Dating a Callot Soeurs dress?

RaleighVintage

RaleighVintage

Alumni
This is a dress from my 'personal stash'. I found it in a local antique mall (along with an early 20s dress purported to be from the same estate) several years ago. I was wondering if anyone might have any thoughts on the date and/or why there is a paper label with an address in France, but no interior label.

Label: Callot Soeurs paper label, no interior label
Fabric: medium weight silk
Closure: side hook-eye
Details: soutache decoration; bias cut, curved panel skirt,
Date: I was thinking maybe late 20s/early 30s. It isn't the typical over-the-top flapper dress one normally sees from Callot Soeurs. This seems almost like a day dress - although a very well-made and intricately-made dress.

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THANKS!!!

Andi
Raleigh Vintage
www.raleighvintage.com
 
It certainly looks early 30s with the bias cut ankle-length skirt. The wrap-front (Furstenburg didn't invent... or McCardell) I have see as early as 1917 in a Vionnet. It could be a model that was bought for copying in the States by a manufacturer. There were lower taxes to pay if things like labels were removed. Once in the U.S. the dresses were sold and resold to manufacturers down the line as the style became staler and more copied. Anyway, not sure if that is the reason for the label and the lack of the designer label, but its a thought...
 
Jonathan! THANKS! That is definitely a something to consider. North Carolina was/is a 'textile state'. Although we were most well-known for manufacturing the fabrics that were shipped up north to be made into clothes, I would be shocked if there wasn't some dabbling in design here. So, it could be possible that someone in the NC textile industry brought it into the US. This sounds like something fun to research.
 
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