Cisele Velvet? Cotton Velvet Pile/Treated-Pile Fabric

EndlessAlley

EndlessAlley

Alumni
This Tony Krupa gown is 100% cotton from Italy. Skirt is velvet and bodice fabric appears to me to best fall under the category of velvet pile treated-pile fabric. The pile on this bodice is almost 1/2" long and the background has a satiny look. After doing an internet search and looking through our fabric resource guide I'm wondering if it would be considered a cisele velvet? However the length of the pile is unusual from what I'm seeing. Also considering style and metal zipper my guess as to date is 1960s.

Thanks for your thoughts on fabric and date.
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What a pretty gown with an unusual treatment on the velvet! I don't "know" cisele velvet, but to me and "from here," this looks like the ground on the bodice is panne' velvet, which was popular in the late 60s into the 70s, and the circles look like a novelty-cut effect out of the panne' velvet.

I wonder if Tony Krupa did a lot of work in velvet, like, for example, Helen Whiting? I have a 60s' red cotton velvet gown from him. Seems his stuff is rarely found, and it's interesting that both of ours are in velvet....
 
Other than you lovely red velvet gown, Anne, I found only two other pieces, one that sold for $$$ on ebay, also velvet and another "summer" dress, definitely not velvet. I very much appreciate your help.
 
I don't know how much "help" that was, Alice! LOL.... But it's really hard on an unusual fabric like this to tell what it might be without having it "in hand." That is a very cool effect on that, though! Should bring in some nice $$!

(I need to re-shoot mine with my new camera that can actually reproduce red pretty accurately; I had a devil of a time that that Krupa gown! Grrr....)
 
a sateen is made of cotton, sometimes a cotton blend. It is constructed in a tight satin weave...
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Reading more of our fabric resource guide I found this definition for sateen which seems to describe the fabric of the bodice since the only nap is found within each circle. I think it's difficult to see because of my pictures. If the fabric was
novelty-cut effect out of the panne' velvet
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wouldn't the entire fabric have a nap? :puzzled:
 
Yes, Alice, if it were panne' velvet, the entire fabric would be "napped." From your photos, the bodice background appears to be a short-napped, satiny-looking velvet, with the very long nap only in the circles. If the background is not velvet, then sateen sounds about right.
 
Yes, the background has no nap. Looking at the edge of the fabric in strong sunlight it's easy to see that it's woven. The background fabric is irregular in color, similar to watermark silk, so I can see why it gives the impression of having a nap. Thanks Carrie for confirmation on the date.
 
I've seen Lilli Ann coats in an eyelash fabric. Good questions. "Eyelash" could describe the longer nap.
The label in the dress does say "all cotton". I don't know how comprehensive fabric labels were in the 1960s, and whether some materials, if in small amounts, would not be listed.
 
Alice, do you have a photo of the reverse of the fabric? Or is it completely covered with lining?
 
Thanks Alice...that's interesting fabric!

To me it appears to be jacquard woven, with those dots containing clipped surface floats. It is certainly like an eyelash effect, which is lappet woven.
 
Maggie, thank you for sharing your thoughts on this one. I should find someone who works with The Ohio State University's Historic Costume and Textile Collection to look at it. If I can set up a time with someone I'll update this post.
 
Alice, it would be wonderful to know more about this unusual fabric--it's really unique, and if you get more information, I'd be dying to hear it!

I think "eyelash effect" is a good description.
 
Melody, I agree it's awfully glossy for 100% cotton. Perhaps the skirt is 100% cotton velvet and the bodice is something with a touch of rayon? It's so interesting. Eyelash is definitely a good term, not only because it's so descriptive, but because that's a very popular type of yarn for knit and crochet these days.
 
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