Dress with Saint Laurent and Malcolm Starr label

[FashionDirector]

All,

I have just acquired a 1960s Malcolm Starr dress that also has this Saint Laurent label from what used to be Woodward & Lothrop department store in Washington, DC. I don't think the Saint Laurent label references YSL. Is this a different designer? What is the connection to Malcolm Starr?

 

[Circa Vintage Clothing]

I would expect that it's a different designer, yes.

 

[pastperfect2]

I am a bit baffled. I am no expert on Malcolm Starr, but this is very odd combination of labels. Is that also an ILGWU label, yes? Do you think all 3 labels are original?

 

[Coutureallure]

I am baffled too. The only explanation for both designer labels to be in place is if Malcolm Starr did an exclusive adaptation of a Saint Laurent design (with Saint Laurent's permission) for Woodward & Lothrop. However, I have never seen an instance where Malcolm Starr (or anyone else) did this and kept their own label in the dress. Nor would I imagine the House of Saint Laurent allowing a second designer label to remain. Where are the labels placed and are they both sewn in with the same thread? I suspect one of the labels is not original. How big is the Saint Laurent label? May we see the dress please?

 

[FashionDirector]

I am a bit baffled. I am no expert on Malcolm Starr, but this is very odd combination of labels. Is that also an ILGWU label, yes? Do you think all 3 labels are original?

Yes, that is an ILGWU label and all appear to be original. The Saint Laurent label is throwing me off because it's not like any YSL label I have seen before which is why I think it's a different designer.

 

[Pinkcoke]

Could we see how each label is sewn in and their location on the dress?
The only time I have had a label sewn onto a zip is when a dress was altered and the wearer wanted to preserve the label.

 

[FashionDirector]

I am baffled too. The only explanation for both designer labels to be in place is if Malcolm Starr did an exclusive adaptation of a Saint Laurent design (with Saint Laurent's permission) for Woodward & Lothrop. However, I have never seen an instance where Malcolm Starr (or anyone else) did this and kept their own label in the dress. Nor would I imagine the House of Saint Laurent allowing a second designer label to remain. Where are the labels placed and are they both sewn in with the same thread? I suspect one of the labels is not original. How big is the Saint Laurent label? May we see the dress please?

The Saint Laurent label measures 2 in. x 3 in. and is located at the back near the neckline. The Starr label is along a side seam. All appear to be original labels and sewn in with the same thread. The dress looks like a typical Starr dress - simple lines with embellished details.

 

[Circa Vintage Clothing]

Can you please show photos of how the Starr label is sewn? It looks like it's sewn along the zip in your pic above. Thank you.

 

[FashionDirector]

Can you please show photos of how the Starr label is sewn? It looks like it's sewn along the zip in your pic above. Thank you.

Yes, the Starr label is sewn in along the zip. Do you think the Saint Laurent label represents YSL or another designer?

 

[jauntyrooster]

I feel like I have seen that Saint Laurent label before and that it is not YSL. I have been wracking my brain trying to remember where and when. Hopefully I will remember or others will jump in with a definitive answer to that part of your question.

 

[pastperfect2]

I have seen labels sewn along the zip - not often, but for example, Ceil Chapman used that placement occasionally.

 

[TangerineBoutique]

I'm with Maureen. I believe I have seen that St. Laurent label and I don't think it is YSL.