There's a lot of info I got through researching this piece that was given to me. I received no details from my family other than a guesstimate of the 1950s. The only tag, although there are a couple of marks inside that suggests another label was there, is that of the retailer, which was a high end retailer here in Pittsburgh, PA. This is the info I got: I got in touch with the owners and they did carry Chanel, that's a FACT. The woman I spoke with owned it with her family from 1970-2001. She suspected the tag was pre-70s because she did not recognize it. These other snippets are reasoning between myself and others. I contacted an appraiser who immediately said the logo was reversed on the button so that they were indeed fake. I researched vintage Chanel logo info and on some of their vintage bags the logo IS reversed ( by reversed I mean where the right C crosses the left.) Serial numbers and logos, etc...I already know everything about. New stuff is easy. I also found a reputable seller online that sold a set of vintage Chanel buttons for a high amount that had the reversed logo. This seller I believe to be reputable due to things listed and past history of items sold, (not as if he sold 95 sets of 'vintage' Chanel buttons which obviously would prove they were knockoff). I then went and Google searched Chanel buttons and replicas to see if this specific button came up and it did not. They are sewn on with the same thread used in the coat itself. There is also one sewn into the pocket. Reasoning led me to wonder why someone would replace the buttons and actually buy an extra ( I know I would but I'm OCD), and even if so wouldnt they stitch it to the lining or leave it at home in case one were to pop off. The stitching of these buttons is professional. It's not a simple cut and replace with cheap thread. They are held on very strongly. A few friends commented that sometimes retailers would remove labels and put their own inside for advertising. Then a friend asked why they would remove a Chanel label? Good point. I would suspect that it had fallen off as the retailer tag is still hanging loosely but through wear and cleaning it could have removed itself, etc..Someone shopping at this store would have had the money for the real item as opposed to purchasing another label and replacing the buttons. I wondered if someone had replaced them currently as if someone had worn it recently but as I said I couldn't find these buttons anywhere. Secondly, their are much cooler and flashier Chanel buttons on the market that are knockoff in my opinion. Reasoning took me to, 'Well if someone wanted to show it off they could get much flashier buttons for it. The craftsmanship is pristine and the tweed and quality match up with the jackets I have seen and felt that are current. Everyone who has seen this item from afar (far enough that they're not judging on the buttons showing the designer) have all commented on how beautiful it is. Not that that means anything but it is a piece and the quality is evident is what I want to convey. What do you think? Any help is HUGELY APPRECIATED as this piece has me stumped. i'm great at the current knockoff and time period but this piece has me literally at a standstill. I actually feel frustrated but then again there is not a whole lot of information to go off of. The place DID carry Chanel. Chanel DID do reversed logos on vintage buttons/bags. The coat is QUALITY.
Guesstimate Period Of Chanel Coat
- Thread starter jrfedor
- Start date
Circa Vintage Clothing
Alumni
Welcome to the forums - as you would have read in this thread, the VFG are unable to authenticate garments, so I'll leave aside the issue of whether it is an authentic Chanel coat and just address your question about the date.
I have some questions for you:
- Do you have a photo (right side up) of the coat with it's collar sitting down. This will help us see the design as it's meant to be worn.
- Can you please advise what kind of fabric the lining is made of - fabric and weave, eg silk twill, acetate taffeta, cotton poplin.
- Can you tell if the coat has been relined? Examining between the lining and the coat should help here.
- Has the lining been hand stitched or machine stitched?
- Is the coat pure wool? If you're not sure, you could try a burn test.
- It looks like the William Penn label is at the centre back - are there any other labels? Try looking down the side seams and on the front panels. Please take photos.
- Can you please confirm that it only has a half belt, just around the back, not the front (and hence, no buckle).
- How are the button holes finished? Are they bound or stitched?
Firstly, on the available evidence, I think your coat is probably '60s. It may have been relined (but if you can tell us more it will help), especially as the lining does not look very well made - I think I can see a small pleat where the seams should line up evenly.
The label looks much older than the coat, which is concerning, because it raises the possibility that it's not original or (again) it may have been relined. If it was earlier, I'd expect the label to be on one of the front panels. If someone is familiar with the label, they might be able to tell us that it was used for decades - but this is rare. The label also looks much loved, with lots of wear.
Sorry to hit you with so many questions - it's hard when all you have is a small amount of info and a bunch of photos. It's no substitute for holding it in your hands.
I have some questions for you:
- Do you have a photo (right side up) of the coat with it's collar sitting down. This will help us see the design as it's meant to be worn.
- Can you please advise what kind of fabric the lining is made of - fabric and weave, eg silk twill, acetate taffeta, cotton poplin.
- Can you tell if the coat has been relined? Examining between the lining and the coat should help here.
- Has the lining been hand stitched or machine stitched?
- Is the coat pure wool? If you're not sure, you could try a burn test.
- It looks like the William Penn label is at the centre back - are there any other labels? Try looking down the side seams and on the front panels. Please take photos.
- Can you please confirm that it only has a half belt, just around the back, not the front (and hence, no buckle).
- How are the button holes finished? Are they bound or stitched?
Firstly, on the available evidence, I think your coat is probably '60s. It may have been relined (but if you can tell us more it will help), especially as the lining does not look very well made - I think I can see a small pleat where the seams should line up evenly.
The label looks much older than the coat, which is concerning, because it raises the possibility that it's not original or (again) it may have been relined. If it was earlier, I'd expect the label to be on one of the front panels. If someone is familiar with the label, they might be able to tell us that it was used for decades - but this is rare. The label also looks much loved, with lots of wear.
Sorry to hit you with so many questions - it's hard when all you have is a small amount of info and a bunch of photos. It's no substitute for holding it in your hands.