Designing Women

denisebrain

Administrator
Staff member
VFG Past President
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During National Women’s History Month, the VFG is honoring the female designers who have contributed to the fashion industry and have left a treasure trove of vintage items to cherish.

Several notable pioneers of the early 1900s come to mind – Madeleine Chèruit, who proved that a woman was capable of running a major French couture house; Jeanne Paquin, who organized the first runway shows to display her beautiful pastel dresses; Jeanne-Marie Lanvin, who recognized the potential of a lifestyle brand with her clothing, perfume and home décor; Coco Chanel, whose focus on practical designs for active women dominated the industry for many years; and Elsa Schiaparelli, who introduced the bright colors and odd shapes of surrealism to the fashion world.

In the years following, other women built on their foundation and continued to innovate. A few of the better known are Claire McCardell and Bonnie Cashin (sportswear), Betsey Johnson (girlish kitsch), Mary Quant (the mini dress), Vivienne Westwood (punk and new wave), Diane von Furstenberg and Donna Karan (career wear), Edith Head (movie costumes) and Vera Wang and Ann Cole Lowe (bridal gowns – Lowe made Jackie Kennedy’s).

There are, of course, many, many more. And we invite you in the comments section to name a few of your own favorites. Let’s celebrate as many female designers as we can. Because they have made our world such a beautiful place!
 
Hattie Carnegie Shawl - Personal Collection
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Hattie Carnegie late 1950s Japanned and Rhinestone Brooch - Personal Collection
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Schiaparelli "Watermelon" Earrings - Sold Archives
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Schiaperelli Earrings- Personal Collection
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The "bumpy" stones are sometimes called "moon rocks."

One last item - Nancy Johnson late '80s Linen with cutwork Two piece Dress - Made in Hong Kong (in my closet)
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I think a great designer should be able to do black well. For example ...

Available in my Etsy shop:


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90s DONNA RICCO Black Crepe Cocktail Dress with Diamond Keyhole Back, Soutache Braid and Beads; size 4

Donna Ricco is an American designer who hails from Wisconsin. She divides her time between her business in New York City and teaching in the design department of Marymount College in Milwaukee. In 2008, Michelle Obama wore an off-the-rack Ricco dress while co-hosting "The View."


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80s KATHRYN CONOVER Black Jacquard Cocktail Dress | Dramatic Crisscross Back; size 8

Minneapolis born designer Kathryn Conover specialized most of her life in dresses. According to a NY Times article from 1983, she was devoted to fabrics that "endure and keep their luster" and classic silhouettes that "make a woman feel good about herself." She had her own company and label in New York from the early 80s to 1991, after which she consulted and collaborated with the likes of LIZ CLAIBORNE and RONNIE NICOLE labels, before starting KATHRYN CONOVER BRIDAL COUTURE, which is still in business. She also designed numerous dress sewing patterns for BUTTERICK. Ms. Conover is now in her 80s and as far as I know, still alive and designing.

And some favorites from my sold archives ...

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70s/80s ADELE SIMPSON Black Wool Crepe Hi-Low One-Shoulder Cocktail Dress with Silk Organza Ruffles

Simpson was born in the early 1900s in New York City and was of Latvian background. Her father was a tailor, and by age 14, she was making clothing for herself and all of her siblings. While still a teenager, her designs were admired by her sister's employer - a clothing manufacturer, and Simpson was hired to design there, too. She attended school at the Pratt Insitute, worked for a while with Bill Blass, and by the time she was 29 had her own brand. She designed Pat Nixon's inaugural gown.


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Y2K VIVIENNE TAM Black Knit Top with Sheer Mesh Sleeves that have Embroidered Phoenixes with Dangling Bead Tails

According to Wikipedia: Vivienne Tam is a fashion designer based in New York City. She was born in Guangzhou, Guangdong, China, and moved to Hong Kong at the age of three. She attended the Hong Kong Polytechnic University. Tam's fashion brand is named after her and is inspired by Chinese culture, design, modern fashion, and east–west fusion.


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80s CATHY HARDWICK Black Ribbon Lace Evening Jacket

Born Cathaline Kaesuk Sur in Seoul, Korea, Hardwick emigrated to the USA in the 1950s, began freelance designing in San Francisco in the 1960s, and finally settled in New York, where she began her own business in the 1970s. Designer Tom Ford got his start in the USA designing for Hardwick.
 
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Dotty Smith (aka Doreen Smith Segal) Scottish Terriers Scotties Black and Red Enamel Belt Buckle 1980s

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Vintage 1970s Rikma Kaftan Dress Made in Israel by Rozi Ben-Josef Originally Sold at Miller & Rhoads

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Vintage Signed Miriam Haskell Shell Necklace Wood Beads 1970s

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Mimi Di N Large Silver Tone Metal Bow Belt Buckle Black Faux Reptile Belt 1987
 
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From my personal collection... although I keep meaning to, I haven't quite managed to part with them yet.

LUCILLE MANGUIN Early 1950s Haute Couture Brown Tortoiseshell Silk Pleated Dress
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MAGGY ROUFF 60s Tan Suede French Designer Belted Short Sleeve Dress
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MARY QUANT Early 60s Rare Black Sleeveless Shift Dress (circa 1961-62)
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