Ceil Chapman Dress? real or not.....

Vintage_Visage

Vintage_Visage

Alumni
Yay, first personal encounter with something higher than Neiman Marcus lol..

She needs a cleaning, estate fresh.

The dress is not faded or damaged, just some dirt spots. The brownish fade is from some buildup on my camera lens.

So, as you can see the label has been reattached, poorly. However I feel comfortable saying that the lower right corner stitch in the label could be original.

After looking at other Ceil Chapman, I have seen tons of 50s dresses with same neck lines, sleeve ruching and cut. I have not seen one with the ruching and crisscross appearance at the waist though.

there are two boning strips in the back of the dress.

To me I "think" it is a Ceil, but I have not had any such pieces and I do not want to cheat anyone or myself.

Confirmation of 50s, and possibility of being Ceil.

Thanks all!

Oh yeah, i cant read the zipper but it is written at an angle and says something like conmate conmal comnat ? not sure if there was a zipper associated with Chapman

ty again


4942311054_cc043a5051.jpg

4942311102_70cbd97ec6.jpg

4942311144_bf29e624a2.jpg

4941725581_997ff71e9b_z.jpg


4942311294_d93f2332b1.jpg
 
Looks Ceil-ish to me, although I've never handled one. Zipper might be Conmar? Fairly common metal zipper brand.
 
Jennifer, it looks very Ceil-like to me, too. I've seen dresses almost identical to this attributed to her, with what appeared to be genuine labels. Since this is her "black" (couture) label, that waist detail might be different from other similar dresses she did. Is it silk jersey? How is the workmanship on the entire dress? Is the zipper stitched in with straight lines and even fabric margins in the placket? I think there were a lot of Ceil knockoffs among makers of the same era, and also wonder about people making them up from patterns and finding labels to stitch into them.

I had a dress sold to me as a Ceil, with a label in it, but although the workmanship was OK, it wasn't outstanding and I just didn't get a "Ceil feel" to it once I handled it.

I think the neckline wants to ride at the shoulder points, instead of below them. It looks like the underarm seam isn't falling quite right on the model (is that you? if so, dress looks like a great fit on you!)
 
yeah the shoulders need to be a tad higher... fits me perfect but I need the pointy bra to pull the chest out to make the shoulders stay... I have very rounded shoulders....um,,,, as afar as seams here is an inside shot.....

I am not good with stitching techniques yet... still learning.... it looks REALLY worn on the inside... .the zipper has been caught many times and the hangar straps are very worn.

I cant say it looks exceptional to me on the inside. There is quite a bit of "clean" detail, work and stitching on the inside but the edges are all rough. It could be from wear, or not real a Ceil?

I just dont know.... should I take a bunch more pictures?

I do note that the ribbon (what ever you call it) that is sewn over the hem in dresses normally is used here in various places such as the zipper and in he sleeves where is it ruched.

Help with terms please.

I am pretty sure it is rayon actually positive now whether it is a rayon blend or not I am unsure since there were so many "rayon's" out at the time

here is a pic, sorry so big but trying to show the work.
 
Hi,

I just wanted to add that the fabric looks to be a faille weave. It could be silk faille, have you tested an inside snippet from the seam allowance? Of course, rayon faille is beautiful too.

It is gorgeous in the way it fits and the drape and sleeve treatment....really a beautiful dress.

Barbara
 
About the only thing I can say from looking at the pics is that I think there would be seam tape at the waist seam in addition to the ruched seam at the arms and hem.

But, when you say
I cant say it looks exceptional to me on the inside.
Click to expand...

But that it's "clean" workmanship, I'm inclined to think it probably is a Ceil. I have only one Ceil, a black-label gown from the late 40s. It's gorgeous on the outside, but truth be told, the construction, while clean and more than acceptable, is not as nice as in some other couture pieces I've had (not that I've had that many--LOL!). I mean, there's nothing wrong with it, and it's very well done--even seams, clean cuts, etc. But that there wasn't anything I could call exquisite or breathtaking about the inside--but the outside has fabulous detailing. Whereas I've had one or two pieces that have really "wowed" me just for their construction techniques and detailing. And in looking at my Ceil, one would definitely know it had not been done by a home seamstress working from a Ceil pattern.

As long as the work is consistent and there's nothing uneven, sloppy, or shoddy about it, I'm guessing you have an authentic Ceil there. Good work!
 
Well thank you ladies!! Makes me feel better...

It was with some other GORGEOUS dresses whose labels did not survive so I wasnt to suspicious but then I was expecting the inside to be exceptional and I know that people do switch lables so i wanted some good advice and opinions....

what would be a good price range after cleaning if I am allowed to ask that here? Low end price no damage of noteworthnyness (thoug I will note the wear and paint comming off zipper re tacked label all that jazz... :-) )
 
Yep Rayon, 100% positive... even the lining is a nice rayon. Polished? but oh I love the smell of rayon and cotton when they burn.

Oh and Anne, After looking for an acceptable place to cut a snippet from I see the workmanship lol. There is seam tape at the waist, but in the front it is covered by a panel/lining that covered the front treatment, but there is about 6 inches along the waist on each side of the zipper. There is also seam tape on both sides of the zipper, but when I first looked, because being so worn I thought it was crappy stitching on the zipper. Nope just well worn seam tape! thank you for that term. I have learned a lot form this dress.

I am relieved! thank you all!
:adore:
 
Ah, that is good, Jennifer, that you found it--I would've been really surprised if it didn't have it.

This is most often, I think, called seam binding or hem tape, but I just usually combine the terms and call it seam tape (not to be confused with the iron-on "tapes")! Don't know if that's 100% accurate, but that's what I call it....
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top