Help Dating Mid-19th Century Bodice Piece

nansbag

Registered Guest
Hi everyone! I recently acquired this antique bodice piece and was wondering whether anyone could offer me any advice about dating it? It was dated as late Victorian/Edwardian, but it looks to me more like mid-19th Century, possibly 1840s or 50s given the pleating at the front and pointed waist. The National Trust holds a similar looking one dating from 1850.

Front.jpgBack.jpg Lining.jpgUnpickedSleeves.jpgUnpickedWaistband.jpgSuspiciousHook.jpg


Looking at the armholes, it appears that the bodice was completed at one point and has sadly had the sleeves subsequently removed. It also looks like an attached skirt waistband may have also been unpicked, and there is a hook with no corresponding eye sewn to the lining on the right side which could have possibly been used to anchor a skirt? The stitching across the pleats on the left side has also come loose on the left side, revealing wool?? batting across the chest. I would guess that someone probably started taking the dress apart to reuse the fabric, or else it was taken apart by someone for study and the other pieces lost.
Having burnt small samples of both the blue fabric and lining, my best guess is that it's wool lined with some kind of treated linen. It looks like it is hand sewn, but I'm not certain. The bodice closes at the front with hooks and eyes and is boned under each armhole and up the front under the row of eyes.

I've done a bit of research (and a lot of guesswork) but I still could be way off, so I was wondering what people with more experience thought! Thank you so much for sharing your expertise - I really appreciate it.
 
Looks like a type of fan front bodice from the 1850s, maybe early 1860s. 1840s bodices tend to close in the back and the waistline is set at the natural waist or slightly lower. The waistline raised to slightly higher than the natural waist by the 1860s. This bodice looks like it would sit at or slightly higher than the natural waist. The upper pleats look more set than ... well, poufy as many fan fronts are - at least from the photo. Looks like a more tailored fit. Padding the chest area was fairly common at that time. It helped to keep the area smooth since the bodice was fit so exactly. The "fan" can cause the upper chest area to be a bit baggy.

There are others who are much more well-versed in this era than I am, and I am anxious to hear their thoughts as well. :)
 
I probably would have said 50s as well, so it's good to know I'm on the right track there. Although it's short in the waist I would be hesitant to place it much later because - to my knowledge - pointed waists like this had gone out of fashion.
The upper pleats look more set than ... well, poufy as many fan fronts are - at least from the photo. Looks like a more tailored fit.
I wasn't even sure this was a fan front when I first saw because it's just so different from most of the other's I've seen, which are gathered at the waist not folded over neatly at the shoulders as this one is. The only similar one I've come across is held by the National Trust and linked in my original description.

Thank you so much for sharing your thoughts! :)
 
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