Golden Soutache--but I know this has another name!

L

Lucitebox

Registered Guest
I refer to these details, not at all uncommon on '40s garments. Maybe I'm over thinking, but I have this niggling feeling that there's a name for this kind of scrolly soutache work done in metal infused (??) threads (?)


<img src=http://www.lucitebox.com/itempics/2_51/06.jpg>

<img src=http://www.lucitebox.com/itempics/2_51/08.jpg>

This dress:

<img src=http://www.lucitebox.com/itempics/2_51/01.jpg>

<img src=http://www.lucitebox.com/itempics/2_51/02.jpg>

Boo hiss! It's been shortened, or it's meant for a very petite woman, but I'm betting it's been shortened.
 
Amanda--thanks! I lurv it, too!

Mary Jane-- EXACTLY! You know, passementerie is one of those terms I can't remember because I've never said it aloud or written it more than a couple of times.

You ever read novels with character's names that are hard to pronounce, so you just make up a word that sounds like the name?

It's like that for me with passementerie. (Pass-uh-Mehn-ter-ee: I think.)
 
I've always referred to this as bullion embroidery. Isn't passementerie more of an applied braid? This looks like it is embroidered right on the fabric itself.

From the Fairchild Dictionary of Fashion:

passementerie (pas-mahn-tree accent on the middle syllable) Trimmings, e.g., heavy embroideries, braid, tinsel, beads, lace, and gimp, used as edging in 19th c.
 
What a great little outfit. That hits all the right buttons. Gold soutache braid works for me. It may have been taken up but the length looks perfect.
 
Just thought to look this up too. Also from Fairchilds:

Bullion Embroidery: Embroidery done with fine gold wire, also embroidery done with gold or silver threads, or cords, originating with the Phrygians (a region of what is now central Turkey) in ancient times.
 
Hi. Thanks, Jody! I had bullion tossing around in my head, but I was spelling it wrong! (boullion?) Then, I thought, "That can't be right!"

Anyway...I'm so thankful you've cleared this up for me.

I might use soutache as well as it might be understood more readily.

I sure wish this was my size! I love the little baby blue beads in contrast with the gold and the red. You just don't find modern clothes with such an inventive sense of color and such perfect colorways. So few get it color right today, in my estimation.
 
I'm probably too late, but I just got a book "New ideas in goldwork"on some needlework fancies and they refer to that type of embroidery as GOLDWORK. It was Japanese "gold" foil onto around rice paper and wrapping it onto a core body of silk fiber. Creating some beautiful and sculpted effects on net and other desired fabrics. There are a few other texts out there that discuss the more modern techiniques OF this passing in obscurity craft.
 
DeCoDiVa--thank you so much! I really appreciate you sharing the info. I probably would have never found it myself.

It's sad to think about the many time-honored crafts that are slowly becoming obsolete. I'm not sure we'd ever see this kind of work on a modern dress that wasn't couture. I mean, you just don't see this kind of stuff everyday. Most of us who handle vintage probably have that same thought daily.

Holly
 
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