Fake Breast Pocket?

J

Joe Palka

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I hope I'm doing this right. I've never joined an on-line community before, so I do not know if I'm posting correctly. I apologize if I'm doing anything wrong.

I purchased on e-bay recently a suit from the 1940's, probably custom made (no labels) with MOST of the characteristic tailoring. No vent, padded shoulders, button fly. Oddly no cuffs BUT a lining on the inside of the bottom pant hem that suggests that whoever ordered this suit really put something into it. It even has a full-lining, of course, unusual for a 40's suitcoat. I've cut and pasted the original listing here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/191444945382?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

I'm hoping you can look at the pictures. MY BIG QUESTION: Its left front breast pocket is FAKE!!! Not merely sewn shut, but if offers the illusion of a pocket only to ge around 3/4" deep!!!!? Have you ever heard of any such thing? Would love to have your insight if not too much trouble.
 
Hi Joe, and welcome to the forums - are you sure it's not a real pocket? It sounds like you've already checked the stitching and there are not holes for snipping through. Another way to check is if you feel along the front of the jacket, where the pocket would be. If you feel very thoroughly you can tell where the pocket is - if you've mentioned that it's less than an inch deep it sounds like you've already tried it and the pocket isn't there.

Perhaps the pocket interior was used as scrap fabric for a mend somewhere: I always go to the pockets first if I need extra fabric for repairs, although I tend to replace the lining with another material so you don't lose the functionality of it. Mind you, breast pockets are really only used for pocket squares so perhaps the owner wasn't fussed. That's the only suggestion I can offer.

PS, regarding the "lining on the inside of the bottom pant hem" it will help if you can post a photo but it sounds like you've found the thick protection strip that is often sewn into these trousers, to protect them where they might hit the ground and become worn. It's a sign of quality but is often removed if the trouser length is adjusted. Sometimes they're a leather or faux leather material. I love little details like that.

PPS - congrats on the suit, it's a beauty.
 
Nicole, you are so sweet to respond so promptly. Yes, I sure did explore that pocket, being familiar with pockets that are only sewn shut on other articles of clothing. You're right about that protection strip on the cuffs. It's odd that the original buyer asked for a fake front pocket AND no cuffs. (Pants are double-pleated.) I'm presuming that the protection strip is original. The suit is meticulously tailored with a button even for its inside breast pocket. Another unusual characteristic is the single back pocket on the right side of the pant. It has a "pointy" flap, often associated with western style vintage, but nothing else about this suit is western. Just an unusual blend of excellent tailoring and customer idiosyncrasy, I think. The fact that the fly is all buttons, I'm wondering if it may not be even older than the 40's? The fabric all appears very "fresh" although the lining is quite similar to other clothing I have from the 20's (white with series of five or so pin-stripes that repeat themselves every inch or so.) Take care and thanks again!
 
Joe, it's clear that your suit has been worn and perhaps updated (the mismatched buttons), or at least altered.

The deep hems to the trousers suggest that perhaps the cuffs were removed as fashions changed - this is very common.

It looks to be in excellent condition. I also note the elastic portion: is this inserted inside the waistcoat? That suggests it was adjusted to fit a smaller wearer, or perhaps the original wearer lost weight.
 
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