cc41 button restrictions

L

lizzietree

Registered Guest
Hello all!

I was wondering if someone may be able to help me with a utility/cc41 based question.

I am co-curator for an exhibition about the little black dress due to go up in Portsmouth (u.k.) in 2011. We have a number of utility dresses which are possibilities to appear in the exhibition. My problem is though the number of buttons they have! I have read in numerous sources that buttons under utility restrictions were limited to three, and that they couldn’t be used for decorative purposes. Yet, one of the dresses has 14, all for decoration, and another has 6…this is really baffling me! Could certain firms wander around these restrictions?

Any help would be greatly appreciated

Lizzie
 
I outlined most of this in my book Forties Fashion (insert shameless plug here - http://www.amazon.co.uk/Forties-Fashion-Siren-Suits-Look/dp/0500514291/ref=tmm_hrd_title_0), so you may want to pick up a copy for the library's museum.

While WW2 lasted from 1939 to 1945, the CC41 utility scheme was in effect from 1942 until 1952. CC41 (Controlled Commodity 1941) regulations included austerity measures but austerity measures were applied to all forms of garment construction, whether they were CC41 or not. The two schemes co-existed but were not created for the same purpose. CC41 was created to make rationed clothing of a good standard by addressing textile use and construction methods used in production, so that all Britons had access to quality garments. For example, CC41 shoes are made of quality double sewn cowhide leather with double soles - the sort of shoes that would last 4 or 5 years with care, and which gave the English nation the reputation of being sensibly shod. CC41 dresses and suits are made of non-shrinkable rayon, high percentage woolen blends, non-run dyes etc. - garments that could wear well and last a long time with reasonable care.

Before CC41, a lot of clothing was like today - cheap crap that fell apart after a few wears, and also virtually uncleanable. If you were wealthy you could afford quality clothing, but if you were working class, cheap dresses were all you could afford, and yet in the end, they were more expensive because they didn't last. As everyone was rationed by coupons as to how much they could buy in a year, it was only fair to ensure a higher standard of production. Not all clothing was made with the CC41 stipulations, but they were mostly off-ration items or bespoke work.

Austerity measures were designed to address the unecessary use of material and labour in clothing construction and applied to all garments, whether a part of the CC41 scheme or not. turn-up cuffs, the number of buttons, the size of a hem, the use of embroidery, etc. were all regulated by austerity measures and these rules changed during and after the war. As the CC41 utility scheme continued until 1952, CC41 clothing gradually had fewer and fewer austerity regulations to deal with. So, the dresses you have with all the buttons are probably post war dresses, which are similar in silhouette and length to wartime dresses until the spring of 1947.
 
Ace, that makes a lot of sense. One of them has the double elevens label, so i knew that was post war anyway.

The other has a standard cc41 label, hence where the partial confusion lay! Its always difficult when broad generic statements are made, suggesting that EVERYTHING under the utility schemes was restricted, because i am sure companies managed to find a way to wander around it. I will make the suggestion that the dress with 14 buttons is probably post 1945 too.

The quality of the garments is very good, I myself own a fabulous pair of CC41 platform shoes which the quality of is simply amazing. Its true what they say, they can't make it as good as they used to!

Thank you ever so much for your help

I must say also, before i posted this i had searched around the forums already, trying to find my answer. The knowledge you have on the utility movement never ceases to amaze my Jonoathan! So informative... i have learnt so much in the past few days by just reading what you had written about utility.
 
I found that most history and fashion books skimmed over the details and confused rationing, austerity and utility into one big heap, so that is why I took on finding out the details.

BTW, as CC41 clothing was really only one step away from government issue, the wartime government kept a very tight rein on austerity regulations for its manufacture. Companies that produced CC41 garments received privileges such as being allowed to retain a larger work force and receive a larger cloth allotment for making more garments and thus more profit. I doubt any manufacturers took a chance of not meeting austerity regulations for fear of losing that privilege or, like American manufacturers, being fined for failing to meet austerity regulations.
 
yes! I was thinking a lot about how comapines were fined/ shut down for not following regulations. My Grandfather worked at the tailors Hector Powe in regent street just after the war finished and i know even though they were maing bespoke suits they had to follow the austerity measures.

The french shut Balenciaga down for not following restrictions!!! Ahh dear.

Anyway, yes, the exhibition is on between the 12th February and the 5th June at Portsmouth city museum, Museum Road
Portsmouth, PO1 2LJ.

Thanks for that Amanda! I will write up somewhere properly about it nearer the time too! Very exciting stuff
 
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