Help dating this (thick) black velvet coat..1940s? 50?and what is the term for these sleeves

laurenm

laurenm

Registered Guest
Hi everyone, this coat is baffling me. The label is so worn....what i can make out is "Made in U.S." and S....A....something something.....T?....maybe Staats?....theres something like "Pal" or "Dal" on one side of the label. and then underneath.....Established or something like that....

The fabric is a VERY thick velvet looking almost plush faux fur pile...then i wondered if it was really close sheared beaver??
Also wondering what sleeve type this is?


PS...my camera is being really wonky so pardon the poor photos...the coat is actually a very lusterous deep black shade.

Any help much appreciated.
Thanks,,
Lauren
 

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Hi Lauren,

I know the plush fabric you mean, I think it could be made of cotton or wool. Too early for rayon. I do think it's meant to be a kind of faux fur.

It will be easier to tell the story of your coat if it's being worn but my feeling is that it could be earlier: perhaps late 'teens or early '20s.

The cuffs may turn back and the buttons may have been moved over - originally the style could have been a double breasted. But it's hard to tell. Can you provide a little more information please?
  • what is lining made of?
  • Is there a button under the collar (or sign that there was one)?
  • What is the measurement from the shoulder to the belt? Can you tell if the belt loops are original?
  • Can you tell us anything about the hem or seams?
 
Hmmm....yes....now I can see it as possibly 'faux seal'?

1. lining is a heavier more rough texture (almost like raw silk) than acetate.
2. Theres a missing button about 2.5 inches below the collar and a elastic loop for it on the other side of the coat.
3. Measurement from shoulder to belt is @ 15 inches....there are no belt loops....I think the belt might be altered....it's definitely the same fabric but it's kind of loosely stitched on in a couple places onto the back of the coat. There is a snap and hook and eye closure for it when it does up.
4. Not sure exactly to describe the hem and seams....the outer fabric is 'turned up' so it goes up on the inside of the garment and is stiched onto the lining
 
I am on the same track as Nicole and Jonathan. Late 'Teens. I place it there because of the loose and full cut, and the belt which looks to be placed above the natural waistline.

Without handling it, I cannot tell for sure what to call the fabric, but it looks a bit like what used to be referred to as "plush".
 
I concur with Rue de la Paix on the name of the fabric an Johnathan on the era. I went swimming on the net because I do not have any vintage clothing catalogs from the 1900s but searched that venue and found a few interesting pages. Alas the description in NOT clear because I thought that might help with the styling description. But the images are clear and it seems like
1900 coats2.jpg
1900s coats.jpg
that 'belted' treatment was a popular styling element.
 
Wow, thanks everyone. I'm going to try to get my daughter to snap a few shots of me later this morning.....but boy the bottom right photo in the top picture looks almost identical to mine except for the pockets! I guess the 'slimming' 'flattering' cuts were not the rage....au contraire!
 
Lauren, I think after the extreme wasp waists of the earlier period, people were happy to embrace a different silhoutte - it's usually the way with fashion. We can only look at these distant styles with modern eyes, with a different idea of what constitutes "attractive".
 
It's true....it's all so relative. Other thing is fabric....I've been looking for a down park for the impending Canadian brrrrr and there is a tradeoff bw nice close fitting light material and loose enough cut to give that pocket of air around your body to insulate and move freely. Back in the day, other than fur, fabrics didn't allow so much for light and non-bulky when it came to warmth. My mom grew up in Northern Ontario in the 30s and she describes the wool stockings and all the underwear and layers as quite the ordeal! probably itchy too.
 
Yes, very much all of your help has been great. Now I'm trying to imagine the woman who owned this beautiful thing walking around in my neighbourhood as I live in an old Victorian house. I'm thinking I'll use "maternity coat' as a keyword as I have been thinking what a great coat this would have been for my pregnancies.
 
Found another great catalog scan .. uploaded the coat on the far right indicates in the descriptions that the fabric is "seal plush"
coaTS.jpg
 
Thanks so much Deco....when I search now for similar items using 'seal plush" I get way more hits.
 
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