Help dating silk dress, and is this shantung, Thai silk?

[Jen S]

I have this navy blue silk dress (burn test, plus it feels like silk) lined in rayon, the label has been cut, back metal zipper. (Sorry it’s not pressed.) I’m thinking late 50s or early 60s, but I’m not sure. Also, is the fabric correctly described as Shantung or Thai silk? I feel like Shantung is maybe heavier in texture, wheras this is quite thin. Or maybe it’s just raw silk? But I somehow don’t think that raw silk was a thing until the 70s...? Thanks for any input.

 

[Jonathan]

I would call it shantung. It's also called wild silk because the cocoons of silk moths are used after the moth has vacated its cocoon, whereas the smooth silk is made from cocoons where the worm is still alive inside (it's boiled to death, so that it doesn't damage the cocoon as it exits.) "Thai' silk is, I think dupioni, which is like shantung but has more lustre - I believe it has something to do with what the moth worms are fed...

 

[Jen S]

Thanks. Now that you describe it, I think I know exactly what Thai silk looks like, it’s got more luster and is almost burnished looking by comparison. So I will call this Shantung. Appreciate it!

Any thoughts on the dating?

 

[Jonathan]

It looks 1960-63 to me.

 

[Jen S]

Thanks!