Flaws on a 40s coat - questions...

Midge

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Staff member
Yes, I have been on a bit of a vintage online shopping spree... :D And now I have some questions on my latest arrival.

I bought this super cute 1940s winter coat on Etsy from two very nice sellers. It's a bit creased since it arrived in a standard flatrate USPS box, but I've aired it, had it on a hanger or my manni all the time and it already looks loads better.

The first question I asked myself though - is this actually still a late 40s shape - or more early 50s - the longer I look at it, the more I wonder :puzzled:... The swingy shape puzzles me a bit. It's about knee-length.

40scoat1.jpg


40scoat2.jpg


It fits me perfectly, it's heavy and certainly warm, and at first glance, there are just the smallest flaws - one of the seams of one of the pocket linings is half undone, and there's the tiniest little hole in the front, which will be an easy fix (it's anyway on that side that goes under).

It also has a most delicious lining:

40scoat3.jpg


The lining is free at the bottom, not sewed to the outer fabric, and turning it over reveals another secret as to why the coat is so heavy and has such a beautiful, swingy shape: there's an extra lining for warmth sewn inside the "normal" lining!

40scoat4.jpg


Of course I'm a curious person, so I took a closer look at the coat's inside, also because I wanted to see, if there was a label hidden anywhere (there's definitely no label). Turning the lining further inside out revealed something less nice:

40scoat5.jpg


There's a rip in the center back seam in the "warm" lining, above the waist, and about four holes. This fabric is very lightly woven, and if it was sewn a bit tight, I can actually imagine someone whom the coat maybe fit a bit tightly, ripping it. I don't know about the holes - if they were moth holes, would there not also be holes in the "nice" lining or the outer fabric (there are none, beside the tiny one on the outer fabric, but that's on the other side)? Should I put it into the freezer or have it dry-cleaned anyway (I have a good dry-cleaner, they just cleaned my pink 40s evening dress with the pearls and sequins on it)?

What bugs me a little bit is that this flaw wasn't mentioned in the Etsy listing. I can see that it is pretty well hidden away, but anyway. A few minor things were mentioned, and the price ($145) seemed right for me, if I want to buy a new woolen coat that looks good, I'll easily have to shell out more. However, this here is a somewhat bigger thing... It's not that I can't repair this, and it won't be visible when I wear it, but I feel it's something they should have mentioned... what do you think? I'm still pretty new to Etsy, and so far, all purchases lived up to their promises.

Karin
 
Karin, your new coat is lovely! I'm not a great deal of help with dating coats, but it looks early to mid 50's to me.

As far as the lining damage, I am going bet that the seller didn't find what you found and that is why it wasn't mentioned. The seller likely examined the inside and outside and documented what they saw, not even thinking to look in the middle for a hidden inner layer. Living in Southern California, I had no idea that secondary linings could be inbetween the lining and the body of the coat for extra warmth, so this is a very educational post for me, Thank you for that! If the issue that you found is of concern to you, I think you should definitely communicate with your seller. It was only the interior lining issue that wasn't mentioned correct? Send a convo their way and explain the situation. They will likely want you to be a happy customer, and will probably do what they can to resolve this with you.

As far as dry cleaning, it is a good idea anyway, if not just to be safe. In the end you'll want a clean coat for the winter anyway, and probably don't want to be thinking about how long it has been in storage or who wore it last and if it was cleaned before it was stored.

In the end, I think your coat is gorgeous and I LOOOVVVVEEE that color!! What a great find and am happy to hear that the issues are repairable.
 
Karin, that is indeed a lovely coat! I agree with Amber that the seller likely didn't see the flaws in the inner lining. Either he/she didn't know there was one, knew there was one but didn't take the time to look, or didn't "want" to look. I think a lot of sellers are, quite frankly, in too darned much of a hurry when they list and don't inspect items carefully enough.

The two roundish/squarish holes look like moth holes, and the other, as you say, like a stress hole or rip. Moths are picky, I think! Some wools they will devour like crazy and others they ignore or just nibble on and then ass up. At least that's been my experience! The insulating layer is loosely woven and a "rawer" wool, if you will, than the shell wool. Probably easier for the critters to munch on. And they wouldn't eat the satin lining, I don't think. That's probably rayon, and I don't think they want that.
 
Fabulous coat Karin - well done.

I agree that it's mid '50s (so many sellers simply assume a coat or jacket is '40s if it has a fit and flare shape) and that dry cleaning it is the best thing to do. I dry clean everything, it's not worth the risk and many things haven't been cleaned for decades before they come our way.

Nicole
 
It's a great coat!

Anne is quite right that moths aren't keen on rayon. Though I believe they have been known to eat most fibres, it's protein (ie animal) based stuff they love - wools, silk, fur, even feathers and leather; not so much vegetable, (such as rayon or cotton) or artificial, (such as nylon). Also they like darkness, so being inside the lining rather than the outer layer makes sense. I could say more, but it's all a bit "Ugh!"

Out of interest I saw a 50s long evening dress with a similar lining once, though not quite as heavyweight. Evening wear for the days before central heating I thought!

Definitely freeze or clean it, what a lovely find. It'll look great with your hair.

Ruth
 
Thanks for your comments! I was going to have it dry-cleaned, but since I'm away three weeks in November and was weather-wise hoping that I won't be needing a winter coat before December, I would have had it dry-cleaned a bit later on, but I guess in this case it's the sooner the better... That dry-cleaner is at the other end of the city and with their opening hours I can only make it there on a Saturday (but only on those that I don't have to work...), so it requires a bit of planning. But they're the best and certainly worth the trip. I will send a convo to the sellers about the damage and see what they say. You guys taught me to be curious and turn things inside out :spin:.

Thanks also for confirming my hunch about dating. I started wondering once I had it in my hands and tried it on myself. It certainly feels gorgeous to wear!

Karin
 
Karin, what a nice coat, and yes I also agree of course, about the dating.

I only hope that additional moth damage does not make itself visible, following dry cleaning, as that can occur. That's why I always have my items of this type, professionally cleaned, prior to selling; Nicole is absolutely right.

Amber's suggestions for communicating with the seller, are really good. I also agree with Anne, about these sellers being in a rush, and not fully inspecting their merch.
You are a discerning, detail-oriented, knowledgable vintage buyer, and you noticed it. The seller should have done the same.
 
So, I heard back from the sellers. They say they're sorry about not having seen that damage - they apparently had the coat dry-cleaned and the rayon lining fixed (that small damage had been mentioned), and usually, the person doing this would tell them if she found more flaws - and that they could send me a copy of the bill for that. Well, guess the seamstress didn't dig deep enough either - as the flawed part are above the waist, it really is something that's not easily visible. They would also take it back and refund me - or give me a discount on a further purchase. Well, I like it too much now to be wanting to send it back (besides, postage would cost half a fortune, the coat is heavy). And I don't think I have money for another vintage garment right now, I've spent what I got for my 5-year "jubilee" at work and now I should save up for my next vacation... Maybe I'll just ask to see a copy of that bill... just to make sure.

Karin
 
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