Crinoline Hoop for a civil war style wedding dress

Aphrodite_Nymphia

Aphrodite_Nymphia

Registered Guest
First of all hello again everyone, it has been a while since I have been here as my vintage collection got out of hand and started to spread out of my wardrobe into another room and beyond I had to take a bit of a hiatus from collecting.

That being said I am coming here now because I have a bit of a crisis and I am hoping that I could call on your knowledge and expertise for help. So here goes, I am getting married on 10th December this year and my wedding dress is being made to be a replica of the blue portrait dress Scarlett O'Hara is seen wearing in the painting in Gone With the Wind. It is being made out of a heavy silk satin and, being keen to have it look as historically accurate as possible, and needing a sturdy hoop to hold it out (and up!) I had planned to get this hoop http://www.gwtw4ever.com/lifesizeunderpinnings.htm.

However it was quite expensive to get made and at the time I initially contacted them I needed to save up for it. In any case when I contacted them again recently they told me they are working on other projects and don't have the time to make it now.

So here I am 1 dress, no hoop and the type you generally see on e-Bay (e.g. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/4-Hoop-Bridal...170184&cguid=bfd581bb11c0a0aad43558a5fffc5302) are not only the wrong shape, but collapse under the weight of the dress.

So I am wondering do any of you know where I might be able to get a proper crinoline hoop or even a good pattern for having one made from?

I am in a complete panic now so any suggestions are welcome.

Emma.
 
The shape of the crinoline you want will be your biggest problem because its an historical shape of the early 1860s and bridal crinoline makers generally use the 1850s bell shape, although you can adapt them somewhat. I have adapted bell shaped crinolines for 1860s styles by adding tulle but this is only for static display. You could try contacting a theatre costume builder and explain what you need but do it now because theatre costumers are about to head back to work for the fall season. Contact you local opera/theatre/ballet people and see who they would recommend to make the crinoline for you.
 
Ian Chipperfield can make you one: http://thestaymaker.co.uk/
His work is EXCELLENT and historically accurate, he can make you any Victorian underpinning you want. I cannot recommend him enough and he's a nice guy too!
Don't know what his prices and time frames are though but you may as well ask!

Lei
 
First - no one throw rotten vegetables at me!

What I am going to suggest is NOT as historically accurate as it sounds like the cage you were originally wanting.

If you're looking for a quick and inexpensive set of hoops, try Fall Creek Sutlery -- scroll down the page a bit.

The last two shown on the right - the 4 and the 6 bone slips work fairly well. For someone not wishing for a 100% accurate presentation, we have always recommended the 6 bone and then removing the bottom bone to get a reasonably accurate shape. The circumference is a bit excessive but the hoop diameters are adjustable.

I have purchased from Fall Creek in the past and found them to be reputable (I have no personal or financial interest in the company.)

Diana

I have no experience with the ruffled hoops but with 160" diameter, I fear you could end up looking like an umbrella! Adjusting the size down might not be easy due to the ruffled fabric.
 
There is such a strong Civil War Reenactment community in the US I'm sure you could find something ready-made from one of their 'sutlers', such as the one Diana linked to.

For instance, googling along those lines I also turned up:
http://www.abrahamslady.com
I'm sure there are others.

Since there are ready-made examples out there, I'd be leaning on getting one those myself :), but if you wanted to have one sewn from a pattern you might want to browse around on this website:

http://www.farthingales.on.ca/

Farthingales has patterns (the Simplicity Civil War reenactment series and Laughing Moon mercantile) for hoop skirts as well as the hoop steel and other supplies for making them. They also have sections on what the patterns look like made up and whether the pattern worked well, that sort of thing.

So, for Simplicity 9764 (the Civil War hoop skirt) they describe the process and have links to the supplies you would need for it here:
http://www.farthingales.on.ca/simplicity_9764.php

Simplicity 9764 is out of print, but you can still find copies on Etsy/eBay.

And for Laughing Moon #112 (1856-1889 Hoops and Bustles)
http://www.farthingales.on.ca/laughing_moon_112.php

The hoop pattern from Laughing Moon can also be found directly on their website:
http://www.lafnmoon.com/112_hoops_bustles.html

Truly Victorian also makes an elliptical cage crinoline pattern and their US Civil War era patterns can be found here:
http://trulyvictorian.com/catalog/103.html

I also found a nice summary page on making cage crinolines on "Your Wardrobe, Unlock'd" by Sunny Buchler here.

It sounds like a beautiful dress!

Best wishes for your wedding!
Jen
 
I agree with the others that a professional costumier is your best bet - your hoop needs to be strong, and you need to know that it will do what you want it to do.

I would follow Lei's recommendation and call Ian. The way your dress looks, feels and moves will be determined by the quality of your hooped petticoat.

Nicole
 
I'm sorry if I misled you on the cages - I was going for inexpensive, sturdy, and quick.

Another period correct and researched cage crinoline maker is Kay Gnagy at Originals by Kay.

I have seen her cages and they are truly wonderful. I know she has made both the round and elliptical. She does excellent work at reasonable prices. She has made a corset for me and I can attest to her workmanship. She also travels to Europe a few times each year so you might be able to personally meet with her (I'm not sure to what location she goes.) She has also sold crinoline kits in the past. I don't know what her workload is, but it's quite possible she could have your cage done in time. If you happen to contact her, let her know I recommended her. :D

Diana Craig Sparks
 
Thank you so much everyone for all your wonderful advice!! I have contacted a few of the costumiers mentioned to see what their time frames are, but I also saw a few ready made hoops that may just do the job. My plan is to purchase one of them so that I at least have a hoop if I am unable to have one made. I really can't thank you all enough for your advice, my google searches had't came up with much and I was starting to worry that I wouldn't have a hoop at all.

Emma.
 
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