Help Identifying Brooch

Morgan J Brittingham

Morgan J Brittingham

VFG Member
Hello friends! I need help!

I am recreating Edith Head’s black velvet mermaid gown, designed for Rosemary Clooney to wear in the 1954 film “White Christmas” Carousel Club scene. The gown will become part of the Rosemary Clooney House exhibition, so I’m wanting to make it as accurate as possible, including the enormous brooch that was added at the last minute! All we have are images from the movie- all other info has been lost to time. Any ideas? I have tried searching the usual suspects - Joseff of Hollywood, Eisenberg, Swavarski, costume jewelry brands from the 50s, etc - to no avail.

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Morgan,

What a great project. The design of the brooch looks most like an Eisenberg, and a little bit like a Mazer but it's really large! I don't recognize it.

The size reminds me of this Staret brooch - which is very large - but the design is very different.

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Are there any photos of the brooch closer?
 
Hello, Morgan,

So down the rabbit hole I went! I'm sure you've already done (and much more!) the brief research I did, and it's a wonderful project. I feel sure they spared no expense on the clothing and jewelry, so it would be something high-end. And the articles I read said that they wanted that brooch to be a big reveal when Clooney turned around--making it a real "wowza".

My guess is that it could be either an actual brooch or a piece that is sewn onto the dress, much like Eisenberg did prior to getting into jewelry alone. The thing is huge--maybe 5 inches? It seems it might be difficult to wear and move in, unless it was sewn on.

I saw the following on a blog about the clothing in White Christmas, an answer to somebody's questions about whether or not Edith designed the jewelry (I now see the author's name or email did not transcribe--I'll go back and grab it):
Kimberly Truhler said...

Hi Marilyn! I don't think Edith designed the jewelry, no. I've visited the Paramount archive and they still have quite a bit of jewelry from the Golden Years of the studio. I understand your fascination. Unfortunately, I can't say for sure the source of the jewelry for WHITE CHRISTMAS, though I may be able to find out if needed. :)

JANUARY 11, 2018 AT 5:12 PM
 
I've got the huge book that was published a few years ago on so many of Edith Head's work for films. I wonder if there would be a clear photo of this brooch in that book. Maybe this evening I will peruse! In the photo that you posted in this forum, Morgan, it's so hard to tell what that huge brooch really looks like. I wish we could get a clear photo of it. Do you think it's some kind of floral motif? What a fabulous project! I love to watch White Christmas for all of the wonderful fashions that were created for the film.
 
I love all the sleuthing! Yessss!! Here’s what I have learned from interviews of Edith Head, Rosemary Clooney, archivists, and articles about the film:

- The brooch matches her earrings, which makes me think this must have been a brooch or fur clip rather than appliqué.
- Clooney and Head both described the pin as having been attached last minute to break up the gown, so I’m not certain it would have been preordered specially for the film. Likely grabbed from the costume department, perhaps reused from another film.

The game is on, Watson!
 
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I don't think this helps but I had to try! I "Zoomed" in and then "Captured" this. It doesn't look like the earrings match the brooch. I see pearls or faux pearls in the earrings, and I see gold tone metal and blue stones in the brooch - and maybe rhinestones but we really can't see any detail. I wish we could get a good (sharp) close photo of it.




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The film was distributed in 1954 so the brooch might be a brooch or it might be a very large Retro styled late '40s fur clip.

Maybe someone (Janine) is going to have to watch it and capture photos of the earrings and brooch from the film!



 
I did look for something in the Edith Head book last night. Only a small discussion of the designs for White Christmas and one front photo of the black dress. Just my opinion, but if it were me in your position, I wouldn't worry too much about the maker of the brooch as you will probably never know who did make it. It could have been repurposed from an old costume in the department just as you said and that is my guess, too. I would just look for something that would resemble as closely as you can tell from the photo and use it. You should be able to find a large brooch or dress clip that will work fine. Sometimes it's very difficult with jewelry worn in films to know who the credit would need to go to. With Joseff of Hollywood, the wonderful book that was written a good number of years ago about his pieces that were used in films (and they were always rented out to the studios so he could keep them in his inventory) documents the films that he designed the jewelry or provided the pieces. Whenever I see some gorgeous jewelry in an old film and I wonder if it was made by Joseff, I pull out that book and look it up! Comes in handy, for sure. Good luck on this wonderful project and keep us posted as to what you finally use for the adornment of THE DRESS!! I loved seeing Rosemary Clooney in that dress!
 
BonniesVintageClothesLine said:
I did look for something in the Edith Head book last night. Only a small discussion of the designs for White Christmas and one front photo of the black dress. Just my opinion, but if it were me in your position, I wouldn't worry too much about the maker of the brooch as you will probably never know who did make it. It could have been repurposed from an old costume in the department just as you said and that is my guess, too. I would just look for something that would resemble as closely as you can tell from the photo and use it. You should be able to find a large brooch or dress clip that will work fine. Sometimes it's very difficult with jewelry worn in films to know who the credit would need to go to. With Joseff of Hollywood, the wonderful book that was written a good number of years ago about his pieces that were used in films (and they were always rented out to the studios so he could keep them in his inventory) documents the films that he designed the jewelry or provided the pieces. Whenever I see some gorgeous jewelry in an old film and I wonder if it was made by Joseff, I pull out that book and look it up! Comes in handy, for sure. Good luck on this wonderful project and keep us posted as to what you finally use for the adornment of THE DRESS!! I loved seeing Rosemary Clooney in that dress!
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Bonnie, I agree that Morgan should be able to find a large brooch or fur clip for this project. I have the Joseph of Hollywood book, too, and there are several pieces attributed to Joseph of Hollywood in the book that were/are actually pieces by other makers - including a piece of fine jewelry. I will have to find my notes or look through the book again. (It's been years.)
 
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