can I get help with this gown - 30s? 40s? 50s?
- Thread starter AnyDayNow
- Start date
dorotheascloset
Registered Guest
30s into 40s, pretty classic styling. Gorgeous!
Ang
Ang
hautecountryvintage
Registered Guest
Early 40's vote, many from this era were both machine sewn & hand finished, both home made and manufactured. These are my favorites
Laura
Alumni
I think 30s. The skirt portion is bias cut, right?
Both of these patterns are from the mid-30s and show a similar raised waist seam and long, bias skirt.
Here's another similar '30s nightgown at Eva Dress.
It's a design that I strongly associate with the mid- to late-30s, because that is when I've seen it most often. But Eva Dress also has this '40s nightgown that is similar. It has the same waist seam and is bias cut, too.
Laura
Both of these patterns are from the mid-30s and show a similar raised waist seam and long, bias skirt.
Here's another similar '30s nightgown at Eva Dress.
It's a design that I strongly associate with the mid- to late-30s, because that is when I've seen it most often. But Eva Dress also has this '40s nightgown that is similar. It has the same waist seam and is bias cut, too.
Laura
vertugarde
Alumni
This night gown could be late 40's. The styling of the bodice with the full gathers and the type of broad lace trim and double straps allows for the use of more fabric. The pinking issue seems to confuse a lot of people.
I believe that sergers and overlocking machines were not in homes until around 1964.
From a reference; "Examination of the seams on store bought, mass produced clothing of the 1950’s, shows that most were pinked. Overcast seams, welted seams or Frenched seams were usually only found on very expensive garments. Overlocked seams did start showing up in lingerie during the 1950’s. By the early 1960’s all lingerie had overlocked seams, and the use of the overlock stitch was beginning to appear in other garments made of fabric that would fray easily.
A 1965 catalogue ad mentions that a garment featured overlocked seams, while another ad boasts overlock seams in 1960’s lingerie. The term is not a selling point in fashions of today as most attire has overlocked or serged seams."
I believe that sergers and overlocking machines were not in homes until around 1964.
From a reference; "Examination of the seams on store bought, mass produced clothing of the 1950’s, shows that most were pinked. Overcast seams, welted seams or Frenched seams were usually only found on very expensive garments. Overlocked seams did start showing up in lingerie during the 1950’s. By the early 1960’s all lingerie had overlocked seams, and the use of the overlock stitch was beginning to appear in other garments made of fabric that would fray easily.
A 1965 catalogue ad mentions that a garment featured overlocked seams, while another ad boasts overlock seams in 1960’s lingerie. The term is not a selling point in fashions of today as most attire has overlocked or serged seams."
vertugarde
Alumni
I'd list it in the 40's category.
MyVintageCocktail
VFG Member
I think this is late 30s, and it's lovely!
I would go with early 40s on this one...very pretty piece!
Circa Vintage Clothing
Alumni
I would put it as late '30s, early '40s. Bias cutting really wasn't done after that, although the bodice cut does suggest early '40s to me.
Overlocking/serging is an interesting one. I recently bought a collection of 40s clothing from a wonderful lady who simply store them after she had finished wearing them, so they're all totally original - many items have overlocking on them, including tailored suits and lingerie.
I have one customer who won't buy any vintage with overlocking because she sees it as proof that it's not vintage but in reality, it did seem to get used from time to time, or maybe it was just Australia?
Overlocking/serging is an interesting one. I recently bought a collection of 40s clothing from a wonderful lady who simply store them after she had finished wearing them, so they're all totally original - many items have overlocking on them, including tailored suits and lingerie.
I have one customer who won't buy any vintage with overlocking because she sees it as proof that it's not vintage but in reality, it did seem to get used from time to time, or maybe it was just Australia?
vertugarde
Alumni
Bias cutting was used for lingerie throughout the 40's although War restrictions, 'Make Do and Mend' meant that the princess or 'A' line panel cut was the popular style because that style reduced the amount of fabric. As the fashion silhouette began to change - let's use 1947 as the date for the sake of argument - then so did undergarments and of course nightgowns.
Here is an original bias cut nightgown pattern from the 1940's illustrating 3 variations of the pattern. The version at the lower right looks very like the style we are discussing apart from the straps.
http://tinyurl.com/6zoy6l
I have seen all sorts of slightly misleading info out there about bias cutting such as;
'Bias cutting was promptly dropped as a waste of fabric.' (reference to the World War 11 period)
What is interesting is that the USA imported manufactured lingerie from the Philippines and Puerto Rico in the early 40's.In this next link, from a site I always recommend, is a good reference from 1942 on 'Modern Pattern Design' Lingerie. Specifically look at 'Bias Bra-top Slip.'
http://vintagesewing.info/1940s/42-mpd/mpd-10.html
I think it is true that a country's social and economic development, the impact of war particularly during the late 1930's and through the next decade would have influence on what was available in the way of lingerie and Nicole brings up a very relevant point.
BTW Nicole when you mention overlocking, re: the collection you bought, are the garments machine overlocked or hand overlocked?
Here is an original bias cut nightgown pattern from the 1940's illustrating 3 variations of the pattern. The version at the lower right looks very like the style we are discussing apart from the straps.
http://tinyurl.com/6zoy6l
I have seen all sorts of slightly misleading info out there about bias cutting such as;
'Bias cutting was promptly dropped as a waste of fabric.' (reference to the World War 11 period)
What is interesting is that the USA imported manufactured lingerie from the Philippines and Puerto Rico in the early 40's.In this next link, from a site I always recommend, is a good reference from 1942 on 'Modern Pattern Design' Lingerie. Specifically look at 'Bias Bra-top Slip.'
http://vintagesewing.info/1940s/42-mpd/mpd-10.html
I think it is true that a country's social and economic development, the impact of war particularly during the late 1930's and through the next decade would have influence on what was available in the way of lingerie and Nicole brings up a very relevant point.
BTW Nicole when you mention overlocking, re: the collection you bought, are the garments machine overlocked or hand overlocked?
Laura
Alumni
The Hollywood pattern is from 1943.
I think when we (or anyone) talks about bias going out in the '40s, we don't mean that it wasn't ever used. I think what we mean is that it wasn't a fashion trend and wasn't used frequently. And without having more context for the quote about bias cuts being dropped in WWII as being a waste of fabric, I would hazard a guess that the reference concerned mainly manufactured clothing and fashion trends. A wartime seamstress could certainly cut on the bias if she liked the look and had enough fabric. However, bias cuts were not a fashion trend at the time.
Laura
I think when we (or anyone) talks about bias going out in the '40s, we don't mean that it wasn't ever used. I think what we mean is that it wasn't a fashion trend and wasn't used frequently. And without having more context for the quote about bias cuts being dropped in WWII as being a waste of fabric, I would hazard a guess that the reference concerned mainly manufactured clothing and fashion trends. A wartime seamstress could certainly cut on the bias if she liked the look and had enough fabric. However, bias cuts were not a fashion trend at the time.
Laura