Help determining Cup size of vintage bras, bustiers etc.

laurenm

laurenm

Registered Guest
Hi Everyone,
I'm listing a bunch of bustiers, girdles, bras etc at the moment and have a question regarding cup size. I've noticed that sometimes the vintage sizing tag doesn't always seem to line up with my 'eyes guestimate' just sizing up the article. Is there a rule of thumb to use or simple way to determine or describe cup size?
Thanks for any help
Lauren
 
Simply measure them! Best way is to measure the underbust, fastened and flat - both unstretched and stretched.
Then stuff the cups with tissue and put on a mannequin. Measure over the bust line. The difference between these two measurements gives the cup size as you would at a bra fitting.
Due to the different styles found in bras over the decades it can also be useful to measure the interior cup from the side of cup seam, over the point to the opposite side of that cup. You may be able to find a chart for the individual cup measurements like this online for comparision. I'd recommend looking at a specialist lingerie website that perhaps does custom order rather than anything mainstream.
 
Thanks Melanie. I got a bit confused because of that very 'variation' issue. Was looking at a few 'modern' websites (Victorias Secret for example) and they have one measure while wearing a 'lightly padded bra' going above the breasts and then across etc....I have tried on some vintage bras that were marked with a cup size I wouldn't normally wear that fit etc.....I got thinking about the increase in average weight of people over time and wondered if this has changed the standard sizing of bras? With more weight around the torso does this affect the whole sizing thing.....I'm probably overthinking this. I like the ideaa of the interior cup measurements.
 
luckily bra sizing (as far as I know) has always gone on a physical measurement of the underbust in metric or imperial plus the cup size which is again a calculation of physical measurements, rather than a obtuse 'dress' size that varies from one brand to another.
The only area for variance I can see is if the difference of underbust to bust measurement was assigned different margins per cup size over the years.
 
The biggest difference I have noticed between modern and vintage bra sizing is not the cup size (or ratio to the underbust measurement), but the significant difference in the shape of the cups. This can create a totally different feel when a vintage bra of the same stated size is worn, as compared to a modern bra. Which, it is when worn, may feel like a size difference. Just my experience, FWIW. :)
 
Thanks everyone.....I bumped into this old thread that has some interesting observations: https://forums.vintagefashionguild.org/threads/vintage-bra-sizing.35169/
What I'm thinking is that if the subtracted difference bw a band size measurement and over the 'bust' measurement gives cup size and if 'modern' women carry more body weight and/or are more muscular in general, then 'extra' weight/muscle along the sides of the breasts and back would get calculated into cup size . The band 'area' lower down might not have so much extra padding.....Oh my, I'm starting to sound like a mathematical problem in a text book. Also wondering about how the closeness of the cups to each other affects sizing....I notice that as I am fairly 'big boned' in the ribs and back area and find that a bra from say the 80s in 'my size' with underwire will have such a small area between the cups that I can't wear it. Obviously women vary greatly in the bust (as elsewhere) so wondering if, going back to Melanies recommendation, it's best to list the given cup size followed by a breakdown of the cup by width and height and give space bw cup measurements etc?
 
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