CHINESE ROBE

nolly

nolly

Registered Guest
hello

I was wondering if anyone could help me describe this chinese robe, I believe it is from early 1900's. I know with most robes the embroidery means somthing, this has heavy embroidery around the cuffs of a garden scene, flowers willow tree & people
& also would anyone know how to describe the added trim & needlework patterns on robe?

I see there are some amazing books on antique chinese textiles & robes & some very people well versed on the subject , so was wondering if there is anyone on here who might have any ideas....CHEERS!

<img src=http://img.inkfrog.com/pix/cheftrendz/80ori.JPG>


<img src=http://img.inkfrog.com/pix/cheftrendz/80ori5.JPG>


<img src=http://img.inkfrog.com/pix/cheftrendz/80ori9.JPG>
 
Here are a few more images

<img src=http://img.inkfrog.com/pix/cheftrendz/98robe4.JPG>

<img src=http://img.inkfrog.com/pix/cheftrendz/97orient33.JPG>

<img src=http://img.inkfrog.com/pix/cheftrendz/80or4.JPG>

<img src=http://img.inkfrog.com/pix/cheftrendz/98robe.JPG>

<img src=http://img.inkfrog.com/pix/cheftrendz/90ori.JPG>
 
This may be crazy, but the closure seems very low and the sleeves very wide for a traditional Chinese robe of the early 1900s . I wonder.... could this be a 1920s Chinese robe that show some 1920s dropped waist fashion influence?

Hollis
 
I have never seen that type of embroidery around the collar (not that I have handled a lot of these or are any kind of expert but I have seen and handled several dozen in my life) I will send this link to someone I know who is a Chinese clothing and textile specialist - he may know, if he has time to look.
 
That was fast - I heard back from him - its John Volmer who is internationally recognized as a Chinese textile and clothing scholar. In fact the Chinese hire him to do exhibitions! He said:
"The date suggested is probably correct. What is unusual is how little embroidery is actually used on this garment--only the sleeve turnbacks--everything else (plaited silk braids of various types and a variety of jacquard woven figured ribbons) were probably cottage industry-based products purchased in the market either by the wearer or her
tailor/dressmaker. It represents period high style translated into a reality that could have been afforded by someone of limited means. Garments of this type have rarely made it to the art market as they do not exhibit the image of overly embellished styles that characterized late 19th and early 20th century Chinese dress."

Hope that helps.
 
Originally posted by Jonathan
He said:
"The date suggested is probably correct....Garments of this type have rarely made it to the art market as they do not exhibit the image of overly embellished styles that characterized late 19th and early 20th century Chinese dress."
Click to expand...

I think he is referring to the early 1900s date suggested by the OP.

Interesting piece!

Laura
 
I think John was referring to the 1920s, as Hollis had suggested - because the overall style is copying 1920s dropped waist coat styles. Its a case of European fashion influencing traditional Chinese garments (it happens both ways!)

As for value - it depends -- I suspect a museum would want it more than a private collector. I once acquired a big lot of everyday Chinese clothing from the 1930s and I tried a few items on eBay with absolutely no interest at all. A few months later I mentioned I had this collection to someone who worked at the Textile Museum and they were ecstatic to get it. The more common items tend not to be collected in the field so they have more anthropological value than cash value.
 
I also think John may be referring to 'early 1900's.' The link I posted shows a similar garment which if I read the Drexel info correctly at the beginning of the slideshow has a cut off date of 1911. The robes in their collection date from 1875-1911.

I would be interested to know if it was indeed the case that traditional Chinese costume was influenced by the dropped waist during the 1920's early 1930's.
 
I am sure he was referring to the 1920s. The 1911 date would reflect Imperial China when there is less outside influence and clothing is cut following traditional. Between 1912 and the 1930s China takes on a lot of influence from the outside world as it modernizes - this is when the Cheong Sam also develops - imitating Western bias cut dresses. The war with Japan and communist revolution throughout the late 1930s and 1940s slows down China's western influnece until the communists take over in 1949 and that Mao uniform develops in the 1950s and 1960s with padded khaki jackets.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top