/charred route. I would also say nothing turned to ash as such, I have black burnt strands which suggests cotton or linen on the chart.
Based on these results what are your thoughts please? what cleaning method would you suggest I start with (its just generally grubby, esp. roudn the collar and feels like it's 'holding' dirt in it's stiffness) so I would like to soak probably. I have garment handwash liquid, washing up liquid, oxycleaner etc. at my disposal.
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thanks Nicole, as it's not crepe do you think I can hand wash it then? do you usually test if they are colourfast first? (that's my biggest worry with this sort of print!)
 
I would say rayon butcher cloth, but possibly in a blend with some synthetic, because your results came across a bit mixed (woody and acrid for instance). I believe you could soak it, but maybe start with a damp cloth with a little of your soap/detergent on it, rubbing on the print in an inseam. If you don't see any color loss, try a soak, checking for awhile to make sure dye color isn't appearing in the wash liquid.
 
I recognize the look of it - I have had a few of those linen-looking rayons - English, late 40s, in fact they were NOS and came with CC41 paper tags. I still have one and I haven't washed it. I think the colour should be okay, but rayon is not a great performer in water, although wartime rayons are better than most, because they were made for durability. Its the later rayons - 60s and up, that are crap.
 
Thanks all. I had to wash this before seeing all the replies tonight as I'm out on the market tomorrow. I started by wetting the bottom of the back hem with cold water to see if the colour ran (thinking if it went tits up I could always shorten it), then tap hot water, then some soap on a hemline dust mark. All went well so I filled up the bathtub with my normal delicate/handwash liquid and soaked for maybe 1/2 hour, irritated it, washed the neckline with soap as that was the worst area and rinsed well. I didn't dare leave it for longer not knowing the fibre. All the grime and looong time storage smell came out. It did reveal one well set but faint liquid stain on the skirt, which I didn't notice before washing or I would have treated that like the neckline. It didn't feel fragile when wet at all - it did get strangely hard though, to be honest it washed like linen or cotton, quite robust.
Oh and I did discover a paper label in the shoulder seam while washing it *doh* but I think it had mostly gone before I got to it - the dress had definetly been worn and probably washed several times before too now that I think of it. Incidentally the dress does have a good example of period overlocking on select seams I was going to photograph for comparison. I believe the hem was altered as its in a different thread, possibly the skirt panels were narrowed as well, as half the length of the seams are pinked and half not.
I did roll it up in a towel and kneel/knead :) then ironed to damp as it's that thicker fabric that holds a wet crease well! Now that I think of it the fabric does most remind me of the old tablecloths.
It's good to know some rayons are washable!
before/during/after:
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