Leisa
VFG Member
I get the TIAS newsletters & found this article to be really good. Even tho we all "know" this stuff - I thought some of you may want a refresher course, or to keep it on hand for reference.
Toinette has graciously granted me permission to reprint it here, and if any members want to transfer it to the members area, feel free. Just credit her, please.
p.s. - I took the liberty of deleting the Ruby Lane references.
xoxoxo
leisa
_________________________________________
BUYING VINTAGE CLOTHING AND SEWING PATTERNS
<A HREF="http://www.rubylane.com/shops/toinettea" target="new">TOINETTE'S VINTAGE CLOTHING - RUBY LANE</A>
If you have been smitten with fashions of the 1940's, then you have discovered an area of collecting that has an ever-growing field of buyers who wear their collection everyday. Women AND men have found that vintage styles and fabrics are a delightful way to add pleasure to everyday life. Here is a bit of history about vintage sizing and some tips to get the right fit when buying vintage clothing and sewing patterns.
Sizing for mass produced clothing for men was addressed during the Civil War due to the need for thousands of uniforms. Sizing for women's clothing was not addressed until the 1930s when a study was done by the National Bureau of Home Economics. The results were not modified and altered until 1958! Then a STANDARD was published and accepted by the industry. This was a voluntary standard, but competition in the apparel industry forced most manufactures and pattern companies to use the measurements we know today. Unfortunately, this standard is now being almost completely ignored by many design houses and manufactures.
A competent Internet seller should give you the MOST basic measurements of a garment they have listed. The way to measure a garment is to lay it flat and take the measurements straight across at the bust, waist, hip, and across the upper back from shoulder seam to shoulder seam. Measuring from center back to hem will give the length. Women's sleeve lengths are measured from shoulder seam to cuff. Men's sleeve length is taken from center back of the shoulder seam to the cuff. Measuring the inseam from crotch to hem gives you a pant leg length. Seems simple enough and it is - when you use the following hints.
FIRST: Measure a SIMILAR garment to the one being offered for sale that fits you well Compare them to the measurements offered by your shop owner. Don't use your actual body measurements, or you will have a VERY tight fit.
SECOND: When I say SIMILAR garment, I mean the item should be of similar style, fabric and cut to the one being offered.
THIRD: If you are of unusual size or height, then have your vintage clothing made especially for you! NOW is the time actual measurements are important. Use them for buying vintage patterns. Remember, sewing patterns were standardized circa 1958, so a size 12 sewing pattern from 1940 was cut for a bust size 30! Knowing the SIZE printed on a vintage pattern is of no help to you. Ask your seller for the actual measurements on any pre-1958 patterns you wish to purchase, if they are not already listed.
In a worldwide market, it is necessary to be able to covert measurements from inches to metric, in order to accommodate folks outside the USA. Customers can find sizing references by doing an Internet search using the key words ONLINE CONVERSIONS - CLOTHING CONVERSIONS.
I have been selling vintage clothing to discriminating customers for over 30 years. Anyone who cares enough to make their wardrobe distinct and exclusive will invest some time in their online shopping. Find your favorite era and indulge yourself in a collection you will enjoy on a daily basis for years to come.
_____________________________________________
Toinette has graciously granted me permission to reprint it here, and if any members want to transfer it to the members area, feel free. Just credit her, please.
p.s. - I took the liberty of deleting the Ruby Lane references.
xoxoxo
leisa
_________________________________________
BUYING VINTAGE CLOTHING AND SEWING PATTERNS
<A HREF="http://www.rubylane.com/shops/toinettea" target="new">TOINETTE'S VINTAGE CLOTHING - RUBY LANE</A>
If you have been smitten with fashions of the 1940's, then you have discovered an area of collecting that has an ever-growing field of buyers who wear their collection everyday. Women AND men have found that vintage styles and fabrics are a delightful way to add pleasure to everyday life. Here is a bit of history about vintage sizing and some tips to get the right fit when buying vintage clothing and sewing patterns.
Sizing for mass produced clothing for men was addressed during the Civil War due to the need for thousands of uniforms. Sizing for women's clothing was not addressed until the 1930s when a study was done by the National Bureau of Home Economics. The results were not modified and altered until 1958! Then a STANDARD was published and accepted by the industry. This was a voluntary standard, but competition in the apparel industry forced most manufactures and pattern companies to use the measurements we know today. Unfortunately, this standard is now being almost completely ignored by many design houses and manufactures.
A competent Internet seller should give you the MOST basic measurements of a garment they have listed. The way to measure a garment is to lay it flat and take the measurements straight across at the bust, waist, hip, and across the upper back from shoulder seam to shoulder seam. Measuring from center back to hem will give the length. Women's sleeve lengths are measured from shoulder seam to cuff. Men's sleeve length is taken from center back of the shoulder seam to the cuff. Measuring the inseam from crotch to hem gives you a pant leg length. Seems simple enough and it is - when you use the following hints.
FIRST: Measure a SIMILAR garment to the one being offered for sale that fits you well Compare them to the measurements offered by your shop owner. Don't use your actual body measurements, or you will have a VERY tight fit.
SECOND: When I say SIMILAR garment, I mean the item should be of similar style, fabric and cut to the one being offered.
THIRD: If you are of unusual size or height, then have your vintage clothing made especially for you! NOW is the time actual measurements are important. Use them for buying vintage patterns. Remember, sewing patterns were standardized circa 1958, so a size 12 sewing pattern from 1940 was cut for a bust size 30! Knowing the SIZE printed on a vintage pattern is of no help to you. Ask your seller for the actual measurements on any pre-1958 patterns you wish to purchase, if they are not already listed.
In a worldwide market, it is necessary to be able to covert measurements from inches to metric, in order to accommodate folks outside the USA. Customers can find sizing references by doing an Internet search using the key words ONLINE CONVERSIONS - CLOTHING CONVERSIONS.
I have been selling vintage clothing to discriminating customers for over 30 years. Anyone who cares enough to make their wardrobe distinct and exclusive will invest some time in their online shopping. Find your favorite era and indulge yourself in a collection you will enjoy on a daily basis for years to come.
_____________________________________________
