floppy Christian Dior Chapeau ; ). Please help...

Better Dresses Vintage

Better Dresses Vintage

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Hi,

Looks like it has to be from the 60s, based on several factors, not least of which the weirdness of the floppy, large-crown style and lizard-embossed satin. Suppose it's high fashion ; ).

Meanwhile, something within the hat, between the faille lining (so nicely put together), and the satin outer fabric is disintegrating, and bits of brown "sandy stuff" is creeping out. Any suggestions? Perhaps just "hold still while wearing" ? ; ) Don't know how well that will go over.

Dating and any other advice you have to offer, please?

Thanks and happy spring! Liza

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Hi,

It looks early 1960s to me also. The style is also late 1950's actually, but I agree that the lizard embossed fabric is a more 60's thing. Until you know what is under there, it is hard to give advice on what to do. It could be the buckram foundation is flaking, but that doesn't happen very often....can you peek inside at all? Could there be some pale colored straw-like material strips fused to crin or black buckram? That stuff can often disintegrate from attic storage and become brittle, but it does not look like sand, more like straw bits and dust. . I haven't seen that material used in 60s Dior hats however, only in high end and couture hats. (your 60s Dior label is not couture). I suspect it is some synthetic backing on the embossed reptile fabric that is making that awful "mystery dust" or whatever we call it. Not much you can do unless you want to open the hat and investigate. It may be a lost cause if it is some foam like stuff in there. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news....
 
I suspect it is some synthetic backing on the embossed reptile fabric that is making that awful "mystery dust" or whatever we call it. Not much you can do unless you want to open the hat and investigate. It may be a lost cause if it is some foam like stuff in there.
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Sadly, this was my first thought as well because of the sandy dust, many people call this "devil dust." If you can see any backing on the fabric that is likely the cause and unfortunately, there is nothing I know of that can be done to control the disintegration.
 
In your last photo I can see small grains and yes, sadly, it looks like devil dust. Such a pity! My best advice is to remove lining, or undo at one end and see if there is a foam lining or something in there that is crumbling. It affects synthetics. If you can find the cause and remove it, you can possible shake the hat lots until it's free of it and rescue your hat. Otherwise, if it's impregnating the fabric, you won't be able to save it. Sorry!
 
Oh, boy. Yikes. Good thing is, I don't believe the devil dust (love the name -- so descriptive!) is impregnating the hat, as inside and out, it is quite bright black and doesn't look compromised or ruined in any way. There was no mildew or odors of any sort at this estate, and I didn't see any signs of anything disgusting. Probably just a matter of time, poor storage, and the Atlanta climate.

I will probably just have to bite the bullet and open the seam to take out whatever it is/was that has disintegrated. Trying to shake it out bit by bit is too long a chore. Perhaps I will enlist a seamstress friend to tackle it for me and split any proceeds with her! I'll see if she's game.
 
Be brave LizaJane - I don't think devil dust is caused by any storage or environmental factors. It's due to the instability of early synthetics, and their use was so widespread in the '60s some really great fashions have been affected. I've had to throw out some wonderful styles, it's heart breaking but what can you do? Devil dust is toxic and nasty and gets every where. If it's there, it won't stop breaking down. We all learn this one the hard way.

If it's just a lining, you'll be fine, just throw it away and stitch the interior up again.
 
Hi,

I hate to say this (really) but as the hat is not a Dior couture, and is a ready to wear hat made in the USA with a licensed use of the Dior name, it may not be worth all the trouble to save it. It depends on how much $ you have into it, and what you think you can sell it for. If you mess around and remove parts it will lessen the value even more. I just don't see the hat being worth putting any more money paying a seamstress to work on it. If you check Ebay completed auctions, you can still pick up these era Diors for an average of $25 on many days.

Sorry to not have happier news....
 
Oh, I wasn't going to put any money into it... just a little elbow grease ; ). I'm gonna give it a shot. I can take it outdoors, snip it open at the stitches, and see what's causing the wretched mess. As Nicole says (yes, I'll be brave, LOL), if it's some sort of interior lining material, I'll just yank it out, give it a good shake or maybe a vacuum, stitch it up and sell it. Just seems so wasteful to toss it without even trying, y'know?

Just wondering... As long as we're talking about non-Couture Christian Dior, what would you estimate this slate-blue wool suit with six-gored skirt and mandarin collar fully-lined jacket would have cost in Fall 1981 and what could someone sell it for today (in perfect condition)? No, I don't have the suit, nor will I ever have or sell the suit, so not breaking any rules in asking.

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Well, friends, it was well worth the 10 minutes and minimal effort. I snipped a portion of the seam under the interior grosgrain band. Turned the crown inside out through the opening, completely shook out all the devil dust (nothing scarier in there, thank goodness!), then flipped it right-side-out, restitched it, et voila! Ready to sell with nothing lurking inside and no sign of the repair (though of course it will be mentioned in the listing) ...

Thanks again for your help with this.

A happy Passover and Easter to all.

Liza
 
Hehe. It wasn't that big a deal, but I'm really pleased I tried. Turns out it wasn't the entire inside of the crown... just some sort of small band (from what I could tell) that had gone around the very bottom of the "poof." It was 100% disintegrated. Just dust. So it shook out easily, especially when I had the hat literally inside out. Then I discovered the same situation inside the decorative bow, which I untied (it comes untied, so no damage done), then shook the stuff out the open seam. I was so pleased to have saved it, as the exterior is really perfect. Not a bump or bruise on it.
 
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