Fabric Question

*~Eli!

*~Eli!

Registered Guest
Hi Everyone... it has been awhile since I posted here, but I utilize the VFG info often. LOVE LOVE LOVE the new website look.

I am having an issue with discerning two types (or possibly the same type) of fabrics for dresses, that appear to be made in the 60s - 70s.

I feel I should know this... but I have researched it to no end, done fabric burn tests and reviewed similar items online, yet I am not 100% convinced I know the definitive answer. Please help.

Raw Silks, Worsted Wools or similar fabrics?

I am posting pics of two dresses (which I know is normally frowned upon, but this question is about the differences or similarities of the two) and close ups of their fabrics.

Dress #1 Is a Cream beaded shift by Miss Elliette, it feels like worsted wool, but I thought it was shantung or dupioni. There is another of this same dress posted for sale online and the fabric is identified as Dupioni silk. I have provided one pic of the full dress then two close ups of the fabric.

Dress #2 Is a Mint or Pistachio shift, it has lines of nubbiness usually associated with raw silks, Dupioni and / or Shantung. I have seen a similar dress posted as worsted wool. Do worsteds or similar wools,ever have that texture? What other fabrics might look, feel or be used similarly?

So, is dress #1 a type of silk or wool?

Is dress #2 some sort of Raw silk?

Are the fabrics of these two dresses related?

Are there any other similar fabrics that look and feel the same, and might be used similarly?

Thanks

*~Eli
 

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Last edited:
Yes this is awesome. I did the burn test and they smell like burning hair and do not melt. I don't use chlorine bleach for environmental reasons, so have resisted purchasing it, but I suppose it would not be devastating to have one small bottle on hand for such a test. Especially since I have quite a few dresses that traverse this realm of confusion for me.

The Cream dress is so finely finished with closed seams, that there was barely a spot for me to nab any spare fabric.
 
There are a few more that might help.

The first one talks about flame colour, and the second, our own VFG one, about different ash
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I can't say how true these are, I've not tested them! So let us know if you get a result that works for you.
 
There is no place from which to clip fabric from the Cream dress. Every seam is tightly sealed. I was only able to do the initial burn test, because the zipper had separated from the fabric allowing me into one of the seams, but it has since been professionally repaired. I suppose I could open that seam up a little to check.

I had just decided the cream dress was wool, but then noticed it was made in Hong Kong (British Crown Colony) and being that almost all 60s / 70s Miss Elliette dresses were made in the US, thought maybe that suggested it was silk, since so much silk and beaded silk came from Hong Kong in that era. This is making me crazy. I have pulled down these dresses from being posted twice now due to indecision and I have more made of these fabrics (although I have yet to burn test them)

Any suggestions appreciated. Especially if it will help in further similar identifications.

Thanks again

*~Eli
 
Thank you Carrie, that is what I thought... that the slubbing was not something seen in wool, worsted or otherwise, correct? So that puts the Green one at rest and, at least confirms what I thought.

I think I'm just going to post the Cream dress as Wool or Wool Silk blend aka Alaskine, as you mentioned. It feels a lot like worsted to me, but then I have another dress that has the slubbing that feels just like this one. So much time spent on this, its getting ridiculous.

Do others spend hours toiling over such things? Is it really THAT bad to post something, stating the fabric content is your best guess? I waist so many hours on things like this, or even smaller details some times? Is that just nuts? *smile* Others out there... raise your hand!

*~Eli
 
Good on you, Eli, for striving to identify the fabric. I wish more vintage sellers would do that, there would be more happy vintage buyers out there.

Both your dresses look like shantung to me: alaskine isn't usually shiny like yours, and as it's a winter weight there's usually a longer skirt too - although many '60s dresses are shortened so it's hard to tell sometimes.

Here's my alaskine late '60s evening dress.

circa_vintage_webshop_171_1.jpg

You're right in that worsted has a fine weave, the chunkier wools are tweeds. Alaskine does have a slubby texture though.

I have an easy test for wool: you wet it and smell it. It has a distinctive smell. If you're not sure, wet something you know is wool - I use a spray gun - and sniff. It's a nice smell and quite unique.
 
Thanks Nicole,

I went through all of the dresses in question and all but two seem to be shantung (which is how I originally posted them), the two left in question need to be wool or a mix. They both sort of have that "sharkskin" sheen and although one is a little slubby, it looks and feels more like wool. But I will pull those down and wet them and see what I .. uh smell *smile*.

Much appreciated.

*~Eli
 
I believe I have but will again check it out. I am pretty sure I have it figured out for the most part. Just never realized how much Gaberdine & Worsted wools could resemble Shantung Silk vice versa, or how often the materials were mixed as blends. Just landed on a bunch of old western suits, so I may be back with similar questions...

Thank you as usual

*~Eli
 
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