Edit- Burn Test! Sergeant Pepper's Magical Mystery Jacket!

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rosebudrose

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Edit- Burn Test! Sergeant Pepper\'s Magical Mystery Jacket!

While this amazing, weird, beautiful jacket is in pretty shoddy condition, I couldn't bear leaving it behind on my last treasure hunt. It's easily one of the neatest pieces I've ever found, but also one of the most puzzling. The only conclusion I've come to so far is that it's 1940's or older, and probably a costume piece. It definitely looks handmade, although skillfully. Most of the buttons are missing, it's dirty as sin, and there's a tear in the back, but other than that, it's very sturdy. The hooks and eyes alternate, and are a kind I've seen mostly on late 19th/early 20th century clothing. It looks like silk, and it's lined with muslin. The jabot is crepe silk with a crocheted lace edge.

Does anyone know what to make of this strange and amazing thing?

(Sorry for the picture overload)

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I would guess that it's either a part of a majorette's uniform, or a film or theatre costume that is used in the play as a device to transform an 18th century female character to pass for a boy.
 
It reminds me of some of the bustle dresses I've had over the years in its construction and materials. I'm thinking it is a stage costume dating from the late 1800's.
 
An Opera or Shakespearean trouser or breeches role would make a lot of sense.

I see zigzag stitching , and you would think that would set the date, but it's not that easy. Attachments were available from pretty early on. Something - I am not sure if it was an attachment or an actual machine was patented in 1870s. Okay - more research says a machine. And Singer certainly had a home machine attachment. But they were a pain - they moved the fabric back and forth on the same principle as the early buttonhole attachments.

One source says Singer produced an industrial zigzag machine in 1892. I must say though, you very rarely see the stitch in use that early.

Home sewing machines that did the stitch w/o an attachment weren't available really until after WW2, or so say Sears. The Kenmore 12 was an early home machine from 1965, but there was Kenmore Zigzager in 1956 : "The "Kenmore 84" was, according to White, a product of American and Germany ingenuity. It was a zig-zag sewing machine which sold for the rather large sum of $239.95 in 1956" White had a joint venture with Pfaff and was a big supplier for Sears. Toyota's first was in 1953. Bernina's ( Swiss) in 1938.

That doesn't look commercially made, it looks costume shop made with the extra wide seam allowances, zigzagged on trim rather than hand sewn, and no lining. They would have used older buttons, lace, trim and hooks from their stock. The width of the shoulder line and the pads make me think 1940s as the fashionable mens line would have affected costume design.

I have not seen tons of 1890s - 1900s costumes, but I have handled a few mens 18th century costumes that were Victorian era, and they were as well made as the clothing, with a fair amount of hand sewing. And there were no shoulder pads.

A fiber content on the satin body would help the most with dating.

Hollis
 
This has nothing to do with helping you identify your wonderful coat I was just remembering my younger years in the 70s when we would wear this type of thing with our bell bottoms (guys and gals) and we never minded the condition. As a matter of fact we preferred our vintage to be in "antique" condition. I remember tacking on mis-matched buttons and patching up tattered laces and velvets just to make things wearable. I love your coat just the way it is :)

Melody
 
Well, I thought the button might be a clue - so I asked my friend Matthew and here's what he said -
"I agree with the posters who have said that it's a costume piece cobbled together with elements from various eras. The buttons look ca. 1900 to me, but that kind of thing was made for ages. The shoulder pads look 40's/50's, I think..... oh, and that's some kind of machine lace on the jabot, not crochet."
 
Thanks everyone! I am now taking on the task of checking out all of the operas suggested- It seems very feminine for a trouser role, but that seems to be the most plausible explanation.

I did a burn test on a tiny piece of the white fabric, and it seems to be some sort of acrylic or acetate. That eliminates a lot of options.


Melody- I had been wanting a Jimi Hendrix [or Adam Ant, depending on your musical preferences] style Hussar jacket for ages, which is way out of my price range, but meant to wear it in a style similar to what you're describing. In fact, when I bought this piece, one of the young men at the store told me he preferred it tattered and button-less.

Hollis- Thank you for your incredibly detailed info. Based on the zig zag stitch and the shoulder pads, I'm going to have to agree with 1940s.

Amanda- I thought the buttons would have been a useful clue, as well, until I realized that theatre pieces will usually use recycled bits, either out of economy or to achieve a more 'period' effect. And your friend is absolutely correct about the lace, it is machine made, my mistake.
 
It may be from the 1940's but I think it is later. The main fabric could be a polyester satin and it may have been dyed or dipped down from white or cream. The jabot certainly looks like it was dipped to match the satin. It's quite a good costume build, probably for film or theatre. Don't get too influenced by the shoulder pads. Shoulder pads give structure in tailoring. They also emphasise the shape of the jacket. The costume designer might have wanted to exaggerate the look a little. Do I see some black wadding? There's usually a press-stud (popper) or hook and eye to fix the jabot to the collar or neckline.
 
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